May 13, 2008 – I am working with my 2 year old mini and she has come a long way from where she was last year.
She has a halter on now and we can clip on her lead line, but how do we get her to lead.
She takes a couple of steps with some coaxing, but nothing to say is an accomplishment.
The Horse Girl Says:
One suggestion: Put a lead in a figure eight around her rump, through the halter, so that when you pull, she feels it on her hind end.
Use sparingly, and praise her when she moves forward, so that when she moves forward, she has a loose rein.
When she stops, pull on the lead.
The trick is to have the correction applied when she does what you don't want, and praise and no correction when she does what you want.
Start small, that is, build each lesson off of the one before, each one ending on a high note of moving forward.
You say she does a couple of steps already, so you are on the way.
May 12, 2008 – I'm about to buy a new horse.
How important is conformation?
I hear people talking about it and I'm worried that I don't know enough about how to see good conformation.
The Horse Girl Says:
You didn't say what you were going to do with the horse.
Conformation is important for horses that are going to perform a job where their structure may affect their ability to get that job done.
Winning halter show classes or running in races are two jobs that come to mind.
A horse that doesn't "fit" the breed type sufficiently will not do well at halter classes, and poor conformation can affect a horse's ability to run fast.
Think about the job you want the horse to do and engage experts of different levels to help you depending on that job.
So, if you're looking for a backyard horse whose only job is to provide lots of companionship and fun trail rides for your children on occasion, then I would say the horse's disposition matters far more than conformation.
On the other hand, if you're looking to set the Arabian show world on fire, then detailed knowledge of the "jibbah" (slight bulge between the eyes) may be important, so you want to read up and talk to experts based on your need.
Good luck and remember to get a veterinarian to properly "vet" the horse before buying it to allay concerns about its overall health and ability to perform for your purpose.
May 10, 2008 – How important is it that a horse learn how to change leads?
My horse refuses to go in his left lead.
The Horse Girl Says:
Some horses are indeed very one sided, as you have already noticed.
Horses that only use one lead are not equally balanced in terms of strength, so having a horse that can use either lead at will, or on command, is better overall.
Work with a horse trainer to learn how you can better balance your horse through how you ride.
You can actually "exercise" your horse into better symmetry and strength, assuming that the cause of the imbalance is habit and not the result of a health issue.
May 9, 2008 – I've noticed that whenever my horse is near me, he puts his head on top of mine and pulls me into him almost like a hug.
Is this an aggressive type of body language?
The Horse Girl Says:
You're right to have the notion this could be an "invasion" of space by your horse on you.
The trouble is, it could also, indeed, be a sign of affection and you don't want to respond in the wrong manner.
Of course, the two are not mutually exclusive.
If it is an aggressive sign, then there will be other aggressive signs that go with it, such as disobedience of commands, shouldering you aside, etc. (horses are inventive in showing their views on status).
You can receive and reciprocate on signs of affection, but you can also demand that your space needs be honored.
And you SHOULD do that, because your horse can hurt you otherwise.
May 8, 2008 – What does "as is" mean when buying a horse?
The Horse Girl Says:
A seller who puts that phrase in a sale contract intends that a buyer who buys a horse "as is" takes the horse free of any of the warranties that might otherwise accompany the sale of a horse, such as the warranty of merchantability or the warranty of fitness for a particular purpose.
A horse is a "good" under the commercial laws of the United States, and so there are certain warranties that otherwise are included in every sale.
You can imagine why a seller might want to disclaim such warranties.
For any sale of a horse, it is a good idea to consult a lawyer on the meaning of the various terms, and to have a written contract that has terms that you understand before signing.
A little prevention on the front end can save you much time, effort, aggravation, and money.
May 7, 2008 – Should I get a horse that "cribs"? What is cribbing anyway?
The Horse Girl Says:
Cribbing is a learned behavior and habit that horses take up involving grabbing onto something with their front teeth and sucking in air withan audible grunt.
The behavior releases endorphins, and so once a horse has learned to do this, the habit is almost impossible to eradicate.
Horses can pick it up the habit from other horses and from spending lots of time being "stall-bound" (boredom being the cause), such as with show horses.
The habit is particularly offensive in barns where horses are stalled because horses will, in the course of grabbing hold, splinter and eat the wood just as if giant rats where gnawing on the wood surfaces.
There is also some evidence that cribbers suffer more from air colic and other digestive ailments.
(No surprise there.)
Owners can get a "cribbing collar" that fits around the horse's head and neck and prevents him from setting his jaw such that he can suck in the air.
These methods can stop most cribbers, but really determined cribbers require the collar to be made rather tight and you may find yourself uncomfortable adjusting it that severely.
However, cribbing itself does not affect a horse's ability to perform his horsy tasks, and so, getting a horse that cribs is a judgment call for you.
Some people refuse, on principle, to get cribbers.
I, myself, feel that stance is a bit too draconian, because the horse can still be useful and happy even if he does crib.
It helps if the horse is often out in pasture, will not be shut up or confined for long periods of time, and has plenty of grazing grass or hay to keep him occupied.
May 6, 2008 – I want to get into thoroughbred racing. How do I do that?
The Horse Girl Says:
The Thoroughbred Owners and Breeders Association (TOBA) actually has seminars devoted to bringing new owners into the fold.
They will help you master the lingo and the pitfalls of thoroughbred ownership.
I suggest going to the following Website to learn more about it:
http://www.toba.org
Congratulations!
One thing I am willing to bet on is that you will HAVE FUN!!!
May 5, 2008 – I have had two good weeks riding a new horse.
I had the vet give her an injection for worms.
This caused some soreness on her neck.
When I rode her the following two days she was a different horse. I thought she was going to throw me.
She seemed to really be angry. I was afraid. Lost my confidence.
I spent some time today just being with her,rubbing her, feeding her... but still was a bit timid. I have to get back on and make her behave with me on her back. (I had two of the men at the stable ride her for exercise and so I could watch her with them. She seemed ok.)
Any advice?
How can I tell when she is actually a danger to me and when I just need to press on and ride?
How can I safely develop confidence for both of us again?
The Horse Girl Says:
What happened to you is more common than you might think, and the answer is a bit complicated, so bear with.
First, let me try to assuage one fear.
You say that your horse seemed angry or mad at you after having the shots, but unless you are telling me that, right after the shots, the horse laid her ears flat to her head and then tried take a bite out of your arm, or immediately tried to whirl around and plant two hind hooves on your backside, I doubt that she was "mad" at you.
Horses tend to immediately and pointedly display feelings of anger and irritation, and such displays are hard to miss, and hard to avoid (getting bitten or kicked, that is.)
She may, however, have been sore after the shots, been unable to comply with your directions during the ride, and may have resented your efforts to push her into behavior that she was not physically up to performing.
Her efforts at resistance made you fearful.
And, for sure, she sensed when you were fearful right away.
This can't be said often enough: Horses absolutely know immediately through their SUPER EXTRA SENSORY PERCEPTION right away when their riders are fearful.
Knowing that you are fearful, says to her, that you are no longer the dominant member of the herd, and therefore, you are no longer in charge, and therefore, your directions no longer need to be followed.
You are not wrong to be cautious around a horse with this attitude because this situation obviously is very dangerous.
So how do you get out of this mess?
My suggestion is that you retain a horse trainer who can work with you to both build your confidence and teach you how to regain primary status, starting with ground work with your horse.
There are a number of small, non punitive ways, too many to list here, that you can show your horse on the ground that you are in charge.
As you gain confidence, you can start riding in controlled circumstances, such as in a round pen or small ring, under direction of the trainer.
The goal will be to build your confidence and to re-train the horse so you are "back on top" so to speak.
Horses are philosophical about such demotions because it happens all the time in a herd.
But it won't stop her from trying again from time to time to see if you still mean what you say, and so, you do need to know what to do and when to do it.
That being said, if you are still fearful, or if the horse's resistance continues in a prolonged manner, a good rider knows when to call it quits.
Some horses are not meant to be ridden by some riders, and if a horse really has your number, you need to accept that gracefully and move on to a different, better suited horse.
Polo player that I am, I had to do this last summer for a horse that had a world beater trick for showing his dominance:
While at a dead run, he bucked while dropping a shoulder, followed by reversal of direction (still at a dead run).
Folks say I hit the ground like a pile driver (of course, not that I could recall).
For a horse trainer in your area, one site to try is:
http://naturalhorsetraining.com
or use QueryHorse to find more resources on this.
Good luck and be safe.
May 3, 2008 – How important is it to fit my saddle to my horse?
I've used the same saddle for years now and have not had any problems no matter which horse I'm riding. From, Saddle Fit.
The Horse Girl Says:
Dear Saddle Fit:
It sounds as if two things are happening: first, you're not riding hard enough or long enough to cause a problem obvious to you on the horses you regularly ride; and second, your saddle started with enough basics to squeak by.
That being said, (don't you love lawyers) appropriate saddle fitting is VERY IMPORTANT to your horse's health, and saddles do deteriorate over time, depending on how well they're made and how they're stored and maintained.
DO NOT wait until your horse has sores over his withers or bruises on his back, or starts a behavioral death-spiral that could be detrimental to YOUR health to discover you have a problem — this is one area where a proactive approach is definitely worth it.
You can see if your saddle "fits" the primary horse you ride by consulting a saddle fitter, or you can take your horse's measurements and seek advice that way too.
I am not advocating that you buy a new saddle, just that you reassure yourself that your saddle, indeed, fits your horse.
You and your horse will sleep better at night, and ride better too.
May 2, 2008 – I'm thinking of leasing my horse to a friend of mine where they pay the board costs.
I don't really need any paperwork for that, do I?
The Horse Girl Says:
Many people do this, which is the so called "free lease" situation, informally and without repercussions.
However, a good percentage of these situations also end in misery, despair, hatred, horse theft, and legal intervention.
Which will you be?
Well unfortunately, you can't tell that before hand, so the best thing is to have a lease drawn up that spells out the obligations of the parties.
It must also fix an end-date to the lease.
This is especially important if the lease goes on for a long period of time so that the person taking care of the horse doesn't get the idea that you have abandoned the horse to them.
This is an area where there is no form lease available to cover your situation and there are many issues involved that a regular lawyer will not know about.
So in this case, finding an equine attorney in your area is recommended.
May 1, 2008 – I can't catch my horse in the pasture.
He runs away from me, and even though people have told me that if I just keep after him he will stop sometime, he doesn't, and I go around and around until I quit.
What can I do?
From, Disgusted.
The Horse Girl Says:
Dear Disgusted:
If you absolutely must catch him on any particular occasion, delay feeding and then go out there with grain in a bucket.
But obviously that only works with prior planning, and you need to have the horse not run away when you approach.
There is a technique, alluded to already it sounds like, that plays upon the horse's natural instinct in herd situations, where you impose yourself as the dominant herd member (evidenced by "the chase") who is to be followed (the "join up").
This works better in a round pen situation.
It might be worth engaging a horse trainer who can show you the technique in person.
The "chase" isn't so much a matter of running after the horse, as it is how you walk after him determinedly, using a particular stance and body language, and watching his reactions and eye contact.
Though I am not a horse trainer, I modestly assert that I have this technique nailed and can usually catch most horses even where their owners have given up in despair — it works.
Get someone to show you how.
April 30, 2008 – Surely with the price of hay being so high, there must be a way that I can economize and find a low priced hay that still works.
Hay is hay, isn't it?
The Horse Girl Says:
Unfortunately not.
Especially not with horses.
Feeding junk hay is a fast ticket to colic, food poisoning, malnutrition, and obviously, pain followed by death for your horse.
Good hay is worth every penny, even at today's prices.
April 29, 2008 – Should I turn my older horse out for the winter or is it better to keep him in work?
The Horse Girl Says:
My experience is that older horses benefit from being in work and in a stall plus turnout environment.
They manage that better than being turned out for long periods.
The problem with turning a horse out for a long period is that older horses lose condition faster than younger ones (funny it works that way in people too) and it's harder to get them back into shape.
A little work constantly is the best way to keep your horse young. That and great hay.
April 28, 2008 – Should I ever reprimand my horse?
The Horse Girl Says:
Absolutely, but only as needed.
Because I know this answer is guaranteed to aggravate one and all, let me expand a bit in substance, but not in content.
Horses may "misbehave" from the rider's point of view at any time.
Sometimes, the reason for the behavior is fear, and in that case, a reprimand is likely to cause more, rather than less, fear.
Obviously, this is not the lesson you want your horse to learn.
At other times, the horse may not know what you're asking it to do; and again, a reprimand at that moment will utterly shut down the lines of communication.
Of course, sometimes, the horse knows well enough what he should be doing, and is instead testing you to see what you will do if he chooses not to do it.
Correction, not reprimand, is the first response for this state of affairs.
Finally, there will come a day when nothing beats a firm reprimand, which can be a strong voice as well as a whack with a crop, and which is not to be construed as a beating of a horse.
Keep in mind that the correction you typically apply falls short of the draconian responses of the boss mare in the herd, and so, too light a response at this moment may not teach anything at all.
As you can tell from this answer, experience, judgment, and lack of fear are needed in the application of good reprimands.
All this begs the question: WHY do you need to reprimand a horse?
Keep in mind: you're dealing with an animal that is much more massive and powerful than you.
He MUST behave or your safety and that of others can be in jeopardy.
Horses are always testing other horses in a herd or their rider when under saddle.
This means you're ALWAYS training your horse.
That training can be reinforcing good behavior and dissuading bad, or can allow a lack of correction, which trains your horse that "anything goes" and he's in charge.
Or, to quote Xenophon, in "The Art of Horsemanship", ".....a disobedient horse is not only useless, but he often plays the part of a very traitor."
(Xenophon was an ancient Greek general whose treatise on horsemanship, from 400 B.C., remains relevant today)
April 26, 2008 – I'm thinking of boarding my horse at a stable that wants to make me sign a form saying I will indemnify the stable for any costs or liability for any cause whatsoever.
Should I sign this form?
The Horse Girl Says:
Without knowing more particulars, I'm not able to render legal advice.
This is a job for your lawyer after you have shown her the form, and talked over all the details.
The downside of signing such a form without such legal advice is that you may, in fact, end up responsible for all costs or liability for any cause whatsoever.
Get proper legal advice!
April 25, 2008 – Should a horse that has colic be walked?
The Horse Girl Says:
Walking definitely helps the horse's digestive system process its contents, and so, if the colic is an impending impaction in the horse's guts, then walking will certainly help.
However, colic has many more causes than just an impaction.
So when in doubt in such circumstances, nothing beats the veterinarian's advice, which, of course, means that you have called the vet immediately to check your horse, rather than turning to the Horse Girl for advice on such a pressing issue.
April 24, 2008 – When going up or down hills, how far forward or back should I be leaning?
The Horse Girl Says:
You shouldn't actually lean, per se.
In reality, you want to stay vertical while sitting over the horse's center of gravity (know proper saddle positioning).
When going uphill, you will look as if you're leaning forward compared to the horse's body and the reverse is true going downhill.
Leaning much beyond the vertical will actually put additional strain on your horse.
If in doubt as to what is vertical when on a hill, look at trees that may be around you — most will generally tend to grow straight up.
Those riders frequently riding on mountain sides above the tree line may want to carry a level or plumb bob (as well as oxygen, depending on the altitude.)
April 23, 2008 – How dangerous is jumping?
The Horse Girl Says:
Jumping doesn't have to be dangerous.
Falling is, however.
Because the likelihood of falling increases the more you jump, well, you do the math.
But in and of itself, any one particular jump's index of dangerousness depends on the size of the jump, the speed approaching the jump, the training of the horse and rider, and the footing conditions fore and aft.
The thing that gives jumping a bad rap is that when you fall off, sometimes you come into contact head first with a jump. The jump tends to win those arguments.
I must warn you that my advice about danger is suspect however, because I think polo is safe.
April 22, 2008 – What is a martingale?
The Horse Girl Says:
A martingale is an article of tack the purpose of which is to prevent the horse from raising his head too far, and say, break his rider's nose while riding.
It is commonly used by riders who also seek a training component to their riding.
A "standing" martingale hooks onto the noseband of the bridle, whereas a "running" martingale hooks onto the reins, thus "running" up and down depending on the rider's hold on the reins.
Obviously a "running" martingale needs more expertise on the part of the rider to achieve desired effects.
What the desired effects are depends on the situation.
And that is a question for another day.
April 21, 2008 – What, exactly, is a split lease and how does it work?
The Horse Girl Says:
A split lease is a common arrangement in the horse world where the owner of a horse decides to defray costs by allowing another person or persons to ride or use the horse in return for consideration, commonly either by splitting board payments and veterinary costs, or by providing labor, such as by cleaning stalls, and so forth.
The more expensive the horse is, the more advisable it is to formalize this arrangement in writing and with legal assistance.
Common trouble spots concern issues such as: ending dates, insurance coverage, liability protection, care issues, and usage hierarchies.
A horse is a "good" under the Uniform Commercial Code, and so the protections of the law concern its use.
Informality is fine if you do not care what happens to your horse, but, then, that state of affairs in my experience rarely applies to horse owners!
April 19, 2008 – If I gallop my horse occasionally, will that make him want to run all the time?
The Horse Girl Says:
That depends on the horse. Horses like to run, but some are lazy. Not unlike some people I know.
April 18, 2008 – How can I tell when my horse needs new shoes?
The Horse Girl Says:
Figure every five to six weeks as a bench mark when the horse is in work.
If you're tempted to save money by stretching that length more than a week or so, know that you may be endangering your horse's soundness or conditioning.
Barefoot horses might be able to go a bit longer if they're working and wearing the hoof down.
But if they're just in a pasture growing their feet, then to keep soundness you'll have to book regular appointments with your farrier to keep on top of the situation.
Describing the look of "too long feet" requires an opus magnus (work of great magnitude) in and of itself, and as a lawyer, I couldn't possibly write that without both expert assistance and an up-front retainer.
April 17, 2008 – When should I use a rear cinch?
The Horse Girl Says:
You should use one when roping, or going up or downhill in a western saddle.
English saddles do not have a "rear" cinching capability, but as a polo player
I use a safety device called an "overgirth" which fulfills much the same function, which is to say, keeping my fragile body safely atop an upright saddle that has just lost its main fastener.
April 16, 2008 – Is it easier for a horse to trot or canter uphill than walk?
The Horse Girl Says:
Yes.
A horse prefers to trot or run up a hill, especially if he's hauling your carcass up the hill on his back.
April 15, 2008 – Is a flat-out gallop bad for a horse?
The Horse Girl Says:
No! — Here's the disclaimer: Flat-out gallops are ok as long as the horse is in condition (that is, he has not been stall-bound for an extended period of time), the Elysian Fields beckon (that is attorney shorthand for a nice smooth level field with no potholes or stones), and you have a well secured saddle and functioning tack.
Remember, the horse's speed has kept him alive and off the lion's lunch menu for millennia.
April 14, 2008 – Are cruppers uncomfortable for the horse?
The Horse Girl Says:
That depends entirely on the attention to detail of the human being fastening the device to the horse.
All I can say there is, when adjusting the crupper, put yourself in the horse's place.
But remember the crupper's function is to prevent the saddle from sliding too far forward on those horses that have no withers.
(All you quarter horse people out there know who I'm talking about...)
