December 31, 2009 – TOWING ON SLIPPERY ROADS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
With roads sometimes slippery in the winter, do I need stronger brakes when towing my horses at this time of year?
No.
In fact, you want to apply LESS brake on slippery roads or you'll go into a skid.
On dry roads, you can drive at the same speeds during any season, and that should still mean being cautious and driving more slowly than when you aren't towing a trailer.
If the roads are slippery, it's even more important to reduce your speed significantly more.
Regardless of the season or road conditions, you NEVER want to lose control of your vehicle and trailer.
And the most effective way to keep control is by slowing down and paying attention to road conditions and the vehicles around you.
If the roads are too slippery for even slow driving, then you should reschedule your trip for another day when conditions are better.
Frankly, unless I found myself unexpectedly stranded with my horse away from his barn with no place to wait out the weather, I wouldn't put us into any situation that required me to tow a trailer.
It's never worth risking the lives of any humans or your horses — stay home if it's not safe to drive.
December 30, 2009 – RIDING IN FREEZING WEATHER
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it ok to ride your horse when it's freezing outside?
Yes, it is.
But, you do want to take some precautions.
First, because it's colder, you want to properly assess the ground conditions.
When the temperatures are near or below freezing, you don't want to canter or gallop on frozen ground — that will be hard on your horse's feet and legs just as human runners often develop shin splints running on concrete surfaces.
Also, snow and ice are slippery and present another danger to horse and rider that are moving too fast.
You not only could have trouble turning and stopping, you both could fall and break a bone or three.
Second, the air is much colder — you need to dress warmly to avoid hypothermia.
And you don't want to overwork your horse so that he sweats or has trouble breathing cold air (remember the chest pains you experienced when running in the winter as a child?)
Walking and trotting are better gaits, won't overdo it for the two of you, and will help reduce the aforementioned slippery footing issues.
Also, don't ride your horse with a sheet or blanket because it will be much easier to get him sweaty, and then chilled when you remove it — tack up normally and without any warm covering on your horse.
He generates a lot of heat when working and should be fine during your ride if he's in good health.
However, when you both return to the barn at the end of your ride and remove his tack, putting a cooler on him for an hour or so to keep him warm while he dries off is a good idea.
Just remember to remove the cooler when he's dry and you're leaving the barn.
Third, don't ride alone unless you're staying near your barn.
An accident out on the trail or out of site of others in cold weather could develop into a serious or fatal situation quickly when the temperatures are low and there's no one to get help.
Finally, you'll normally experience more wind during the colder weather.
Some of that is a function of winter weather patterns, but normal blocking of wind by trees is much less when those trees are denuded and without leaves again until spring arrives.
Don't underestimate the additional cooling that wind will cause and the associated wind chill factor (this goes back to dressing properly).
Also remember that some horses are more easily spooked when you have such wind.
If you're careful, take reasonable precautions, and use reasonable judgment, winter riding can be lots of fun as well as a way for both you and your horse to stay in better shape and closer to good riding condition when the warmer weather returns.
I ride throughout the year and love it — you can, too.
Have fun!
December 29, 2009 – BARN & STALL FLOORING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What do you put on the floor of a horse barn?
Barn floors come in different forms from dirt or concrete to wood or some manufactured pad/mat.
Here are some observations:
Wood looks really good, but it takes a beating and is expensive.
Concrete lasts, but it's hard on the legs of the horses and on us.
Dirt floors are the most common and the ones I've seen the most, but they're difficult to clean in the stalls and always leave urine behind to attract flies and waft into your horse's respiratory system -- not healthy.
I like the mats the best.
They provide cushioning for the horse's legs (and ours, when we're in there) and are much easier to clean when mucking the stall.
Generally, they also keep the horse's urine and feces out of the dirt making for a better smelling stall that's much less prone to attract flies and cause hoof problems.
Hoof problems, such as Thrush and White-Line Disease, are generally caused by a horse standing in waste products (especially urine-wet dirt), and that's another good reason to avoid dirt stalls.
White-Line Disease can ultimately cause detachment between the laminae and the inside of the hoof wall — you could lose your horse.
As for the aisles of the barn, dirt is not so much a problem there and makes a softer surface than concrete, especially if you need to be able to trot your horse inside the barn for exercise when winter icing and deep snow occasionally keep your horses inside for a few days.
December 28, 2009 – CANTERING SAFELY ON THE TRAIL
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How can I canter safely on the trail?
I'm not sure that I understand your question; cantering, in and of itself, is not a dangerous activity for a a competent rider.
If you canter at a reasonable speed for the width and surface of the trail on a horse that responds to your commands, it should be rather safe.
Conversely, if you canter too fast for conditions or ride a horse that does his own thing and you're not able to adequately control his direction and speed, then that can be quite dangerous in any situation — it's not limited to the trails or to cantering.
December 24, 2009 – CONVERTING A SADDLE?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can an Australian saddle be converted to English?
This is an unusual question; no one has ever asked about converting one saddle type to another.
The first feeling I have is to ask why would you want to convert any kind of saddle.
To respond more specifically to your question, an Australian saddle is most like a large dressage saddle with the addition of the knee poleys and a deeper cantle; some have a horn while others do not.
If you removed the poleys, the saddle would still have a deep cantle and still be larger than a dressage saddle.
My advice is to get yourself a real English saddle of the style you actually want (dressage, jumping, etc.)
You should be able to find a good quality, used English saddle of the type you desire fairly inexpensively.
And if you can't afford to keep the Australian saddle or just have no use for it, consider selling it to pay for the English saddle.
I think that trying to convert any saddle will just ruin it and leave it with little or no value.
December 23, 2009 – DO HORSES MISS US?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Does my horse miss me when I'm away?
That's a tricky question and I'm not sure how much we humans really understand the feelings of animals.
I'm certainly no expert in this area, so all I can tell you is what I've seen over a lifetime with animals.
Animals do seem to get accustomed to the people and other animals in their lives and will often go looking for them.
One of my cats will sometimes go through the house meowing until she finds me or the other cat — the fact the cat stops meowing at that time implies (though, does not guarantee) that looking for another life-form is what she was pursuing.
Similarly, a horse alone in a barn or paddock will often whinny uncomfortably until another horse or a familiar person comes along to keep it company.
That doesn't mean it missed that horse or person, but we do know that horses do not feel as safe when alone.
My horse will often whinny and dance around when I arrive at the barn (or grazing field) and he sees me.
I think I can confidently say he's happy to see me coming his way.
Whether that's because he actually misses me or expects food or doing something more exciting, such as going out on the trail or the prospect of running with other horses we might ride and gallop with, I just don't know.
I do believe that we humans tend to look at animal feelings anthropomorphically, that is, we imbue our interpretations of love and feelings of friendship onto animals because that is how we understand them.
But, I'm far less comfortable believing that animals see and understand relationships in the same way as we do.
December 22, 2009 – WHY DO HORSES GET EASILY SCARED?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Why does my horse get scared over new things and act crazy?
You need to remember that horses are prey animals.
And as such, they're CONSTANTLY on guard and on the lookout for predators.
ANYTHING that looks unusual is a matter for caution and investigation.
Their instinct is to run away first and then explore from the safety of a distance.
Their instinct is why a horse will go down the same trail with no problem for months or years, and then stop 100 feet away the first time he sees some new object, let's say, an empty pail, on the side of the trail.
He'll approach slowly while watching the pail's every move (which, I think you'll agree, will not be very much).
After a slow approach and adequate listening and sniffing as he moves in close, he'll finally realize the pail offers no threat and continue on.
He may be suspicious again on the return trip because he's now viewing the pail from the other direction, but will then approach and pass the pail on subsequent trips without needing to slow down...until...someone moves the pail to the other side of the trail 10 feet away.
Then, the whole process will start over again because the potential predator has moved.
This is how horses act — it's in their nature.
And while it can be frustrating to some (I find it entertaining), it has kept them alive through the millennia..at least those that have been adequately cautious.
December 21, 2009 – RIDING IN THE SNOW
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it safe to ride a horse in the snow?
Yes, it is, as long as you take reasonable precautions.
For example, consider the conditions.
- Don't gallop or in any way go too fast at any gait on slippery ground no matter what makes it slippery, whether snow, ice, mud, or anything else — a fall could hurt you both.
- Don't go up or down steep hills that your horse could slip upon.
- If it's snowing while you ride, go especially slow if visibility is low.
If you watch horses that have just been released into the snow, they'll often get excited and scamper about, especially if the snow is light and fluffy and there are only a few inches of it.
They do that because they have fun playing in the snow.
You'll often see dogs, sometimes even cats, play in the snow.
Enjoy winter riding!
December 18, 2009 – BARN CEILING HEIGHT
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm talking to my husband about possibly building our own barn when the weather gets warmer next spring.
A question that came up is, how high does the ceiling of a barn have to be?
Ceilings in houses are generally around 8 feet because of the height of humans.
But the average horse is taller.
And if a horse rears, he can temporarily be much taller yet.
Most barns I've been in have ceilings that go from around 12 - 16 feet or more.
I wouldn't want a barn with a ceiling lower than ten feet to assure that a rearing horse wouldn't hit his head and risk a concussion.
Of course, if you were only keeping ponies, the height could be less, and miniatures would require even less headroom.
But in such a case, your resale value would also be limited.
Conversely, if you build a full-size barn, you can accommodate any size horse and so could future buyers of your property.
That significantly increases the chances that you'll receive good value at the time of sale.
December 17, 2009 – WEARING ORANGE WHILE RIDING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How much orange do I have to wear when riding in the winter?
Wearing orange IS NOT a requirement for winter riding — it is a requirement for riding trails on public land (particularly in state and national forests) during hunting season.
By wearing orange and being more easily seen by hunters, the intention is that you won't have to take an accidental bullet.
How much orange you need to wear depends on the laws of your state. For example, in some states, you must wear a minimum of 200 square inches of brightly colored orange garb.
In other states, the requirement can be less, or more — you need to check the requirements for your state.
The best way to fulfill this requirement is to wear a fluorescent orange vest.
It's very bright and noticeable.
Other options are bright orange sweatshirts or coats.
Several of my fellow riders increase their chances of being seen still further by adding additional orange to their riding accessories, such an orange saddle pad, a fluorescent orange piece of felt about three feet long tied to their horse's mane or tail, etc.
One rider also wears an orange scarf — your options are limited only by your imagination.
Two of my friends sometimes also put a strap of bells on their horse's necks.
One of them uses many small bells and the sound is somewhat subtle; the other uses large loud bells.
With the latter, it's hard to believe we could surprise any person or animal and we likely can be heard for miles.
Finally, you'll likely find that hunting season starts and stops throughout the colder months as the animals that can be hunted change.
For example, there may be several weeks of small game hunting, then a few of deer hunting with a bow, etc.
It may be possible to hunt the same game several times during the year.
Because of these vagaries, you either need to know when hunting is allowed or just do as many of us do and wear orange from October to May, or whatever the requirements dictate for your area.
December 16, 2009 – HOW LATE CAN HORSES STAY UP?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How late in the day can I work with my horse?
Like humans and all other animals, horses need some time to rest.
And while you might think they're resting in their grazing field, they still should be left alone overnight to be by themselves.
At several barns I've used, the generally agreed upon time is that no one is allowed in the grazing field or barn after 9:00 pm in order to let the horses rest.
Of course, during the warmer months, we've occasionally bent the rules when there's been a group night ride.
But that only happens two or three times during the year.
Other than that, we adhere to that limit and feel that is fair to both horse and rider.
December 15, 2009 – FLAKES IN A BALE?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How many flakes in a bale?
We've had this question before or something close to it.
Unfortunately, there's no standard when it comes to the sizes of hay bales.
They usually vary between 62 - 80 pounds or so.
A 62 pound bale will have about 10 flakes and an 80 pound bale will have about 14.
December 14, 2009 – UNSHOD HORSE IS TENDER FOOTED
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Why are my horse's feet always sore each year when I have his shoes taken off for the winter?
Well, think about it.
When shod, your horse's frog is elevated above the ground.
But when those shoes are removed, his frog touches the ground, and rocks and gravel are now touching and pushing against this soft, tender tissue.
Hence the term: "tender footed".
In the wild, the frogs of the horse's feet get tough, like our hands get callused from hard work.
With tough frogs, walking over rocks and gravel is no big deal.
But when you have your horse shod again in the spring for warm weather riding until autumn, your horse's frogs will be elevated, won't get much wear, and will get tender again.
Plus, at least here in the east, most horse's are kept on nice, soft, grassy pastures, so their frogs don't need to be tough unless they're regularly taken on rocky terrain.
From a health standpoint, lots of evidence in recent years indicates that a barefoot horse has healthier feet and legs because walking on the ground with no shoes compresses the frog and pumps nourishing blood back up the legs of the horse.
That's why many of us are going barefoot year-round with our horses and using boots for rocky terrain.
The hoof becomes a healthy looking rosy-tan and is much harder and stronger than they were when shod.
You can learn more about this topic by reading: Sore Feet & Hard Ground.
December 11, 2009 – HORSE IS SLOW OUT AND FAST BACK
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
When I ride my horse out on the trail, she's like molasses on the way out and I have to cajole, kick, and generally keep pushing her.
But on the way back, it's the opposite.
She wants to canter back and I work hard trying to hold her back.
It scares me.
I love my horse and I love trail riding, but this is no fun and I keep wondering if I should sell her and get out of riding, but I really don't want to do that.
You need to understand that many horses exhibit this behavior.
The reason is that going on the trail means doing work and leaving the sense of security of the barn and grazing fields and other "horse friends" with which your horse normally spends the day.
Coming back means returning to friends, food, and an easier life.
If most of the horses at your barn were to go on the trail ride, you'd likely find that they would all be happier because they'd all be together.
They're happier together because they feel safer when together.
A term often ascribed to this behavior of slow to leave the barn and fast to return is "barn sour".
You'll need to get a trainer involved in training you how to be your horse's leader.
Once that has happened, your horse will feel safe whenever you're around and will go more willingly on trail rides, even if it's just the two of you alone.
Of course, she'll always prefer to have other horses on the ride with you both.
If you're horse and you are normally the leader in a multi-horse ride, try riding in the middle or in the back and I'll bet your horse will stay right up with the herd instead of moving like molasses.
That's because she'll want to stay with the herd and not be left behind.
But do understand that riding somewhere other than in front is not a substitute for learning how to become your horse's leader.
Being the leader will not only make your rides more pleasurable, it will also make grooming and training easier as well as safer.
December 10, 2009 – WARM WINTER RIDING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Winter riding has always been hard for me because of not having warm enough winter riding gear.
It seems that no matter what gloves or boots I try I still get so cold that I don't make it very far before I turn back.
What gloves and boots do you suggest for keeping oneself warm and comfortable for really cold (30 degrees or less) winter riding?
Thank you for your time.
Riding or doing anything else at any time of the year is no fun if you're cold.
Your asking about warmer gloves and boots because your hands and feet are getting cold — gloves and boots are part of the solution, but are only a part of it.
When your hands and feet get cold and you're already wearing gloves and shoes/boots, that usually means that your core body doesn't have lots of heat to spare.
Here's how your body works:
As your body gets colder, it starts reducing the blood flow to those vessels near the surface feeding your skin.
It does this to conserve heat where it's always needed for survivability: your head, trunk, and the muscles of your arms and legs.
But if you have lots of heat for your head and core, those surface blood vessels will not constrict as much, or at all, and your hands and feet will be much warmer.
This is what happens when you're outside working on a really cold day, such as shoveling or stacking wood, and you find you have to remove your gloves to let your hands cool off.
Now, picture yourself riding a horse.
As winter weather comes on and temperatures drop below freezing, the ground gets hard and may even be icy.
At those times, the only riding you can do that's safe for your horse and you is the walk.
Well, you're not going to burn many calories at the walk.
The trot and canter will require shifting weight and using your legs like springs as a cushion and that's a lot of work — not so much when just sitting the walk.
So you're not generating much heat and have little to spare to keep hands and feet warm.
BUT, if you have a good quality coat designed for the weather, your trunk will be much warmer.
And YOU NEED to wear a hat.
If you wear a riding helmet as I do in all weather, you need a balaclava to cover that helmet and keep your head and ears warm.
And if you do that with that great coat, you'll have lots more heat to send to your hands and legs.
You'll still need gloves, but they won't have to be as thick.
This is all a long way of saying that keeping your hands, arms, feet, and legs warm is a whole body solution, not just thicker gloves and boots.
I carry two pairs of gloves, a thin pair, and a think pair.
Both are riding gloves specifically designed for riding.
I bought them because some gloves and cannot adequately grip the reins or are baggy and could get caught in the reins — not safe.
I wrote an article that gives more comprehensive information about garb for winter riding and covers your whole body.
You can read Winter Riding & Staying Warm right here.
Get proper clothing and you'll enjoy winter riding much more, plus, it'll be much safer.
In addition, you'll likely find that you start enjoying other outside activities in the winter also and you'll be doing those activities while wearing your winter riding clothes.
And don't forget about making sure that your horse is also healthy and in decent shape when you go out riding.
Winter is a strain on his biological system, too, so you want him in good physical condition.
If you're both in shape, the exercise will be healthy for both of you as well as enjoyable.
Have fun!
December 9, 2009 – CONVERTING BARN LIGHTING TO FLUORESCENTS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I've decided to convert my barn over to fluorescent lighting from incandescent to save money.
Is it better to install 4 foot long fluorescent tubes or CFLs?
Better is a relative term and depends on the installation.
There are currently three kinds of the long fluorescent tube bulbs: T5, T8, and T12.
T12 is what we've had for decades.
T8 designs are recent (15 years) and more efficient.
T5 is slightly more efficient than T8, but still more expensive.
T12 is being phased out, so it makes no sense to buy and install that fluorescent type, if you can even find it — if you decide to go with tubes, use T8 instead.
Comparing fluorescent tubes against CFLs (compact fluorescent lighting) is harder in that one may fit a particular installation better.
For example, when lighting a fish tank, using grow lights for rows of plants, or looking for an even light spread across a large area, the tubes distribute light more evenly.
That said, in your case, I'd just replace the incandescent bulbs with CFLs.
You'll find your barn will be brighter, use less electricity, and won't require you to hire an electrician to replace the existing sockets with tube fixtures.
Your investment will be minimal, you'll save significantly on your monthly electricity costs, and I don't think you'll have any problems with uneven lighting.
If you want to estimate your savings, see an article I wrote for Practical Horseman magazine in February of 2009 entitled: Better Barn Lighting.
It will also give you some ideas on how to use natural light and to get better results with any form of lighting you use.
December 8, 2009 – WALL KICK-THROUGH ABILITY
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can a horse kick through an inch thick wooden wall?
I like questions such as this that are different and unexpected.
The answer is that it would likely depend on several factors:
- The type of wood (e.g. oak is much stronger than cedar);
- Whether the wall is made of plywood or individual boards of solid wood;
- The moisture content of the wood (dry wood is stronger, but more brittle while wet wood is softer, but tougher;
- The degree of support behind the wall and the amount of space between the studs (closer together makes a stronger wall);
- The size of the horse doing the kicking;
- The condition of the horse doing the kicking;
- The angle of the kick, whether straight on or at a glancing angle.
The foregoing gives you an idea of at least some of the variables that would come into play and would be determining factors.
What I would find more interesting is the reason you asked this question?
Has your horse done this?
Or are you concerned that he/she might be able to do so and break free into some space you don't want them to go?
December 7, 2009 – THRUSH
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How should I treat my horses thrush?
Thrush is a rather "stinky" problem, as you've no doubt already smelled.
That black stuff you've removed is the result of an anaerobic bacteria — that means it can only live in a place that has no oxygen.
The most common cause of thrush is from stalls that are not kept clean.
Urine soaked bedding gets packed into the hoof on the sides of the frog and the absence of oxygen allows the bacteria to grow and multiply.
But these same dirty stall conditions can cause more serious problems.
More dangerous is another ailment called "white line disease".
Left untreated, it can ultimately cause detachment between the laminae and the inside of the hoof wall.
You can treat thrush with over-the-counter medicines you buy at your tack store or from your veterinarian.
You should start by having your farrier (or your veterinarian) look at your horse's infected hoof.
Your farrier may have to trim and clean the hoof, and especially the area around the frog.
This is because, if the infection is advanced, you can't leave an infected area behind that still has no exposure to the air and can continue to fester.
To avoid thrush in the future, you only need to do two things: 1) clean your horse's stall thoroughly each day; and 2) also pick his hooves clean each day.
If you do both, you'll likely never see (nor smell) this problem again.
December 4, 2009 – GIRTH TIGHTENING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm just recently getting back into riding...but I seem to have a problem tightening my english saddle.
Once it's done up the saddle itself doesn't seem to move, but I get a little worried because once I mount, if I lean down to check the tightness, it feels loose.
I don't seem to have any luck at adjusting it when I'm mounted either.
I've tried tightening, then letting my horse relax for a few minutes and then trying to tighten again...but I usually can't make it up to the next hole, although it gets close.
Should I consider punching in another hole?
You say that "Once it's done up the saddle itself doesn't seem to move, but I get a little worried because once I mount."
If that's true, maybe things are ok.
Try this: next time, have someone check the girth right after you mount.
They should be able to tell you whether or not the girth is loose.
If it's not, then you're fine and that feeling you're getting could be just a manifestation of movement while being on the horse.
If it is loose, then let's address that.
Regardless of the saddle type, an English style or otherwise, it sometimes seems that they can be difficult to properly tighten.
But the reason often has more to do with the horse than the saddle.
You're on the right track by tightening your girth (or cinch, if applicable) in stages.
Many horses have learned to inflate their lungs when you tighten, and then exhale and relax, which has the effect of a too loose girth.
I tighten mine in three, and sometimes, even four sessions.
The first tightening is when I connect the girth or cinch (depending on my saddle type for the ride).
I then move on to another part of the tack-up process, such as placing the bridle on.
Then I return and tighten the girth some more.
I'll walk my horse out of the barn and check the girth/tighten again.
By this time, it should be adequately tight, or very close, and I'll often check it one more time when I'm just about to mount.
Tightening while mounted is something you can do with an English saddle girth, but it does take some practice.
It also takes some strength and smaller riders often complain they can't tighten from the saddle.
So, if you are a small rider, this may not be an option, but you still can dismount, tighten from the ground, and remount again.
And yes, if you need to tighten the girth further and run out of holes, you can punch another hole or two further up if there's room.
December 3, 2009 – POOR HITCH PIN SUBSTITUTES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
One of my fellow riders is using a wire through his hitch coupler pin hole instead of a pin.
When I asked about it, he said he had two pins stolen, so now he uses the wire and no one wants to steal that.
Is the wire enough to do the job?
NO!
It's not.
On bumper-pull hitches, the pin is there to stop the coupler from accidentally opening and releasing from the hitch ball.
Wire is usually made of copper, which is soft.
You also didn't mention the wire gauge, but I doubt it was the diameter of a hitch pin (1/4 inch).
Tell your riding buddy he needs a real pin.
Depending on the state, he may be able to use a 1/4" bolt.
I use a locking security pin.
Not only do I not have to worry about someone taking it, it is a hardened security appliance designed to stop a thief from disconnecting the trailer from my tow vehicle and stealing it.
The price is only about $20 - $25.
One good source is TRIMAX locks.
You should also consider a receiver locking pin to assure a thief can't disconnect the drawbar from the receiver.
TRIMAX even sells kits of both coupler and receiver locking pins keyed the same so they can use the same key.
December 2, 2009 – DANGEROUS SADDLE TYPES?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is a western saddle dangerous, and can it injure a horse?
I must admit that I don't really understand this question.
A particular saddle type is not safer or more dangerous for a horse or rider.
English, Western, and many other saddle designs have been around for at least a century, some have been around for several centuries.
In all that time, I've not heard about or read about a particular design that still exists today that injures a horse.
Obviously, riding and using a saddle that doesn't fit the horse could cause injury, but that's because it doesn't fit, not because of its design.
And poor riding technique could cause dangerous stresses on the horse's skeletal system depending on what you're doing, such as jumping wrong, especially if the rider is heavy.
But a competent rider using any saddle, whether Western, English, Australian, dressage, jumping, endurance, or whatever else that is properly designed and properly fitted to the horse will not, in and of itself, injure a horse.
One more thing, if jumping is what you're refering to, a Western saddle should not be used for anything other than a few very small jumps.
To learn why, see out article entitled: Is it Safe to Jump in a Western Saddle?.
December 1, 2009 – TRAILER WITH CRACKED TIRES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it safe to pull my trailer with its tires having cracked sidewalls?
My friends says that it' oks and just dry rot.
I'm not so sure and don't want to risk my horse's lives if it isn't safe.
You're taking a chance with safety when a vehicle or trailer has cracked tire walls.
Check out our article about trailer tire safety to learn more about this issue.
It's entitled: Tire Safety When Towing Horses.
November 24, 2009 – BARN ELECTRICAL SERVICE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm building a new barn.
How large an electrical service should I have installed.
It depends on what you want to do.
A barn can be a small electrical power user.
Many barns have only lights and a radio; a 120 volt 30 amp circuit is more than enough for that, especially if you're going to use Compact Fluorescent Lamps (CFLs) (which you should).
But if you're going to do more, then you need to think a little bigger.
For example, if you want to have hot water in the barn, that usually means installing an electric hot water heater.
And I can tell you from personal experience that it's great to have hot water in a barn.
It makes cleaning everything much easier, cleaner, and more comfortable.
Hot water heaters come in many different sizes and heating speeds.
The smaller ones will draw 1,500 watts and can run off one dedicated 120 volt, 15 amp circuit, while an instant, tank-less heater supporting a higher flow rate (such as for a washing machine) could require a 40 amp, 240 volt circuit.
You'll need to add the appropriate amount to your barn service size depending on what size water heater you buy.
If you include a fridge in your barn, figure another 15 or 20 amp, 120 volt circuit.
A refrigerator is nice for keeping medications fresh and longer lasting, keeping beverages for staff and boarders, even keeping the requisite bag(s) of carrots for the local tenents.
If you include the aforementioned washing machine and, perhaps, a clothes dryer as the barn where I board my horse has, you're talking still more, especially for the dryer that can require as large as a 50 amp, 240 volt circuit just for it.
I will admit, it is great to be able to wash our horse sheets and saddle blankets at the barn, especially because we'd all rather not put them in the same washer we use for our clothes at home — lots of horse hair is always left behind in the washer.
Therefore, I can't give you just a "one size fits all" voltage/current rating for you to have installed because I don't know what you plan to install in your new barn.
But I do advise that you first decide what appliances you want out there, then speak with an electrician.
Truth be told, most of the cost of installing the service will be in the electrician's labor, therefore, it's a good idea to put in a bigger electrical service now to which you can add more appliances in the future than limiting yourself to just lighting and having to spend much more to have a bigger service installed later.
November 23, 2009 – STALL CLEANING FREQUENCY
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How many times does a horse stall need to be cleaned?
Generally, once a day.
If the stall is too small for the horse (10' x 10' or less for a standard horse), which is actually fairly common, it might need more frequent cleaning.
A bigger stall (e.g. 10 x 14 or larger), actually lets the horse use the end opposite his food for a bathroom, which makes it easier for us to clean because the horse waste is concentrated in a small area rather than spread about.
Of course, if the horse is stalled for more than overnight, such as all day when there's lots of ice on the ground, the stall will need to be cleaned at least twice for those days, maybe more.
November 20, 2009 – GALLOPING WITH INJURED BACK?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can galloping hurt my horse's injured back?
That depends on the injury.
Unfortunately, your question tells us so little about the injury that we don't even know what's wrong with your horse's back.
If it's a skeletal problem, you need to be very careful what you let and make your horse do and galloping is more than likely not recommended..
Conversely, if it's a minor wound to tissue, such as a bite from another horse, you can probably still ride as long as the wound is not deep and it's not under the saddle area.
Yet, a deeper wound could be a problem and likely should get professional medical attention.
In all health issues, your best bet is to always check with your vet first.
While barn owners, trainers, other riders, friends, the Horse Girl, and I, can all offer opinions, we're not health experts and you should never depend on non-qualified counsel for any serious injury.
Now, for things like fly bites, we might be able to help and the risk of poor advice is not so high.
November 19, 2009 – HOOF GROWTH
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How fast do horse's hooves grow between shoeings?
As in most things, it depends.
In this case, it depends on the horse and the environment.
Hoof growth rate will vary by the horse's individual metabolism.
And for almost all horses, hooves grow faster in climates with lots of rainfall and moisture than in drier areas like the American southwest.
But, on average, hooves grow between 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch per month.
If the average shoeing is every six weeks, that'll be between 3/8 inch to 3/4 inch between shoeings.
Coincidentally, this is the same average rate as the growth of hair in humans.
November 18, 2009 – STARTING A BOARDING BARN
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How much money could I expect to make if I start a boarding barn?
This is a difficult question to answer.
There are many variables to consider.
For example, the area you live in will have a big effect.
If you live in an affluent area with well-funded patrons, you can charge more than if you live in a more modest area.
Of course, those patrons will expect more for their money in terms of accommodations and services, such as a really clean barn, perhaps a bathroom with hot and cold running water, ample space for tack in a heated room, large stalls, etc.
Also, think of ways you can keep costs low while simultaneously keeping quality high.
Consider hay, for example.
If you can grow and harvest your own hay, the cost will be lower and the quality could be much higher than what you can buy.
Another factor is the number of stalls.
If it's a large number, such as 40, 50, or more, you have economies of scale not available to the more common barns having only 10 or 20 stalls.
But, it takes a lot more money to start a larger barn and you need to first assure you'll have enough customers to fill those stalls, and the availability of cost-effective help.
As you can see, there is a lot to consider to be able to come up with a "ball park" estimate of what you could make.
One of our contributing editors, Jen Goddard, who also is a barn owner and horse trainer as well as an equine business consultant, wrote several of excellent articles you should read as you consider getting into the boarding and training business.
They are:
Buying A Horse Farm - Part 1
Buying A Horse Farm - Part 2
Building Your Dream Barn
And if you should decide to go forward and to build, the Horse Girl wrote this helpful article:
Hiring a Barn Building Contractor
Best of luck!
November 17, 2009 – BACKING WITH A SWAY BAR ATTACHED
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I was told I can't back my trailer with the sway bar attached.
Is this true?
It may depend on the sway bar..
The instructions for the Draw-Tite Sway Control state that you can back slowly with the bar in place.
The first time you do it, they recommend having someone watch you backing while you approach a jackknife position (don't actually jackknife your trailer — you'll cause damage).
You're ok as long as the slider in the bar doesn't "bottom out".
Take note of how sharp a turn you can make without "bottoming" the slide so that you get an idea of your minimum safe turn radius — you never want to turn it any sharper going backwards or forwards.
If you do, you'll bend and damage the sway bar.
Otherwise, it is ok to back slowly with a sway bar attached.
If you use a weight distribution system, you may not even need to use your sway bar.
But also remember that weight distribution systems also have turn limits and it doesn't matter whether you're going forward or backwards — stay within these limits and don't turn too sharply.
November 16, 2009 – EQUINE AFFAIR & MARK RASHID
The Horse Girl and I spent the last four days at the Equine Affaire trade show interacting with many of you and immersing ourselves in the world of horses.
Needless to say, this is one of the most fun parts of our work.
Talking with people who share our love of horses and riding for four straight days is great fun!
It's also a wonderful opportunity to learn, both from fellow horse enthusiasts and from internationally respected clinicians.
While we've been doing this show for several years, we moved our booth this year into the middle of the trade show "remuda".
Coincidentally, one of these well-known clinicians decided to try a booth at the show for the first time and it happened to be beside ours.
His name is Mark Rashid.
I had seen ads for Mark's books and DVDs and had read glowing reviews, but I knew little about the man himself and his approach.
The last four days provided an opportunity to see one of Mark's clinics and to chat with him many times over the days of the show.
I've come away having great respect for the man and his message.
Mark advocates horse interaction, training, and riding with a very open, non-forceful approach focused on understanding the horse, communicating with him, and building trust.
He doesn't believe that a horse ever tries to outwit us or has any ulterior motive.
There are other clinicians who advocate similar tenets and have their own variations, but I cannot currently make comparisons because I haven't had an opportunity to chat with them nor see them in action.
Regardless, my only point here is that I was able to explore more of that with Mark because of our chat opportunities and seeing a clinic — I was quite impressed.
One of the problems we all face when learning about horses, is who to believe.
We receive advice from every trainer, every instructor, every barn owner, heck, even almost every horse owner and rider.
Many people just parrot what they were taught or heard, even if it's wrong.
They don't keep up with new learning that has come to light.
Others follow the "fad du jour" and espouse that until some new approach comes along.
This leaves those of us truly wanting to do right by our horses in a quandary about what to believe and how to proceed with all of this conflicting information — its particularly hard for the new rider and owner.
I feel strongly that we have a responsibility to learn as much as we can.
That means from others, through reading, from our own interaction with horses in general, and influenced by the personality of our particular horse(s).
Then we have to do the hardest part: THINK.
That means we evaluate what we've read, heard, seen, and learned.
Does it make sense?
Is it fair to the horse?
Have we explored all possible causes for whatever behavior we're seeing or pursuing?
If looking for a solution to a problem, have we investigated thoroughly?
Could the problem be non-behavioral?
In other words, could it be due to the horse having an injury, an illness, a parasite, ill-fitting tack, bad rider technique, too heavy a rider, etc., etc.
Or could it be due to a fear the horse has to which we're not aware?
Over the months and years, our continuing evaluation of the horse, ourselves, and the advice we're considering allows us to put together our own approach to horse care, training, and riding.
And don't forget, we're always training the horse we're with whether explicitly teaching them, riding them, or letting them do something they shouldn't.
To fulfill our responsibility, we need to keep learning from all these sources and we need to commit the time to do the hardest part of all: the thinking.
My time with Mark impressed me and comported well with my sensibilities.
As a result, I'm going to be pursuing and learning a lot more about his approaches and philosophies.
That doesn't mean I will agree with everything he says, and I would never advocate that any of us should follow any one person's approach.
But I will say this horseman's approach resonates with me — it feels right in my gut.
If you're frustrated with all the conflicting advice you're getting, I suggest you consider looking into Mark Rashid's philosophies about horses and our interaction with them.
And if you're already happy with your approach to horses, look anyway.
Mark has a wonderfully soft, understanding, and effective way with horses from which we can learn much.
I think you'll be glad you did!
November 11, 2009 – HORSE RUNS AWAY WHEN OWNER APPROACHES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Why does my horse run away from me when I go down to the paddock to get her?
I go each day after work to train her so we can show and she always runs away.
Sometimes, I can't even catch her and I need the barn owner's help.
She doesn't run from the barn owner.
The "Horse Girl" and I have answered this question in several variations quite a few times, so it does seem to be a fairly widespread problem.
What you need to do is to put yourself in your horse's place.
For what primary reasons do you think the barn owner approaches your horse?
At most barns, it's for the following reasons:
- He/she approaches your horse to bring them out to their paddocks for the day to graze, play, and be with their friends;
- They approach them to bring them back to the barn so they can eat.
And you likely know that food is appealing to horses.
What's not to like about these reasons from a horse's perspective?
Now, for what reasons do many owner approach their horses?
- To drill them in some new routine;
- To ride them in the ring.
Does doing these things over and over again sound like fun to you?
Aren't they more like boring work?
And often, you'll probably ride alone in the ring and your horse won't even have her friends or any other horses around.
My horse doesn't run from me, he starts walking toward me — always.
In fact, he'll often whinny when he sees me and start walking in circles as he gets excited.
No, I'm not that exciting a person and I'm also not a horse whisperer nor a magician with horses or any other animals.
The reason this happens is because my horse views me as his leader and my arrival also usually means he's going to have some fun, attention, or both.
Most days, he gets a brushing, hoof cleaning, and then I stand beside him for 30 minutes or more while he grazes outside his paddock.
On weekends, it'll often mean we're going to ride.
Yes, he will be doing some work, but it's work he likes, such as some cantering and galloping.
Contrary to what some riders think, horses actually do like to run, not till they're exhausted, but to get some exercise.
They like it even more if other horses come along and we've got an actual herd.
I like that more, too, but sometimes it's just the two of us because other riders aren't available.
Another thing horses like are games.
So, if you can make your training like a game, that training can be fun if it's not too long and not the same thing over and over again — drilling is no fun!
And keep the learning easy; don't make it so hard that they remain confused.
Horses like being praised after learning something within their abilities.
That means doing so in small steps and not too many steps or too long a training session — 30 minutes to an hour is ok.
Therefore, training your horse so you can show together is fine, but mix it up with grooming, grazing while you keep her company, trail riding, some running, and learning different things.
If you do that, I'll bet your horse will begin to look forward to your visits.
She won't know what she's going to do, but she will know it'll be a change from what she's currently doing in the paddock, she can expect some praises, hugs (maybe a kiss or two), a little running, the massage of a brushing, and more.
And you'll find that you'll be happier when you know that she is, too.
As for the importance of being your horse's leader, here are two articles you may want to read:
Step 0: Before Training, You Need Respect.
Alpha? It MUST, be you! — IS IT?
Good luck!
I hope this helps.
November 10, 2009 – BLAZING TRAILS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can you ride a horse through the forest with no trail?
Are you asking whether it's possible to blaze a trail with a horse or if it's permitted?
It's certainly possible; a horse can step or jump over fallen brush or trees easily enough.
As to whether or not you're breaking some rules, that depends on where you're riding.
Many state forests prohibit trail blazing so that there remains unspoiled areas for wildlife.
Hikers, horses, and any kinds of wheeled vehicles (bicycles, dirt bikes, etc.) will destroy any growing vegetation from the constant travel over the same area.
By prohibiting such travel off the trails, many park services help to maintain vegetation normally eaten by the fauna indigenous to the area (deer, rabbits, etc.)
On private property, you can do whatever the owner allows.
So, large farms or ranches allowing riding on their property may allow you to blaze trails — you need to ask whether or not it's permitted.
Personally, I prefer to stay on established trails.
I like the idea of maintaining some unspoiled areas and there's also something appealing about following a trail hither and fro to explore where it goes and what you'll see.
November 9, 2009 – CARE ITEMS FOR YOUR FIRST HORSE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm in the process of buying my first horse.
I don't yet have a saddle or bridle, but want to take my time shopping so I get the right one's for my horse and me.
However, I have nothing, what kinds of items do I need to get started immediately?
Well, right from the beginning, you need a good halter.
I like break-away halters so your horse should be able to get free without getting hurt if he panics.
Also, get a 6 - 8 foot lead line.
Next, you need grooming tools.
You'll likely be able to borrow some for a few days or weeks, but you really want to have your own.
Start with a regular brush and add a soft brush for his face.
Get a hoof pick (or two), a curry comb, and a regular, inexpensive, women's hair brush works fine for mane and tail care.
Get any 2 - 3 gallon pail and a sponge for summer cooling and washing.
This is really all you need for a start.
As seasons change, you'll get other accessories, such as a fly mask, fly spray, coolers, blankets, etc.
You'll also get a lunge whip and other ground work and training aids.
Then, there'll be care products, like wound ointment, insecticides, mane/tail detangler, and such.
But initially, the halter, lead line, and basic grooming tools will get you started with the day-to-day needs, keep your costs down, and let you get familiar with your horse.
Other riders and barn friends will make suggestions, lend you some of their stuff, and you'll begin to form your own opinions about which other products you want to get.
As for tack, that takes more consideration because of the costs involved and the importance of choosing wisely for the skeletal health of both your horse and you.
When I bought my current horse, I knew I wanted to get a nice saddle and wanted to learn a lot more about saddle trees before committing.
So, I purchased an inexpensive synthetic saddle so I could ride now while taking my time learning.
It took me a year to investigate and try many saddles to my own satisfaction and to decide on what I really wanted.
I'm delighted with my ultimate selection and could never have gone through the process without having a temporary saddle in which to ride.
Another option is if a friend has a saddle that properly fits your horse that they could lend you for the time you explore your own saddle needs and desires.
If you want to read about my saddle search experiences, see the series beginning with Saddle Search – Part 1: A Secure Saddle, Fit, & Comfort.
Good luck and enjoy your new horse!
November 6, 2009 – LONG LEAD LINES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it better to use a long lead line when leading a horse?
I don't think it matters.
As for me, if leading with the horse beside me (more of an English approach), I like to have my right hand (the closer hand to the horse) about a foot from where the lead line attaches to the halter.
If the horse moves quickly for any reason, I'm immediately aware and can respond.
I keep the rest of the line in my left hand (the further hand) in a coil which I squeeze — you don't want any of the lead line wrapped around your hand.
If you like to lead in front of your horse (more of a Western approach), you still don't need a long lead line.
Most lead lines are at least five feet long with the longest ones being around ten feet long.
Whichever approach you take, a five or six foot line will be more than long enough.
If you have a longer line, you'll have more line that you need to keep in the further hand.
I tend to grasp for a longer lead line for training purposes rather than for just leading the horse from one place to another.
November 5, 2009 – RIDING ALONE ON THE TRAIL
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm taking some heat from fellow riders who think we should never ride the trails alone.
I like an occasional solo ride and always carry a cell phone with me.
Any thoughts?
There's absolutely no doubt that riding alone brings some additional risk.
If you were to become injured, or even if you just fell off your horse without injury, but far from the barn and he ran off, it could be risky for you if the weather was very cold, rainy, or after dark.
That said, I like to occasionally ride alone and know of many others that also do.
Let's face it, we're also taking a chance every time we get into a car or truck to travel someplace, regardless of whether we're driving or just a passenger — many activities have some inherent risk.
There is something special about it being just our horse and us sometimes.
And I also like the fact that I can let my horse stop and listen when he wants to investigate a sound or some movement; it's harder to let him do that when riding with others in a group.
So when riding alone, I try to increase my ability to cope with a potential problem by carrying some extra safety equipment in addition to my cell phone.
Besides a first aid kit and various tools and spare parts, I carry a two-way radio, a police whistle, a mirror, and a flashlight and strobe signaling device (useful at night).
The foregoing equipment still provides no guarantees, but it does significantly increase the chances that I could get help if I ever needed it and my cell phone didn't work.
Of course, make sure that you carry some of this stuff on your person in case your horse does run off with the rest of your safety equipment — he won't be using it.
November 4, 2009 – REPLACING TRAILER FLOORING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it expensive to fix the floor on a horse trailer?
The floor is shot and I'm just looking for a ballpark price so I have an idea of what to expect.
Well, like so many things in life, it depends.
There's no standard and the kind of floor you have in your trailer will determine the cost.
- The easiest and cheapest to replace will be pressure-treated lumber.
This is because the planks are easily removed and replaced and you can get them at any home store or lumber yard.
You'll also find pressure-treated plywood flooring which is a little harder to replace, but not much more so, and it, too, is reasonably priced.
Avoid using any non-pressure-treated wood for replacement flooring; it will tend to rot fairly quickly.
- An aluminum or galvanized steel (rare) floor are the hardest to replace, if in fact you can even do the job yourself and can get the replacement flooring.
- Rumbar floors are very popular, but they hardly ever need to be replaced, so I presume you don't have this kind of floor.
I don't have actual prices because I don't know if you intend to just buy the replacement flooring and do the job yourself or have someone else do it.
I also don't know where you are in the country and location affects the price of both materials and labor.
But you should be able to get pricing for the lumber or plywood floors relatively easily.
The rest will likely require that you take it to trailer dealers and get quotations.
November 3, 2009 – A STANDARD DRAWBAR "DROP"?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What is the most common trailer hitch "drop?"
I need to get a bar to fit into my trucks receiver, but I don't know which one to buy because there are all these different "drops".
Why isn't there a standard?
I understand your frustration, but if you think about this for a moment, the answer becomes obvious.
There is no "most common" or "standard" drop because there are no standard heights for tow vehicles or for trailers.
Bigger vehicles are generally higher off the ground because everything is, well, bigger, including the wheels and tires.
This places the axles and the vehicle higher above the ground.
And this is good because many of these trucks are used at construction sites and for other off-road applications that require higher ground clearance to avoid getting hung up on rocks or stumps.
Conversely, trailers tend to be lower to keep their center of gravity low so they won't flip when we drive around a turn on the road — it gives them better stability.
A trailer manufacturer doesn't know if you're going to pull a 2 horse trailer with an SUV, pickup truck, big dually, or anything else.
At the same time, the truck manufacturer doesn't know if you're going to pull a horse trailer, utility trailer, a boat trailer, log splitter, or something else.
Many truck owners pull several or all of these with the same vehicle and they vary in height.
So, with all these different potential "tow packages" and many different trucks, some with 4-wheel drive (which makes them ride higher still), it's impossible to manufacture all these vehicles and trailers so their hitches and couplers will match in height (or even by coupler).
The most often used hitch for the intermediate load is the receiver, and by providing drawbars of different heights, we have an easy way of making them all work together.
November 2, 2009 – EASILY STARTLED HORSES?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Why do horses get startled when you move quickly around their head?
You don't say whether the horses in question generally have their heads up or down while you're experiencing this behavior.
If their heads are down grazing and you're moving quickly and too close to their heads, they're likely concerned about getting their heads kicked and don't know what all your movement around them means.
If their heads are up, I don't know the answer to your question.
When I'm working with my own horse or that of a friend or at some other barn, my movement around a horse doesn't usually startle them.
I do talk soothingly to them while I work and drag my hand on their backs when I go around them so they always know where I am.
But they're not startled or acting alarmed.
If the horses with which you have experience tend to be easily spooked, that could be the reason for what you're experiencing.
But, most horses should not act that way.
Most horses have usually been around humans their entire lives and are used to us milling around them as we check them over, groom them, clean their mains and forelocks, pick their hooves, cut a bridle path, remove ticks, etc., etc.
If you're finding that the horses you interact with are all easily startled, you may want to check into how they're being managed at their barn — that's not normal behavior and they might be highly stressed — and that's not healthy for them nor a happy existence..
October 30, 2009 – A SIMPLE TRAIL RIDING HORSE?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What type of horse breed do you need for simple trail riding?
First, it's hard to know what you mean by "simple" trail riding.
And second, while some breed types are preferred for certain riding disciplines, trail riding is one that is available to almost all breeds.
More important are characteristics that are pertinent to the rider.
For example, a large rider should use a horse capable of carrying heavier riders.
That may be a larger horse or a stocky small horse.
New riders will want a horse that is very calm and experienced so they don't find themselves fighting their horse to cross a brook or even frightened by them if the horse is more aggressive.
Conversely, a more experienced rider may prefer more spirited horses.
Please consider submitting a little more information as to what you'd like to do on the trail, plus your riding experience, and we're happy to offer suggestions.
October 29, 2009 – SADDLE SEATBELTS???
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Why doesn't someone put a seat belt for a horse saddle so I don't bounce around so much and worry about falling off?
You're kidding, right?
One of the best reasons for NOT putting a seat belt on a saddle is so you can get off the horse if he rolls, messes a jump, or spooks and you have no control.
A rider in such a situation would not have the time, let alone the presence of mind, to unbuckle a belt so he could jump.
If you were ever under a horse when he fell or rolled, you would get injured at best, most likely, much worse.
If you're bouncing in the saddle or can't stay on, it sounds like some lessons would help.
Many people trot, canter, gallop, and jump horses without falling off — it's about balance and moving with the horse.
This all comes with instruction and practice — there's no shortcut.
And if it's steep downhill travel or the unexpected quick turn, shy, or stop you're worried about, you can get an Australian saddle.
They have "knee poleys" that help keep the rider in the saddle, but still allow him to escape if ever necessary.
October 28, 2009 – WE MUST BE IN CONTROL
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
When out on the trail, why does my horse always want to canter home?
I'm afraid when he does that.
Canter?
Most horses would want to gallop back!
It's not uncommon for horses to want to quickly return to their barn or paddock.
And why not?
It's a place they've generally come to feel is safe, their friends are there, they get to graze, and they don't have to work.
Heck!
I know many humans who want to always stay home, live to eat, be with their friends, and avoid all work — why should horses be different?
That said, horses having fun out on the trail will be somewhat more content.
If you normally ride alone, try riding with others, especially four or more.
At that point, you start to form a small herd and the horses feel safer together.
And if one runs, they'll all want to run and are more inclined to enjoy it.
There are those that advise to never run your horses back to the barn because it reinforces their natural desire to do so and because you might not be able to stop your horse.
I don't agree with that and sometimes return at a run and at other times it's at the walk or a mixture of gaits.
In fact, I try to mix up the gaits during all my rides regardless of where we are and where we're going.
That way, my horse doesn't relate a particular gait with any particular location or direction — he just follows my commands.
Of course, when we ride as a group, his preference will be to do whatever the group does.
But it's up to me to allow or disallow that, and I mix that up also.
The one concern I have about many riders is their fear of a horse cantering or galloping.
If you can't control your horse, which means stopping, turning, and accelerating at all gaits, you're taking a risk by going out on the trail.
Competent riding means being in control and not being afraid.
You might go out on the trail alone or with a few friends with the intention of it being just a walking or a walk/trot ride, but things can happen.
Your horse could spook, be afraid of loose dogs or bicyclists, or another group of horses with inconsiderate riders could gallop past you.
In these situations, you can't just pray that all will turn out well, you need to be able to control your horse, including being able to canter, gallop, turn, and stop him.
Otherwise, it's like driving a car and hoping it doesn't rain until you've gotten back home because you're afraid to drive on wet roads.
What happens when you do get caught in the rain?
Will you panic?
That's not acceptable!
Similarly, for your safety, the safety of other riders, and that of hikers, bicyclists and everyone else with which we share the trail, we need to be able to control our horses in all situations.
If that's an issue, it means we need more riding instruction, and maybe our horses could also use some additional training.
It's never worth risking lives.
If we won't do it for our own safety, we are still responsible to not endanger others.
October 27, 2009 – COLD WEATHER TRAILERING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can horses catch cold while being trailered in cold weather?
I don't know about the risk of catching cold by exposure to cold air — you need to check with your vet on that one.
But I do know that there is a risk of hypothermia for a horse when trailering in cold weather.
If you have a fully enclosed trailer, that won't be as bad.
If you have a stock trailer, the degree of risk will be determined by the temperature of the air, the speed at which you're driving, and whether or not there's a wind to add to the driving speed.
Personally, I'd avoid trailering a horse in cold weather with a stock trailer except for short trips.
On longer trips, I'd use a fully enclosed trailer.
Even then, your horse cannot be very active in the trailer, so he can't generate much heat through higher levels of activity.
Therefore, you still want to limit the trips in the coldest weather, especially the further north you are.
October 26, 2009 – BE ON HORSE TIME?
Because of our harried schedules these days, it's easy for horses to become an obligation rather than a passion.
I've come to realize the mistake in letting that happen in my own life.
That doesn't mean seeing my horse less, it actually means seeing him more.
Horses require us to allocate some of our precious time to their care, even when we board them.
That's because some of that care should be just some quality time with us.
Such time can include riding, but shouldn't be all work for our horses.
It should be fun and relaxing for both.
If the foregoing resonates with you and you'd like to give this a little thought of your own, read the article entitled, appropriately enough: Be on "Horse Time".
October 23, 2009 – LEANING HORSE TRAILER
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse trailer is leaning to one side.
What's wrong?
The first thing I would do is to place your trailer on a level, flat surface.
Then, check the tire inflation on the low side.
It could be as simple as underinflated tires on that side.
If that's not the problem, you'll need to get under the trailer to look at the suspension system to see if something has broken.
There isn't much more to check, unless the frame has bent or broken and the trailer shell itself is leaning, but I presume you'd be able to see that by just looking at the trailer.
Placing the trailer first on level ground will give you a more accurate reference as you investigate the problem.
If you find the source of the problem and it's not any of my suggestions, please write back and let us know what you find.
I'm very interested to know the problem if it's anything else because I can't imagine any other casues.
Good luck!
October 22, 2009 – BAD SADDLE TYPES?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Does an English saddle hurt a horse's back? Should I ride Western instead?
I've heard these kinds of questions asked before in various incarnations.
Sometimes it's about an English saddle, at other times it can be about a Western saddle, a dressage saddle, or some other type.
The answer is: No saddle will hurt the horse if it's properly sized for the horse and is in good condition — it doesn't matter the type.
You have to understand that, while there are different kinds of saddles, all saddle designers and manufacturers are creating products designed to distribute the rider's weight over the horse's back with minimal discomfort.
And there are different ways to do it.
All disciplines are appropriate and the one you choose is usually the result of the kind of riding you want to do.
Many riders have several different saddles because they ride several different disciplines.
You wouldn't want to pursue jumping in a Western saddle.
The horn would present a danger to you and the saddle is not designed to continually take the shock of jumping; plus, it's a heavier saddle that would make the horse work harder at each jump.
Similarly, taking long trail rides in that jumping saddle would prove uncomfortable over the hours because it's a forward saddle; plus, it doesn't have the deeper cantle and pommel that provide more safety support in the event of a spook.
The arena doesn't usually harbor the denizens of the field and forest that cause spooks commonly found on the trail.
Essentially, each saddle is designed for its purpose and while you can use other tack, it generally doesn't work as well and usually suffices only for shorter rides.
Also understand there is no right or wrong discipline and each requires a combination of basic skills common to all riding, plus some specialty skills determined by that particular discipline.
If you want to become a really good rider, explore more than one discipline by taking lessons from an instructor qualified to teach that discipline.
You'll find that those skills will usually translate well and help you to be a better rider in your favorite discipline.
As the Horse Girl has often told me: "All saddle time is good time!"
October 21, 2009 – BREASTPLATES AND WESTERN SADDLES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Why would someone use a breast plate with a western saddle?
There can be several reasons:
- The usual reason is because the saddle slips backwards when going uphill, especially steep hills.
The breastplate limits how far the saddle can slide backward to a half inch or an inch or so.
- It can be used to help keep the horses head down.
- Some people do it just because they like the look of a breastplate on a horse and consider it part of their normal tack.
- If you use wither bags, they usually connect to the center of the girth strap and to a breastplate, so you need it as a way to secure the wither bags.
October 20, 2009 – TRUCK AND TRAILER GROSS WEIGHT RATINGS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Does the towing capacity of a truck include the truck operator and passengers?
No.
The towing capacity describes the maximum amount of weight your truck can tow.
It does include the weight of the trailer and the weight of everything in the trailer.
This means the horses, hay, tack, any fluids — EVERYTHING!
What you're asking about is the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW).
The GVW of your truck includes the weight of the truck with everything in it from fluids (oil, gasoline, etc.) to all occupants and all cargo in the cab and in the bed.
Finally, we have the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR).
This is the maximum weight the engine of your truck can move and includes the tow vehicle, trailer, and everything in both.
BUT, it DOES NOT mean the combined gross weight ratings of both truck and trailer — it's usually less than that total.
That's because if you're not towing a trailer, you can put more into your truck up to its GVW.
Conversely, as you load up a trailer, you cannot include as much weight in your truck.
So, when towing a trailer, you need to make sure that you stay under the GVW of the truck, under the GTW of the trailer, and under the GCWR for both.
October 19, 2009 – MORE HORSES AND WIND RIDING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it safe for a horse to ride in the wind?
I've gotten lots of inquiries about this question in various permutations this autumn.
And I addressed autumn riding specifically in a response on September 28, 2009.
The short answer is: YES!!!
The horse can ride in reasonable wind and so can you.
Horses and you are not in any danger from the wind itself unless it is extreme, such as in tornadoes or hurricanes.
Of course, consider also where you'll ride.
If it's in a forest, be aware of the possibility of falling branches or dead trees that can be blown over by the wind.
In normal autumn winds that are not unreasonable, the bigger question is how your horse feels and acts on windy days.
Is he calm or do the wind and its affects spook him.
Many horses become more alert and a little anxious on the first windy day or two, but usually calm down after that as they again get used to it.
We have an article that explores this topic more deeply entitled: Horses and Wind.
October 16, 2009 – STORING A SADDLE INSIDE DURING WINTER
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Should I keep my saddle inside this winter?
It's interesting that this is the first time someone has asked this question.
I keep my main saddle in my home year round.
I do that because it's all leather and the environment at home is both stable and "friendly" to leather — both the temperature and the humidity stay within a narrow range.
Conversely, tack rooms at barns, are generally not so good for leather.
Those that are heated in the winter and cooled or dehumidified in the summer are far better, but they're rare.
Most tack rooms are just an adjacent room or space in the barn that follows the weather outdoors.
So they get very hot in warmer weather, damp and promote mold and mildew in wet weather, and can be somewhat dry in the winter.
If you have a synthetic saddle, it should do find in all weather at your barn.
BUT, do consider the theft issue.
Most barns are vacant at night and it'd be an easy matter for a thief to enter and steal tack from most barns.
If you do keep your saddle at home, do consider that homes can get very dry in the winter because already dry, outside air gets even dryer as it warms up inside.
That means continuing to occasionally oil your saddle lightly to keep the leather supple through the cold months.
And don't just drop your saddle on the floor, get or build a saddle stand so the saddle's tree sits properly and doesn't get out of shape or damaged.
Three very bad places for saddles at home are unfinished basements, attics, and unheated garages.
The best place is on a stand in the corner of a room that is used by your family.
Leather does best in the same environment that most of us find comfortable.
Finally, don't forget about your other leather that requires the same care and environment.
So, the foregoing also applies to any leather bridles, reins, halters, martingales, tapaderos, saddle bags, etc., etc.
October 15, 2009 – GLUING SHOES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Does using glue to affix a horse shoe allow the hoof to expand?
No.
The manner of affixing the shoe, whether with glue or nails, has no effect on the hoofs ability to move.
The hoof doesn't expand or contract so much as it grows between shoeings.
It's the shoe itself that limits the hoof's ability to move as it grows.
Think about it.
The shoe is either steel or aluminum — both are metals and quite rigid.
If they're securely affixed to your horse's hoof (with glue or nails), the hoof won't be able to grow and change much until the nails loosen from the hoof crumbling.
It crumbles because it must grow and the shoe and nails are rigid.
The hoof is softer, so as the growth stresses increase, the hood starts to crumble.
Plus, the average horse is carrying about 300 - 400 pounds on each hoof and shoe.
He runs, jumps, and stops with his weight on the shoes, so that also has a loosening effect.
If you want to learn more about hooves, see our article entitled: How Hooves Work.
October 14, 2009 – YOUR HORSE'S BACK WHEN MOUNTING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can mounting your horse hurt his back?
Actually, it can if you're too harsh and jerky, your horse is too small for you, or you're too heavy.
Of late, many veterinarians are suggesting that we should always use mounting blocks when getting on a horse to protect their backs.
When stepping in a stirrup and mounting from the ground, we place a twisting force on their spines.
And because many riders jerk to get a leg up, it's a more severe twisting force.
We have two related articles that will provide you with more in-depth information about this topic:
The Lowly Mounting Block
Mounting Pressures
October 13, 2009 – SHORT SHANK BITS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Are short shank bits harsh?
All bits have the potential for being harsh.
And shank bits provide the rider with additional leverage to hurt the horse's mouth even more.
Shank bits should not be used by new riders; the potential to cause the horse pain by an accidental rider panic is just too great.
Experienced riders with a very light touch can use a shank bit more effectively without causing said pain.
But you need to remember that the whole premise of using a bit in the first place is not only to signal the horse, but to do so in a way that can cause pain if he doesn't listen.
Fortunately, the harsh, "break their spirit" methods of the past are giving way to the more enlightened ways of training horses that we're seeing more of today.
In fact, I know several people that ride their horses with the reins connected to the sides of a halter — there is no bit, no hackamore, and the horses listen very well.
Of course, using that approach will not work without patience and time training a horse and earning its trust to be able to ride with nothing more than just a halter.
October 12, 2009 – SADDLE PAD SLIDING OUT BACK
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm having a problem with my saddle pad sliding out the back of my saddle while riding.
What should I do?
I've experienced this problem myself, but not on all horses and not with all saddles.
It generally occurs with English or Australian saddles more than with western saddles.
And that's not really a surprise when you realize that they're very similar in shape in that an Australian saddle is very much like a large dressage saddle.
The first thing to check is whether or not your girth/cinch is tight enough.
You don't want it to be highly compressing your horse's chest, but you also don't want it loose.
The pad doesn't just slide by itself.
Rather, it's the result of a combination of motions, usually while cantering or galloping (but especially cantering).
Essentially, when you rise during the up motion of cantering, if the saddle is too loose, it will also rise.
There is also a forward component to cantering and when you and the saddle come back down, you're both now at a slightly more forward position on the saddle pad.
Then you, the saddle, and the pad, all slide back a small amount and the process continues with the rise again.
As this process repeats itself during your ride, you find that your pad has been incrementally ratcheted backward between horse and saddle until quite a bit of the pad is hanging out the back and the front part of the saddle is now sitting directly on your horse's back.
This is not a good situation — you don't want to ride with part of your saddle directly on the horse or without a saddle pad altogether.
The pad helps cushion the downward forces and also fills any gaps between the saddle tree and the changes of the horse's back that occur as he gains and loses weight throughout the year.
And without a pad, tightening the cinch/girth would force hard parts of the saddle tree directly against the horse's back making that area tender and chaffing it through movement — bad stuff.
If tightening the girth/cinch doesn't solve your problem, then look for a pad that has retaining straps that go around the flap — that will help keep the saddle and pad moving together.
You'll find such pads at many tack shops and at most online, tack dealers.
Even then, make sure the girth/cinch is not too loose and that you ride with a balanced seat.
October 9, 2009 – ADJUSTING TRAILER BALL HEIGHT
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What is a typical trailer ball height above the ground so I can buy a trailer with a coupler at the right height?
There really isn't any "typical ball height" — it depends on the trailer.
Many people think it depends on the tow vehicle, but it doesn't.
Instead, the receiver on the tow vehicle accepts a drawbar that is either level or has a "rise" or a "drop" to accommodate the coupler height connected to the trailer.
You want to select the amount of rise or drop to make the trailer's tongue level when connected to your tow vehicle.
I've seen trailer tongue heights vary from a low of 10 inches to over 22 inches — I'm sure there are some trailer tongues that are even lower and higher.
So, if your trailer tongue is at 12 inches above the ground and your tow vehicle is at 18 inches, that means you need a drawbar with a drop of 5 inches to make the trailer run level.
The photo above left shows such a drop to level the trailer's tongue.
The other photo shows several drawbars offering different drops.
Such drawbars can be reversed to provide a "rise" instead, if needed.
October 8, 2009 – SMALL TOW VEHICLES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What small vehicles can tow a horse trailer?
We get this question a lot in various flavors, so I assume many people want to trailer their horse, but don't have a truck and don't want to get one if they can avoid it.
The problem you have with using small vehicles for towing is that you don't ever, ever want the tow vehicle to be towed by the trailer.
If the tow vehicle is too light compared to the trailer, that is what you risk.
You can image what that might feel like as you follow the trailer, with no control over your own vehicle, over some embankment and into the trees, or worse, the water.
Essentially, a small, light vehicle can only pull a small, light trailer.
Once you're talking horses, by law, the trailer must have two axles and be able to carry the weight of the horse.
Even for a one-horse trailer, you're looking at 800 - 900 pounds minimum plus the weight of the trailer that will be at least 1,300 pounds for the lightest trailer — and it's all uphill from there.
So, you're over 2,000 pounds with the lightest, and likely flimsiest of trailers.
A more substantial trailer will weigh more with good-quality 2-horse trailers weighing around 2,400 pounds empty, with no dressing room, and before tack, hay, horse, and anything else you may throw in there.
So, your tow vehicle needs to be rated to be able to tow at least 3,500 pound, more to have a cushion.
When you actually get to hauling a couple of horses, you need to have a vehicle that's rated to tow at least 5,000 pounds.
And even then, you don't want to use a vehicle with too short a wheelbase, such as some SUVs.
You can learn more with these articles on QueryHorse:
Tow Vehicles
Common Trailering Questions
And you can see more trailering information at:
Trucks & Trailering
October 7, 2009 – RIDE IN HORSE TRAILER?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can I travel in the horse trailer with my horse when it's windy to keep him calm?
He's afraid when the wind blows.
In most states, it's illegal to ride in a moving trailer of any kind, whether a horse trailer, camper, or anything else.
In your case, being in an enclosed space with a spooked horse is a bad idea even if it isn't in motion — worse if in a moving vehicle.
Besides intentional movement by your horse, a sharp turn, an abrupt stop, or an accident could cause you to be accidently crushed by your horse.
You need to travel up front in the tow vehicle.
Only another horse, donkey, mule, or similarly sized animal, properly secured, should ride with your horse to keep him company.
October 6, 2009 – DIGGING PADDOCK POSTHOLES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I need to dig some post holes to install a new paddock.
Is there any easier way than using a posthole digger by hand?
Well, the next step up is to use a gasoline powered augur.
This is usually a two-man device enclosing a small engine with handles on the side.
From underneath, the augur is driven to spin and dig a hole.
It's easier and faster to use than digging by hand, but in rocky soil, it can jerk the two of you around quite a bit.
Such a unit doesn't need to be purchased; many rental equipment shops have them.
The best and easiest way to dig postholes is to use a tractor that has an augur on the back driven by the tractor's PTO (power take-off).
The weight of the tractor provides great stability and hitting rocks is much less of a problem because the tractor can deal with large rocks than the handheld augur.
Also, the tractor has much more power and can drive a deeper and larger diameter augur if necessary.
If you have a large enough tractor already with a Category 1 3-point hitch, you can buy and augur, or rent one just to do your current job.
If you have no tractor or the one you have is too small, many rental shops do rent tractors with augurs on them.
Good luck!
October 5, 2009 – BREAK-AWAY BRAKE BATTERY CONDITION
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I presume that the battery for the break away brake on my trailer only gets charged when I tow it?
Possibly, unless you also have a solar cell panel on the trailer roof that charges it, but I haven't yet seen a trailer advertised with that accessory.
Very possibly, your break-away brake battery is not getting charged at all.
While some trailers do have a charging circuit that charges that battery when the trailer is connected to the tow vehicle, most do not.
Instead, they depend upon the trailer owner to occasionally place the battery on a trickle charger every few months.
And if you've ever tested or had to use the break-away brake, chances are good that your battery is either mostly discharged or completely dead.
You should refer to your trailer owner's manual or contact the trailer manufacturer to determine whether or not your trailer has a charger and what to do.
Even those trailers with a charger only charge the battery when it's connected to the tow vehicle as you have surmised.
Therefore, the rarely used trailer is likely to have a low or no charge in the battery.
And after about five years, the battery should definitely be tested to determine whether or not it can even hold a charge — it may need to be replaced with a new battery.
Oh!
And never purchase a "reconditioned" battery — ALWAYS buy new.
You and your horses cannot afford to not have this battery working if ever needed.
October 2, 2009 – HORSE DOESN'T LISTEN WHEN RIDING IN A GROUP
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse doesn't listen to me when on a group ride.
Why does she always want to do what the group does?
This issue manifests itself much more for trail riders than for those disciplines that work mainly in rings and arenas where everyone essentially stays together in a relatively small space on the farm.
It's been a common thread through many of the questions submitted to the "Horse Girl" and to this column.
Of course, the reason horses are herd animals is because they're prey animals, and hundreds of thousands of years of evolution have shown them instinctually that traveling in a herd offers "group protection" and results in a longer lifespan.
So, if that's true, what can we do about it regarding the control of our own horse when riding with a group?
For starters, we need to regularly show and continue to show our horses that we are their leader, the boss, that we'll guide them, will keep them safe, and will get them back home every time we take them out.
Over time, they really do learn that they can safely listen to us and trust us to keep them safe and alive.
Yes, they'll test us frequently and we must be ready to respond consistently to prove that we're paying attention and are on top of the situation.
This is normal horse behavior and horses do that amongst themselves in testing the herd alpha regularly — they're not going to treat us any differently.
While I advocate the foregoing and live by this credo, my own horse still tests me all the time and sometimes gets away with something he knows he's not supposed to do, such as snatching some leaves or grass while we're riding.
He's always paying attention and if I'm talking with fellow riders, he knows there's a better chance he'll get that quick bite.
Some trainers have done so well with their horse that the group can take off at a canter or gallop and their horse won't even budge an inch without their rider's permission.
They may squirm and make pleading noises, but they won't take off with the herd.
My own horse will definitely want to stay with the group and will do so unless I explicitly stop him — he won't like it, but he'll listen.
The fact he doesn't like it doesn't surprise me, after all, he thinks he'll be safer if they all stay together.
But if I disagree, he'll yield to my decision (though he'll initially squirm and make the aforementioned noises).
In your case, you've already stated that your horse won't listen to you, therefore, I think you should enlist the help of a trainer to help you gain control and assure that you can always control your horse, especially in group situations.
I've ridden with too many riders that don't want the group to exceed a trot because they're afraid they won't be able to stop their horse in a canter or gallop — that's not only a scary feeling for any rider to have, it's not safe if the horse is making the decisions while you're on top.
It's completely ok if your horse prefers to stay with the group as long as he still listens to your commands — it's not ok and is dangerous if he doesn't listen to you and you're not in full control (you're also missing out on the great fun of cantering and galloping that your horse will also enjoy).
If you'd like to start on your own in making your horse less herd bound so you can separate him from a group out on the trail, see our article entitled: Fixing the Herd-Bound Horse.
But don't "blow off" getting a trainer involved.
You need to be able to control your horse or you could get hurt — a lot of that training is going to be for you and building your own confidence.
Once you can control your horse and you know it, you'll enjoy riding much, much more than you do now.
October 1, 2009 – LOWERING CENTER OF GRAVITY?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How can I lower my horse's center of gravity when I ride?
I'd love to know what would precipitate such a question.
There is nothing you can do to lower your horse's center of gravity, nor should concern yourself with this.
If you have a healthy horse, he is more than capable of moving himself quickly and adroitly in whatever way needed.
More important is to understand the joint center of gravity when you're mounted on your horse.
You want to place your saddle properly so that your center of gravity is over his.
You also want to sit balanced, straight up in the center of the saddle with your heals down and your hands properly placed low in front of you holding the reins.
In this way, your horse should be able to move quickly and easily without you feeling like a "dead weight" or a "squirmy worm" on his back.
The latter is particularly hard for a horse because he wants to stay under you so that you don't fall, yet, he also doesn't want to fall himself because you keep moving around and upsetting his balance.
This is hard enough at the walk — it's especially critical when at speed and when jumping.
One more thing, don't just try to affix your saddle over what you think is your horse's center of gravity.
Check with an experienced rider, your trainer, or a saddle expert.
You need to assure that the saddle is the proper one for your horse and then follow that with putting it in the proper place on his back.
Too many people use a borrowed saddle, a saddle from another horse, or some such without any idea of whether it properly fits the horse or not.
Such use is not only dangerous when riding, it can also permanently harm your horse's back.
If you meant something else from your question that I didn't address, please submit again and I'll be happy to respond.
September 30, 2009 – SAFE TRAIL SADDLE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My friend says that aussie saddles are the safest for the trails, is that really true?
I feel that every saddle has its purpose and use the best one I can find designed for whatever task I'm doing.
As for trail riding, I do feel that an Australian saddle is the best for that application.
In fact, I believe that so much that I bought my own Aussie saddle last year and it's my primary trail saddle.
I started as an English rider and still use an English saddle when taking jumping lessons during the winters.
For the trails, I used to use a western saddle because it provided more support with a higher cantle and higher pommel than afforded by an English design.
A western saddle is also more comfortable for the long hours you expect to spend in one out on the range or the trail.
You sit back a little more and your legs are less bent than when riding English tack.
A couple of years ago, I started a somewhat involved saddle search and investigation.
I wanted to sit in many different saddles, wanted to try those I'd never used before, such as Aussie and dressage saddles.
I also wanted to learn much more about their construction, their trees, about treeless saddles, etc., etc.
What I learned is that saddle comfort varies across many manufacturers lines.
Generally, their more expensive saddles are more comfortable than their cheaper versions.
But what drove me most toward an Australian saddle was safety.
Horses are more likely to spook out on the trail than in any other scenario because that's where the unpredictable is most likely to occur.
That can be a dog jumping out of the bushes, bikes, motorcycles, ATVs, groups of dogs barking, surprised deer, and almost anything else that rarely torment horses in the arena.
Those knee poleys are designed to keep the rider in the saddle whether going down steep hills or if the horse abruptly stops, shies, spins, bucks, almost anything.
And I've experienced all of those scenarios, some occurring many times since purchasing my Aussie saddle and have never left that saddle once.
Even some violent bucking on a friend's horse using my saddle didn't drop my keester to the ground — that was compelling!
And experience shows that you generally don't get hurt until you hit the ground — avoid hitting the ground and you get hurt and bruised much less.
My Australian saddle also has a deeper cantle and higher pommel than any western saddle I've used or seen.
That means still more support and increased safety.
And, however the manufacturer did it, it's even the most comfortable saddle I've ever ridden in.
That's particularly important to me because my friends and I tend to take long rides, such as the 3-4 hour rides we had the last two weekends (gorgeous weather here in autumn).
If you'd like to read about my own saddle investigation experiences, see the multi-part series on this Website entitled: The Saddle Search – Part 1.
September 29, 2009 – GPS WITH BAROMETER
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm looking at different GPS units for trail riding.
One of the features I'm considering is the ability to monitor barometric pressure so I can tell if bad weather is coming while I'm out on the trail.
Do you know if this feature works well enough to see oncoming storms?
Quite frankly, I think you're fooling yourself to trust your weather safety on reading barometric pressure out in the field.
The barometric pressure is going to go up or down significantly just because of the change in altitude you might experience when riding up or down hills.
Yet, those changes due to altitude changes you're making will be unrelated to weather phenomenon.
Also, changes in pressure as a result of a low-pressure storm front moving in are usually slow and gradual (except in the mountains — see below).
Therefore, it's not likely you'll see much happening if you're just out riding for a few hours.
A much better idea is to get a GPS that includes a weather radio feature, or you can just buy a small, portable weather radio to carry on your rides.
That way, you'll be able to get weather forecasts and weather alerts in real time from those actually tracking and forecasting the weather.
And you also want to watch the weather forecasts on the days prior to your rides so you know what's coming your way.
Mountain Weather
If you're riding in the mountains, you need to always be prepared by carrying clothing and maybe even camping supplies that will allow you to quickly build a shelter at a moment's notice.
Mountain weather can change very quickly on a small, local level that often eludes the wider-scale forecasting normally provided by traditional weather services.
Yet, the weather variations occurring on a small scale, such as those typical in the mountains can cause large temperature swings that will come on in just 20 minutes or so and last for several hours, such as a 40 or 50°F temperature drop.
Such rapid, extreme changes are dangerous and more than one hiker has been found dead on a mountainside during a warm summer day due to a freak storm that came upon him in mere minutes when he was unprepared.
It then warmed up again several hours later just as quickly.
Technology is very impressive and keeps getting better.
But unfortunately, it's not yet at a point that will save us from such extremes.
Avoiding bad weather altogether or being prepared for it when it occurs is the only realistically safe option available to us at this time.
We have a GPS-related article you may be interested in reading entitled: A GPS for Trail Riding.
September 28, 2009 – AUTUMN RIDING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it more dangerous to ride in the fall than the summer?
Each season has some risk associated with it.
For example, in the summer, dehydration and heat prostration are some of the risks as well as toxic bites from certain insects.
In autumn, those risks fade as others take their place.
Consider the following regarding riding in fall:
- Increased spookiness of the horses due to wind noise and the movement of leaves, branches, and debris that wind causes.
See our article entitled: Horses and Wind;
- Slippery conditions caused by wet leaves.
The tops of the exposed leaves may be dry, but moisture will remain between leaves and they can be very slick causing you and your horse to fall;
- Chance of unexpected hypothermia if you get wet.
Many riders feel that hypothermia isn't a risk in the 50-70 degree range often seen in temperate climates during the autumn months, but if you get wet and stay that way far from the barn, even if just for 30 minutes, your body temperature can quickly drop dangerously low — windy conditions will accelerate the cooling and the risk;
- In many states, hunters are out in force during the autumn months and riders need to wear orange and be aware that they're now sharing the forest and fields with people carrying and firing live ammo — be vigilant and make yourself obvious!
- With dryer and windy conditions, fire is more of a risk.
You could be the cause if you camp without due safety, or you might be running from someone else's mistake — be alert!
There are other risks, but you get the idea.
You don't want to avoid riding and enjoying this beautiful planet in any season, but you do want to use common sense and be careful so you'll return safely and be able to go out riding again another day.
September 25, 2009 – HAY QUALITY
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How can I tell if the hay I'm buying is of good quality?
Hay is actually a somewhat complex product in its variations, where it's grown, when it's harvested, how it's stored, etc.
The response to your question is therefore more than a simple answer can provide.
Fortunately, there are many articles on the net delving into this topic.
One of them that I particularly like is on the University of Maryland Website entitled: Evaluating Hay Quality.
September 24, 2009 – PAINTING A STOCK TRAILER
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How much does it cost to paint a stock trailer?
In all honesty, I don't know the answer to your question.
If you were asking about an enclosed trailer, it's probably around the price to paint a car plus a little extra for the additional paint needed to cover a larger surface.
But a stock trailer is more labor intensive even though it will require less paint.
The only advice I can give is to take the trailer to a local paint shop for an estimate.
If you decide to do the job yourself, it should be relatively cheap and cost no more than a couple hundred dollars for the paint, brushes, etc.
Of course, it will be time consuming.
If you have a compressor and spray gun, the work will go faster, easier, and provide a better finish, but it will use more paint because lots of it will blow by the structural members.
Good luck!
September 23, 2009 – TRAILER MARKER LAMPS KEEP FAILING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
The marker lights on my horse trailer are always failing.
I try changing the bulb and it still doesn't work.
Sometimes, a good wack will fix it temporarily, but then it that light will fail again.
Any idea of the problem?
Actually, I do.
The tipoff is when you mentioned that a bulb change often doesn't work while giving the fixture a wack does, but just for a short time.
The likely problem is that the ground wire for the light is connected to a screw that screws into the trailer's body.
That screw or the body it screws into has likely corroded.
When you hit it, it makes contact for a short time and then corrodes again.
Probably the best thing to do is to open the fixture, identify the screw being used to ground that light, remove it, and go to your local hardware store.
Get replacement screws made of stainless steel and make sure you get enough to replace all the ground screws in all the marker lights.
If the fixture allows, you may want to get one screw size larger.
If you do, driving the new screws could be somewhat harder or you may even have to pre-drill with the right-sized bit for the new screw.
That will assure you have a clean, non-corroded edge on the screw hole to contact the new screws.
Note that this fix may not be permanent even though the new screws are stainless steel.
That will depend on the material of the trailer body.
If it's steel, the edge will likely corrode again over time.
However, it should work for a longer period of time with the stainless steel screws.
If the body is aluminum, that should work great for a very long time.
September 22, 2009 – HORSES AVOID GRAZING IN CERTAIN AREAS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horses seem to waste some of their grazing by not eating the grass in those areas.
Why won't they eat it?
How can I make them eat it all?
There may be several reasons:
- They may be using that area as their bathroom and don't want to mix that with their food supply.
If they did, they could get very sick and/or get parasites from one another;
- They may not like the taste of the grass/plants in that particular area;
- The grass/plants in that area may toxic to them and they knowingly avoid it;
- There may have been something toxic or distasteful dumped there at some prior time (oil, chemicals, etc.);
- There may be other life forms in the area with which they don't want to interact (bees/wasps, snakes, etc.).
Generally, horses will avoid an area or the eating of its plants for a good reason.
Don't try to make them graze in that area by limiting their grazing elsewhere just so you can feel your entire pasture is used.
You could be making your horses eat something to survive that they know they should otherwise avoid.
Doing so could make them very sick or even kill them.
September 21, 2009 – SADDLE PLACED TOO FAR BACK
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What kind of problems are caused by a saddle placed too far back?
A too far back placement can cause many minor and major problems:
- It will make it harder for your horse to carry you because you won't be over his center of balance;
- At minimum, it will require more of his energy and he'll be more tired than if you were properly riding him;
- He may carry himself improperly causing foot and leg pain or even permanent damage;
- It can result in your horse getting a sore back or could cause a severe back injury;
- Such saddle placement will make it harder for him to stay balanced through his gaits and is even more dangerous for both of you if you should jump him.
From the foregoing, you can see that proper saddle placement is a critical aspect of safe and healthy riding for both your horse and for you.
And the heavier you are, the worse all of the problems above will be for your horse.
September 18, 2009 – CANTERING ON HARD SURFACES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Will it harm a horse to canter on concrete or asphalt?
Yes, it can.
Just as runners purchase running shoes to provide cushioning to run on harder surfaces, you need to run only on surfaces that provide the same kind of cushioning for your horse.
That can be a grass or sand surface, or something like pine needles or snow.
But it definitely isn't concrete or asphalt, and running your horse on such surfaces risks giving them shin splints or worse — don't do it.
September 17, 2009 – WIND AND TRAILERING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it dangerous to pull a horse trailer on a windy day?
It can be; it depends upon the conditions, your driving speed, and other factors.
Because this topic is somehwat involved, I decided to write a more comprehensive response in the form of an article.
It's entitled: Wind and Trailering.
September 16, 2009 – GALLOPING IN THE WINTER
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can you gallop a horse in the winter?
We're not into cold weather yet and are actually just starting to enter autumn, but here's the scoop on cold weather riding.
Yes, horses can gallop in cold weather.
BUT, you want to be cautious about certain aspects.
First, make sure the condition of the ground is appropriate and safe.
That means that you're not going to be running on ice or directly on frozen ground.
Any slippery surface is a potential danger to both you and your horse if a slip and fall were to occur or if you both slid into a rock, wall, tree, or some other object because of insufficient traction.
As for hard ground, running on it could give your horse shin splints.
Second, a horse that isn't in shape should not be overly exerted in cold weather.
Out of shape humans and mammals face increased chances of heart attacks, and also to strokes due to high blood pressure when they over-exert in the cold weather.
Therefore, if your horse is not in good physical condition with frequent exercise and work, running him in cold weather is definitely not good for him and could result in serious injury or death.
Third, even if he is in shape, give your horse time to warm up before you speed up.
And then, speed up slowly so that muscles can gradually warm before you make them work harder.
If you work him too hard, too fast, you can cause muscle damage.
Finally, remember that working hard burns more calories and causes more heat -- don't push for too long and make your horse sweat.
When he stops, that moisture is going to cause rapid cooling in cold, dry air potentially leading to hypothermia.
Generally, it's better to be active in the cold months, but not at the same hard pace as during the warmer months.
Enjoy the cold weather with our four-legged friends, but protect them from injury and the elements in the same way you should be protecting yourself.
September 15, 2009 – TRAILER BRAKES ARE NECESSARY
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Do horse trailers really need their own breaks?
YES!!!
They definitely do.
Any substantial trailer with its payload requires its own brakes.
Without them, you'll put too much force on the brakes of the tow vehicle.
Not only will they wear out quickly, more dangerously, they could overheat, fade, and completely fail under a hard stop.
Then, you'd have no brakes at all on the tow vehicle and the trailer — not exactly the kind of situation in which I'd like to find myself, especially with my horse, friends, or other loved ones aboard.
September 14, 2009 – HORSE HIT BY CAR
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How do I stop some small amount of bleeding after my horse was lightly hit by a car?
CALL THE VET IMMEDIATELY!
There's no such thing as being hit lightly when there's bleeding.
This is not something that you should handle by yourself — horse's life depends on it.
Besides the bleeding, your horse could have internal injuries or cracked or broken bones.
He needs x-rays and a professional to examine him.
CALL THE VET NOW!
September 11, 2009 – TENDERFOOTED-HORSE RIDING THE TRAILS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How do you trail ride a horse with tender feet?
You really have only three options:
- Ride your horse only on soft ground;
- Shoe the horse; or
- Use hoof boots.
Because my horse now lives barefoot all the time, I use hoof boots.
They have worked out very well for us and allow us to ride any trails as well as dirt, gravely, or rocky roads and terrain without his feet getting sore — highly recommended!
I spoke a little about how well such boots work in a response posted on July 20, 2009.
You'll find that post in the "Horse Guy" Archive.
September 10, 2009 – SLIPPING SADDLE PAD
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I ride English and my saddle pad keeps slipping out from under the saddle; any suggestions?
I've had this problem myself.
Make sure your girth is tight enough.
A loose girth can be dangerous as well as causing the problem you're describing.
Numnah
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You also can look for a saddle pad (a numnah when riding with an English saddle) that has girth straps that go around the girth.
Or you slip the girth through them.
Some numnahs have straps that go around the lower portion of the saddle flap instead.
Generally, these straps use velco to tie to each other over the flap.
Make sure the straps are tight and they should cause the saddle and pad to stay together.
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With either method, the straps will further help to keep the saddle and pad together.
September 9, 2009 – AVOIDING A HORSE KICK
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How far behind can a horse kick?
And how safe is it to walk behind my own horse?
Most horses can kick at least three feet behind themselves, some can even reach four feet.
So, every person should always take precautions when walking behind any horse, even our own horse that may completely trust us.
The reason is that, even if he/she does really trust us and would never kick us on purpose, if startled, normal horse instinct is to kick first and investigate after.
To be cautious means to stay out of kicking range.
That means we should stay at least five feet or more away from the back end of a horse.
If we need to be near the horse, such as when grooming, drag your hand along his back as you walk around his back-end so that he knows where you are at all times.
It might also help to talk as you do, so he'll feel AND HEAR your location as you come around.
Finally, when passing behind, walk very closely so that in the unlikely event that the horse does kick, his legs will not have developed full power yet and the injury will be much less than it could have been.
September 8, 2009 – HITCH BALL RATINGS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is a 2-inch hitch ball enough for a horse trailer?
That depends on several factors.
The ball, whatever size it is, needs to be rated to handle the complete weight of the trailer and its entire payload.
So, if a small two horse trailer weighs 2,800 pounds and it can accept a maximum payload of 3,000 pounds including the horses and all tack and other items you'll carry, that totals 4,800 pounds and a 2-inch ball rated at 5,000 or 6,000 pounds will work.
But many two horse trailers can carry up to 7,000 pounds of horse and supporting materials, plus their own weight of something more like 3,000 pounds means you'll have at least 10,000 pounds being pulled by that hitch ball.
You can find 2-inch hitch balls with up to an 8,000 or even a 10,000 pound capacity, but they're not very common and most 2-inch balls stop at 6,000 pounds.
The larger 2 5/16 -inch balls are usually rated at 10,000 or 12,000 pounds.
However, it's the trailer manufacturer that will determine the hitch ball size because they select and mount the hitch coupler to the trailers they manufacture and the coupler will mate with only the one size hitch ball for which it is designed.
At this time, most of the 2-horse bumper-pull horse trailers I've seen employ 2 5/16 hitch balls except on one-horse trailers and the smaller two-horse trailers.
For more information, see our comprehensive hitch article entitled: Getting Properly Hitched.
September 4, 2009 – LEARNING TO TRAIL RIDE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How many lessons do I have to take until I can trail ride?
Well, it's not so much the number of lessons, it's more a matter of when you can properly and safely control a horse on the trail.
First, there's the aspect of actually learning to ride and control a horse.
That means you ride in a balanced manner, can motivate, slow, turn, and stop a horse, can ride the gaits of trot, canter, and gallop as well as calm the horse if something spooks him, etc.
Second, unlike in an enclosed space, such as a ring or arena, the trail is pretty much unpredictable and you'll often get surprises from dogs, cyclists, cars, motorcycles, wild animals (deer, foxes, birds, etc.), hunters firing guns, insects (bees and wasps), park workers (mowers, chainsaws, etc.), and much, much more.
Riding on the trail involves even more control and trust from your horse.
That means it's generally desirable for a horse to know his rider somewhat so he trusts you.
And if a horse ever spooked enough to jump into a gallop, you now understand why you'd need to be able to initially ride the gallop, then use your ability to control him to slow him down.
Finally, you don't say whether you're planning on riding with others or alone.
The safest way to ride the trails is with other riders.
That way, if you or your horse ever got hurt, there are others around to help out and stay with you as well as to go get professional help if it's needed.
That doesn't mean you can never ride alone — many people do, including me.
But I don't go as far away as I might when riding with a group of friends.
Why not find a barn that specializes in trail riding instruction.
You'll end up going trail riding quite soon on a walking trail ride and those rides will get faster and more exciting as your riding and horse-controlling skills improve.
And even more importantly, it'll be safer as well as lots of fun!
You'll also meet other riders interested in the same riding discipline as you are.
September 3, 2009 – ALCOHOL WIPES AND OTHER ANTISEPTICS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Will alcohol wipes make a wound sting?
Possibly a little, but it shouldn't be much.
If you have doubts, try one on yourself the next time you get scraped or get a wound.
Regardless, the most important thing to do is to kill infection at the wound when an injury occurs, even if it stings a little.
If you find your horse does react badly to an alcohol wipe, you can keep some fresh hydrogen peroxide at the barn.
When you open a bottle and apply it to a wound, it must foam.
If it doesn't, the extra oxygen that performs the germ killing function has off-gassed into the atmosphere and you're left with water in that bottle.
In that case, you'll need to use a different antiseptic.
Hydrogen peroxide has to be fresh to work and kill germs — it does not sting at all when it works.
Finally, if you're a trail rider, carrying a tube of an antiseptic ointment (e.g. Neosporin®) is a good idea and doesn't sting, so it, too, will be fine to use on a sensitive horse as well as yourself.
Other than that, there's probably nothing else that will be as easy to carry for this purpose as several packets of alcohol wipes.
They have a long shelf-life and will likely be effective after several years as long as they remain sealed and moist inside.
If you feel you can't use them on your horse, they'll still be available in case you or your riding friends get scraped while out on the trail, so they're good to have along.
September 2, 2009 – SECURING A HORSE TRAILER FROM THEFT
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I just bought my first trailer and heard horror stories of people coming out of a show or back to a trail head and finding their trailer was stolen right off their truck.
How can I protect against such a loss?
Well, insurance helps.
But there are also locking products you can buy that will secure the hitch coupler to the ball and the drawbar to the receiver.
There are also locking pins for goosenecks and fifth wheels.
The best source of these products I've found to date is TRIMAX.
You can buy directly from them or from many retailers carrying their products.
September 1, 2009 – REMOVING HORSE URINE ODOR
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What can I use to clean urine out of a horse trailer?
There are two products that come to mind for this application.
Both break down urine components of horse urine and that of other animals, such as cats and dogs.
They are ANTI ICKY POO and a search on the net will yield many sources.
The other is Nok-out.
Both claim to be completely safe for humans and animals.
August 31, 2009 – HORSE STUMBLING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Why does my horse frequently stumble during a riding lesson?
Your horse could be stumbling for several reasons.
Below are some of them:
- There could be a problem with his feet or legs affecting his gait or causing lameness — have your vet look at his feet, legs, and the way he moves;
- There could be a problem with the upper skeletal structure of the back, hips, spine, or shoulders — have your vet check them for problems;
- The saddle could be fitting improperly causing your horse pain, and again, to walk in an improper fashion — have a vet check your horse's gaits and/or a saddle expert checkout the fit of the saddle;
- The horse's equilibrium could be affected by something — have your vet check the horse's sense of balance, whether the horse has had a concussion, whether he has plugged tear ducts, etc.;
- There is a problem with a hoof, its trim, or a shoe — have your farrier check these areas and the shoe fit if your horse is shoed;
- The rider is out of balance forcing your horse to assume an unnatural position to keep from falling — have a riding instructor review the rider's technique in the saddle at all gaits and offer corrections to riding style;
- Your horse is not paying attention because he is bored with his training regimen — breakup the training to give it more variety, or better yet, take your horse out on a trail ride occasionally so he can have some fun and freedom.
This approach helps most any horse have a better outlook on life and generally improves his normal work and training routine.
As you can see from the foregoing, many of the causes require a veterinarian examination.
This is likely the best place to start because you want to rule out medical causes BEFORE you explore other areas so you don't a ignore a medical problem that could further or permanently harm your horse.
August 28, 2009 – TOW VEHICLE ENGINE SIZE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What size engine is needed to haul horses?
There is no simple answer for such a broad question.
A general answer would be, "the bigger, the better".
More practically, the tow vehicle needs to be sized for the trailer you're going to tow.
Obviously, a truck hauling an 8-horse trailer needs a bigger engine than one hauling a 2-horse model.
Plus, whether the trailer is a stock, fully enclosed, or a combination living quarters/horse trailer type will also significantly affect the weight being pulled.
And it's not just a matter of engine size, the weight of the tow vehicle and the size and strength of its frame are also important.
In fact, the tow vehicle must get heavier as the trailer gets heavier or the roles could get reversed when something gets unstable — the trailer will then tow the truck — definitely NO JOY!
If you can provide more information, such as the size of the horse trailer you want to pull, its style, and whether it's for standard or draft horses, I can offer more specific recommendations.
August 27, 2009 – A CRIBBING TEACHER?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can a horse learn to crib from another horse?
This has been passed along as a truth for a long time.
Current research is indicating that cribbers have a genetic predisposition to the habit.
That means they will begin cribbing at some time in their lives, usually at some point where they are highly stressed, such as being separated from another horse with which they've bonded.
One other outcome of recent research is that horses that do have the predisposition might start to crib earlier than they would have if they're with a horse that already cribs.
It's also important to remember that they would become cribbers at some point anyway.
The research also indicates that horses without the genetic predisposition will never crib, even if surrounded by a barn or paddock full of cribbers.
Therefore, there is no reason to fear having a cribber in your barn or mixing him/her with other horses.
Also, cribbing occurs in only about 1% of all horses and is not observed in the wild.
That implies that cribbing is caused to some extent by the conditions we provide for our horses and that being outside with ample pasture will minimize the habit.
Keeping horses stalled will increase their stress and boredom levels and contribute to activating that genetic predisposition sooner, and possibly more intensively than might have otherwise occurred.
August 26, 2009 – CARRYING A HALTER WHILE RIDING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How can I carry a halter on a trail ride?
The way I do it is by using a halter/bridle combination.
When I pull the bit, my horse is now wearing a halter and it has the standard ring underneath and one on each side.
If you prefer to continue using a regular bridle for riding, you can carry a separate halter in a cantle or saddlebag.
I've also carried one by strapping it to a spare D-ring on my saddle.
A halter can even be placed in a big pocket of a coat you're wearing during the ride — they bunch up pretty well.
August 25, 2009 – TOWING LIMITS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Am I ok going just a little over the gross weight of my trailer, like just 4 or 5%?
I'm sorry, I can't condone going over any safety limits.
The manufacturers of the tow vehicle and the trailer go to a lot of effort to design and engineer each to a set of specifications.
Do they include some safety factor?
Of course they do.
But I don't know what that is.
In addition, it is against the law to exceed these limits.
Another thing to consider is that parts wear and corrode over time.
Obviously, they will give out with a heavier load sooner than with a lighter load.
So, if you can actually operate somewhat below the ratings, you have an extra measure of insurance.
When I consider that my life, the life of my passengers, the life of my horse and another horse I might be towing, and then the lives of others with which I share the highways are all in the balance, I feel I have just too much riding on my decisions to start cutting corners that might jeopardize some or all of those lives.
August 24, 2009 – HOW DO YOU CARRY A MAP OR GPS?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm trying to find some way to carry a map and compass or a GPS when on the trail.
I want it to be conveniently accessible so I don't have to keep it in my hand while riding.
Any suggestions?
I carry both on my trail rides.
The map and compass are carried in my cantle bag, and they form a backup in case my GPS should stop working for any reason.
I keep the GPS in a pouch on my belt, just as I do my cell phone.
I keep both on my person so that if I ever became separated from my horse, I would still have both with me (I doubt he'll use them).
For convenience, a pommel bag works well.
It's not as big as a cantle bag, but more than big enough for map, GPS, plus a snack, and it'll mount to the pommel right in front of you where it will be very easy to access.
Plus, a pommel bag will mount on almost all saddle types from English and Western to Australian and endurance saddles.
August 21, 2009 – JUMPING STRESSES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Does jumping put stresses on a horse's legs?
If so, how much stress?
This is difficult for me to answer, because this is not my area of expertise: I'm not a veterinarian nor any kind of expert in equine anatomy.
But I can provide some general information for you to think about.
Obviously, horses can jump and do naturally use their ability on occasion both at play and to run and jump from a source of perceived danger.
The fact that we humans love to jump while riding our horses complicates the matter for the following reasons:
- Horses need to use extra strength and energy to jump with the added weight of a rider and tack on their backs;
- More importantly, horses are landing and absorbing greater associated forces in their muscles and limbs because of that extra weight;
- Horses would definitely not jump as frequently on their own as we ask them to do;
- Horses would not generally jump much higher than 24 or 30 inches in the normal course of their activities, so we ask them to jump higher as well as more often, especially if participating in show jumping and its associated practice between shows.
The foregoing doesn't mean that a horse is injured or somehow diminished by jumping.
Rather, we need to keep in mind that we're increasing the chances of injury or permanent damage by indulging in jumping and we should be careful about what and how often we do it.
Many horses used in jumping enjoy doing so with their riders.
The important thing is to learn to ride, jump, and land properly, to be observant and aware of our horse's condition at all times, to not push whenever there is a problem, and to have the vet review our horse's condition regularly and especially when an injury is suspected.
Don't push a horse to jump higher than he/she is able and don't overdue it.
August 20, 2009 – SURVEYING YOUR HORSE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm a fairly new rider (2 years) and just bought my first horse.
I kind of feel I should check her over from time to time to make sure she's ok, but I'm not sure how to go about it.
So far, I walk around her in her stall and try to look at every part of her body before grooming her.
Am I doing ok?
Is there any better way?
Yes, there is!
And I want to commend you for being concerned and wanting to check your horse.
But rather than just doing it "from time to time" as you said, I recommend you do it every time you visit her.
Horses can be injured and will often act normally if the pain is not too bad.
But we don't want to just let them suffer, or worse, get infected and threaten their life.
By thoroughly checking them over every time we visit, we can detect problems early and right after they've happened.
So, if you visit every day, then check her every day.
And don't do it in her stall, take her out into a more open and better lit area so you can see better — stalls are almost always constrained, as well as poorly lit.
Second, you can conduct what a I call a "whole body survey" much faster by "feel" rather than just by looking.
By using your hands, you'll be more sensitive to swelling and you'll also feel the heat that occurs from an injury being healed.
I wrote an article about doing this entitled: Conduct a Daily Horse Whole Body Survey.
If you find something, then you'll visually inspect in a better lit area to ascertain the problem so you can address it.
August 19, 2009 – SPEED OF A HORSE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How fast can a horse run?
This depends on the horse and his condition (and to some degree, the courage, or foolishness, of the rider).
The average horse can usually gallop at least 25 MPH.
I've clocked my own horse (an Appendix Quarter Horse) with my GPS unit at a gallop at 31 MPH and we were not flat out, though it did seem awfully fast.
I should try him flat-out to see what he can do.
Thoroughbreds have been clocked at slightly over 40 MPH and the fastest horse speed measured was of a Quarter Horse and it was at an astounding 55MPH.
They can't maintain that speed for very long, but at that speed, you don't have to run very long to travel far.
August 18, 2009 – NEED HELP TIGHTENING CINCH
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I ride western and always have trouble tightening the cinch.
I'm a woman and must pull with all my might and it still seems I get it tight enough only half the time.
Is there any easier solution or am I doomed to fight my horse's cinch forever?
You're not the first person to make this complaint and there are two options that I know about.
The first is the tackaberry.
A tachaberry makes the whole cinching problem a lot easier.
The following sources offer tackaberies and one even offers a tackaberry system:
Aussie Saddle
Mikmar Bit Company
American Tack Supply
The other option is called the Cinch Hook.
I believe this system is derived from the tackaberry, but improves upon it.
A tackaberry requires that you use a cinch with the center belt-like pin removed.
The Cinch Hook lets you use a typical cinch with the pin.
In fact, it requires the pin to work.
But because most cinches have pins at both ends, this is an easy installation.
August 17, 2009 – WHAT'S A NUMNAH?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can you tell me what a numnah is?
I occasionally see that word in the forums, but nobody ever explains what it is.
I know it has something to do with a saddle.
Is it a blanket?
You're very close.
A "numnah" is nothing more than the word for an English saddle pad.
It is different from a western pad in that, instead of being a rectangular pad, it is thinner and follows the shape of the more common saddle most often used for equitation, jumping, etc.
It also usually has a loop sown on each side within which you pass the saddles girth.
And "girth" is another name unique to English tack; on a western saddle, it's called a "cinch" and has a different design to afix to the saddle, though it is also used to keep the saddle on the horse.
August 14, 2009 – WHAT CAN'T I FLY SPRAY?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I know I should apply fly spray to a cloth and use that to wipe it on my horse's face and never spray his head.
Can I spray everywhere else?
You shouldn't spray his private areas.
And you also shouldn't spray the part of his back and sides that will be under his saddle pad or numnah if about to ride — it's ok to spray there if you're not going to ride for a few hours.
Instead, tack him/her up first, then apply fly spray to the remaining exposed areas.
August 13, 2009 – TACKING UP IN A STALL
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it safe to tack my horse up in her stall?
That depends on the horse.
Most horses with which I have experience have no problem being tacked up in their stalls.
I like my own horse to be out as much as possible, so he really doesn't spend much time in his stall.
He will let me tack him up, brush him, pick his hooves, check inside his ears, or do whatever else is needed while he's in his stall or anywhere else.
I can use a lead line and tie him at one end of the stall, but he'll also let me do whatever needs to be done while he stands freely.
But, I have heard of some horses being nervous when a person is in their stall with them.
So, this is really an assessment you need to make of your own horse and her emotional disposition.
Is she ok with a person in her stall with her?
Some horses are territorial.
If you've never interacted with her in there, take it a step at a time.
Try brushing her there, pick her hooves, etc.
Part of this is your horse trusting you and feeling comfortable with you.
The other part is your confidence and trust of her.
The more confident you are and the more you earn her trust, the more flexibility you'll have to address any issue with your horse's cooperation and comfort.
August 12, 2009 – WEIGHT OF A 2-HORSE TRAILER
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How much does a 2-horse bumper pull weigh?
The weight will vary by the design of the trailer.
Some trailers are all steel, others are aluminum on a steel frame.
The floor can be aluminum, steel, wood, or rumber (see the July 31st post to learn more about trailer flooring and rumber.).
As you can see, all these differences affect the weight.
Then, does the trailer have a dressing/tack room?
If so, that will add about 400 - 500 extra pounds.
The lightest two-horse bumper pull trailers I've seen weigh about 2,400 pounds while the heaviest with a dressing/tack room weigh about 3,200 pounds.
The weight in between is determined by the variations mentioned above plus whether or not the trailer has a spare tire, tack box, etc.
I hope this helps!
August 11, 2009 – CUTS INSIDE THE HORSE'S MOUTH
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse has cuts inside her mouth that only seem to occur while I'm riding her.
What could cause that?
This problem could be the result of several possible causes.
First, you should first examine the bit you use on your horse to assure it doesn't have any sharp edges.
If you find some, they need to be removed and smoothed.
Second, have your vet take a look at your horse's mouth.
He/she should be able to determine whether the cuts are inflicted by something external, such as your bit, or whether there is some other cause, such as sharp tooth edges and the need to have her teeth floated.
Your horse could be trying to evade the bit and that action is causing her to rub the sharp teeth edges against the flesh of her mouth making it seem like this is only a problem when riding, while it's really her teeth.
Your vet will also be able to determine if the problem is something unrelated, such as some disease that's causing sores that look like cuts.
If your vet finds no problems, find someone who understands bits.
That could be your trainer, your tack shop owner, or some very experienced barn owner you respect.
You don't want to use a bit any harsher than needed to control your horse.
And often, riders have more trouble controlling a horse when using a harsh bit because of the pain it inflicts.
Changing to a milder bit removes that pain and allows the horse to also enjoy the ride.
Either way, someone with more experieince in this matter should be able to investigate further if the initial suggestions don't find the cause of the problem.
August 10, 2009 – KEEPING HORSES ON RESIDENTIAL LAND
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can you own horses on residential land?
Of course you can.
In fact, most horse farms are on residentially land.
Let's face it, how many horse farms have you seen in the middle of a city?
Precious few, I'll wager.
But there are more important questions you need to answer.
To legally keep horses anywhere, you need to first check with your town or city hall about their ordinances affecting the keeping of horses.
They will be able to tell you whether or not you are properly zoned to keep horses on your property.
Also, in most towns, this is also determined by the amount of land you own.
There will usually be some minimal amount of land, such as two, three, or five acres before horses will be permitted.
Of course, this makes perfect sense because you'll need space for a barn, space for a muck pile, pasture land for grazing your horses, possibly a round pen and/or a practice ring, etc., etc.
August 7, 2009 – HORSE SIZE MATCHED TO RIDER'S WEIGHT
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What would be an average size horse for a girl?
That would depend on the girl.
If she weighs up to 200 pounds, that's one thing.
If she weighs up to 300 pounds, that's another.
And this doesn't matter if the rider is a girl or a guy; it has to do with the rider's weight.
An average size horse is about 15 - 15-2 hands and probably about 900 pounds depending on the horse's breed and build.
Such a horse can usually carry a rider up to about 200 - 220 pounds or so.
For a bigger rider, use a bigger horse.
If you overload your horse, you can permanently damage the horse's spine and/or legs — don't do it — that's unfair to the horse.
Of course, all horses appreciate a lighter load and can run longer and farther in that case.
August 6, 2009 – CARRYING A CAMERA WHILE RIDING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'd like to take a point and shoot camera with me on my trail rides.
Would it damage a camera with the jostling from trotting and cantering if I carried one?
I don't think that jostling, in and of itself, would be an issue, even at the faster gaits, as long as the camera was secure and in a padded case or pcoket.
Most riders carry electronic devices on their person on trail rides.
I carry both a cell phone and GPS, both in pouches on my belt.
And the people I ride with like to trot, canter, gallop, and sometimes jump at auspicious locations on the trail — I've never had a problem with these devices.
Most "point & shoot" cameras will be small and light enough to carry in a zippered pocket — I would not chance carrying one in an open pocket that cannot be zippered or snapped closed.
If you were to consider a larger, heavier camera, such as an SLR, that would be a harder problem to solve.
As a photographer, I've been trying to find a way to safely carry one my SLRs on some rides, but have not yet found an adequate solution.
I need to be able to carry not only the camera, but also several lenses and filters.
I would even like to be able to carry a tripod so I could use horseback riding as the vehicle to visit deep recesses of many state and federal forests and parks.
If I find such a solution, I'll be happy to post it here to help any interested readers.
But you should be ok with a "point & shoot" camera in a secure, sealable pocket.
August 5, 2009 – GAS OR DIESEL TO TOW A TRAILER?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I was recently told that it's bad to tow a trailer using a vehicle with a gas engine.
Does this mean I should trade in my truck for one with a diesel engine?
The consideration is not about whether or not your vehicle has a gas or diesel engine.
Rather, it's about torque.
Most diesel engines operate at a lower RPM and develop more torque than a similar horsepower gas engine.
And because torque is what you need when towing a load, this is the reason that many people make the association of towing with diesel-powered tow vehicles.
However, if your current gas-powered truck has sufficient torque, it'll pull your trailer without a problem.
Generally, the larger the engine, the more torque it will develop.
That means a tow vehicle with a V8 engine will more easily tow a trailer than one with a V6.
Presuming that your truck is rated by its manufacturer to tow the same size weight or a larger trailer than you have, it should work fine.
Of course, an even larger tow vehicle, whether powered by a gas or a diesel engine, will have an easier time of it.
You can learn more about towing from this article entitled: Tow Vehicles.
August 4, 2009 – HOW MUCH FREE-CHOICE HAY IS TOO MUCH?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is there such a thing as too much free-choice hay?
Yes, but only from the sense that you don't want to waste good hay.
Like most things in life, you want to strive for a balance.
If you put too much hay in your horse's stall, some will get trampled upon and get mixed with waste products — that hay is now useless and wasted.
The best environment for a horse is outside.
But, when weather doesn't permit, such as during severe storms or when the ground is icy and dangerous and your horse is stuck inside, provide a couple of flakes for him to munch on.
Check on him later in the day and if he's finished those flakes, give him another flake or two.
This way, he'll actually keep grazing and consume the hay rather than having it wasted.
One other important thing to remember is to always assure you give your horse plenty of water, especially when he's eating hay.
He needs the water to stay hydrated and for digestion, especially with hay, which unlike grass, is quite dry.
August 3, 2009 – SHEATH CLEANING FREQUENCY
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How often should I clean my horse's sheath?
The substance that you need to clean off is a secretion called "smegma".
In fact, you might be interested to know that this substance is secreted by all mammals, males and females, including humans.
It acts as a lubricant and is viscous and sticky.
With horses, the stickiness attracts dirt, dust, and builds up a waxy like substance that must periodically be removed to avoid making pockets for infections.
For most horses, once or twice a year is enough.
But because horses, like people, have different metabolisms that can vary by individual, you should ask for your veterinarian's advice as to the cleaning frequency for your particular horse.
July 31, 2009 – BETTER TRAILER FLOORING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
You answered a question a few weeks ago (7/13/09) about the fact that even aluminum will corrode, especially when used as the floor of a horse trailer where it will get exposed to the acid in urine.
Because steel is obviously not a good floor material and even aluminum corrodes, what better options are there, if any?
Actually, there are better options.
A rather inexpensive one is to buy a trailer with a pressure-treated wood floor.
Because it's pressure treated, you won't have to worry about deterioration due to insects.
And when it does require replacement, it's something you can do yourself and is not very expensive for the replacement boards.
My favorite and what I think is the best floor material is called Rumber™.
It's a recycled material made of 65% rubber (from old tires) and 35% plastic.
The material comes in boards and in sheets.
You can buy some of the better grade horse trailers with a 1.5 inch thick Rumber floor right from the manufacturer as an option and it normally includes a 20 year warranty — that says something about the longevity of this material.
It is virtually impervious to water, urine and other horse waste, and most other liquids that are likely to come in contact with it.
Rumber is also crush-proof and can withstand temperature extremes, so it won't soften in the hot summer months nor crack in the winter.
It has a rough surface that provides good traction for your horses, yet is resilient and provides cushioning for their joints without the need for mats — I think it's the ideal trailer floor material.
If interested, you can learn more at: Rumber.com.
It is quite possible that you could replace a wood floor with Rumber boards when the time comes and it will likely be the last floor you need to buy.
July 30, 2009 – WESTERN SADDLE PLACEMENT
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I've been riding English most of my life and have switched to trail riding.
For safety reasons, I've switched to a western saddle, but it doesn't seem to fit my horse right unless I put it farther back on his spine.
Where should a western saddle go on a horse?
You're correct in recognizing that your Western saddle needs to be further back on your horse.
The most forward saddles tend to be those of English design with Western saddles being the furthest back — Australian saddles fall in between.
If you have any doubt as to whether or not you're correctly positioning your saddle, or even if the saddle is properly fitting your horse, you really should have the fit looked at by a saddle expert, or at least someone more familiar with the use of Western saddles.
It could be that the only problem is that you're used to placing your English saddle more forward and this just feels wrong to you even though it's in the right place.
If that is the cause of your concern, you will get used to proper placement fairly quickly the more you ride.
And hopefully, you'll also enjoy the greater comfort that is necessary for long rides.
July 29, 2009 – UNLIMITED ACCESS TO HAY?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Should a horse have feed in his stall at all times?
"Feed" refers to anything you generally feed a horse.
Therefore, specificity here is VERY important.
Horses SHOULD NOT have grain available at all times — that is very dangerous and could cause them to get fat at best and to colic and die at worse.
But, it is a good idea to have good quality hay available to them at all times when they are in their stalls.
That approach is known as "free choice hay".
Of course, you also need to assure they have ample water available because the digestion of hay requires adequate water.
July 28, 2009 – YELLING AT YOUR HORSE???
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
When I tell my horse off and yell at her, she lies down.
Why does she do that?
A much better question is: Why on Earth are you yelling at and telling off your horse?
She's a horse — she doesn't speak English.
As humans, we're supposed to be a higher-thinking species.
As much as we like to think are horses are smart, that's compared to other horses, not compared to humans.
Your horse may be lying down because she knows you're angry, but doesn't know why, especially with your carrying on with the verbal abuse by telling her off.
She certainly understands your angry emotions and they are not helpful; they're counter productive.
She's confused and frightened and your yelling isn't helping one bit.
Horses don't premeditate some action against you, they just follow their instincts.
So, it's unfair of you to be yelling at her.
Take some time to watch horses in a paddock or pasture.
They do test each other, but the correction is generally very quick and ends just as quickly.
The offending horse gets the message and then it's over and forgotten until the next time — neither horse holds a grudge — that's a human weakness.
If your horse does something she's not supposed to do, she might be testing you.
A quick turn toward her with an accompanying "Hey!" by you is usually all it takes.
There's nothing to be gained and much to be loss by yelling.
And if she does something correct immediately after, you should calmly praise her.
Whenever my horse does something right, even if it is immediately after he tried testing me, I take the opportunity to praise him.
I don't ever want him to fear me, I want him to respect and trust me — that's a lot different and makes for a happier horse and one much more willing to please his/her leader.
July 27, 2009 – HAS MY HORSE RACED?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I just bought an ex-race horse.
How can I tell if my horse has really raced?
Horses that have raced have a registration number tattooed to the inside of their upper lip — this is a requirement of law in most states that allow horse racing of any breed.
You don't mention your horse's breed.
I can help you with a few of them; see below:
If you horse is some other breed, you'll have to do some research on the net to find the organization that administers racing for your breed.
July 21, 2009 – KICKING ON THE TRAIL
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How do you keep horses from kicking each other on trail rides?
That's easy: keep them apart.
Unfortunately, as you likely know, when surprised, horses kick first and then investigate later, sometimes from a safer location further away.
But at that point, the kick has already occurred.
Therefore, there is only one real option: keep the horses apart.
Even though you can train a horse not to kick generally, there's no guarantee he/she will never kick, especially with a spooky horse.
Keeping them apart is not difficult as long as the riders can control their horses.
If they can't, that generally means the riders need more instruction, the horses need proper groundwork and training, or both.
Generally, a horse-length or more is considered a sufficient distance between the horses while on the trail ride.
Probably harder is for the riders to pay attention to maintaining that distance while they're looking around at nature and socializing with the other riders.
July 20, 2009 – DO HOOF BOOTS REALLY WORK?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'd like to make my horse go barefoot, but in a prior attempt, he got very tender-footed, so I went back to metal shoes.
I'm thinking about trying hoof boots.
Do they really work?
Yes!
They really work.
My horse has had the same problem as yours — that of becoming tender-footed when ridden without shoes.
The problem is that he and his paddock mates live on soft grassy pastures here in Connecticut, so the frogs of his feet don't toughen up enough.
Then, when I ride him, we'll usually ride in state forests and some of that includes gravel roads, rocky New England trails, and such, and his front feet will get sore.
His rear feet have always been barefoot and fine, but his front feet, which take more of his and my weight, can get tender.
I purchased some hoof boots and he's been fine on the trail every since.
I only put his boots on when we go out for a ride; he's barefoot otherwise.
I ride him through all the gaits with the boots and have even jumped him and have had no problems (the manufacturer rates the boots for jumping).
Since going barefoot, my horse's hooves have become tougher and healthier.
Adding the boots lets him ride without tenderness.
July 17, 2009 – TRAILERING WITH THE REAR DOORS OPEN?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can I leave the upper doors at the back of my horse trailer open while hauling my horse?
I'm getting conflicting answers when I asked this question at my barn.
Yes, you can leave them open if they're designed to be left open while moving down the road.
For those trailers designed that way, the doors latch open to the trailer's side so they won't swing.
That position is also determined by the trailer's designer so the open doors will provide minimal drag due to air friction.
If in doubt as to whether you can do this with your trailer, contact the trailer's manufacturer.
Fortunately, most trailers are designed to do this, so just make sure your trailer is one of them and use this feature to keep your horse cool when trailering during the hot months of the year.
The rest of the time, keep them closed to avoid hypothermia risks.
It's surprising how much faster a body can be cooled when blown on by cold air.
July 16, 2009 – HORSE STICKS TONGUE OUT WHENEVER BRIDLED
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse always hangs her tongue out when she wears her bridle.
Are there any bits that will make her keep her tongue in?
You've got the process backwards.
Your mare has her tongue out because the bit you're using is hurting her.
She's putting her tongue out to escape the pain; in fact, it's called " escaping the bit".
Some horses will alternatively lower their head to get behind the bit.
So, you don't need a bit that "makes her keep her tongue in", all you need is a bit that doesn't hurt her.
A company named Myler Bits USA designs bits with this in mind.
There's a lot of information on this site and you may want to read some of it and contact them before ordering the first bit that appears to solve your problem.
July 15, 2009 – BALES PER HORSE PER YEAR?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm planning my own barn and trying to determine feeding costs.
How many flakes in a bale and how many bales of hay will a horse eat in a year?
Feeding is definitely not an exact science.
The size of the horse and his diet will be different for each horse and that diet will change from season to season.
For example, in the summer, grazing will supplement his feed and you'll likely need less hay.
Yet, when in work, the amount he eats will be a little greater.
In the winter in northern latitudes, the snow and ice usually conspire to make work less possible, but there is limited or no grazing.
You'll have to judge what happens to your horses in your area of the world.
As for bales eaten per year, we can do some simple approximations.
There is no standard size bale, they usually vary between 62 - 80 pounds.
The smaller bales will have about 10 flakes while the larger will have 14 or so.
The average horse will eat about 3 flakes in the morning and three flakes in the evening.
That's 2,190 flakes per year.
At that amount, that's 219 small bales or 156 large bales of hay per year per average horse.
Of course, a smaller horse will eat less while larger horses will eat more — your mileage will definitely vary.
But this should give you enough information to make some cost approximations for planning purposes and get you "into the ballpark".
Good luck!
July 14, 2009 – MY HORSE WON'T RIDE ALONE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse is afraid of riding out alone and it's driving me crazy.
What can I do?
What you describe is known as "herd bound".
This characteristic is not only common, it's part of any horse's normal view of the world.
Horses are prey animals and they instinctively know that they're not as safe when alone.
We have an article on this topic that should be helpful in better understanding why your horse would rather not leave his buddies and what you can do about it.
It's entitled: Fixing the Herd-Bound Horse.
July 13, 2009 – CORROSION TO AN ALUMINUM TRAILER FLOOR?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
The floor on my all aluminum trailer is corroding.
I bought all aluminum so I would never have to worry about rusting and corrosion.
How is this possible?
Is this the result of low-grade aluminum?
I seriously doubt there is anything wrong with the quality of the aluminum in your trailer.
Most people don't realize that aluminum is not a corrosion-free material.
In fact, no metal is impervious to corrosion; rather, those that appear to be so just corrode at a very slow pace.
Aluminum is definitely less corrosive than iron alloys, such as steel, to general corrosion.
But it is susceptible to other forms, such crevice corrosion, pitting corrosion, and galvanic corrosion.
Aluminum does create its own protective oxide quickly, which is why its surface is a dull shine (such as on a soda can).
To bring aluminum to a high gloss polish, it must be accomplished in a vacuum or inert gas atmosphere and then sealed, as with aluminum wheels.
In the case of your trailer's floor, it is exposed to strong electrolytes, namely, acids in horse urine.
The most you can do to reduce the rate of corrosion on your trailer floor is to keep the floor clean.
Remove horse wastes and soiled bedding each time you return to the barn after hauling your horses and rinse the floor thoroughly with clean water from a hose.
That will remove the strong electrolytes in the urine and let the floor dry.
It will still corrode, but much more slowly.
And an occasional spray cleaning of the floor's underside, especially during the winter months if you use it then, will go far to remove road salts and slow down the corrosion there.
The corrosion of the walls of your trailer will be much slower and will likely still be in good shape in 20 years as you might expect.
July 10, 2009 – HORSES LIKE A VARIETY OF POSITIONS, TOO
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse will sometimes cross one hind leg behind the other while standing when tied.
Does that signify that there is anything wrong with a leg or foot?
My horse does the same thing and others around a former barn also wondered if something was wrong.
I'm not sure why they suspected anything because I've seen quite a few horses do the same.
When my vet was next at the barn to perform my horse's annual checkup, I mentioned it and he laughed and said my horse was in great shape and that many people seem to think this behavior is odd.
But he also said he's seen it many times and the horses were all fine and performed in their particular disciplines quite well.
So, check with your own vet if you continue to have concerns, but my horse is fine and this seems to be a common trait in some horses.
July 9, 2009 – A TRAILER PARKING BRAKE?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can I use the breakaway brake on my trailer as a parking brake when it's not being used?
All I'd have to do is pull the clip.
DEFINITELY NOT!
The reason is because the battery on your trailer that powers the breakaway brake doesn't last very long.
In fact, it's designed just to last a minute or two to get you to a safe stop.
Therefore, attempting to use it as a parking brake would just drain it quickly and then your brakes would release anyway.
In addition, your battery would be dead the next time you'd go to use your trailer.
And batteries don't usually last very long in a discharged condition and typically need to be replaced.
Even if you had enough power available, your brakes are electric and designed only for intermittent use to stop your trailer.
Left on for days, weeks, or longer, they would almost certainly burn out.
Instead, use a good wheel chock on the downhill side of one of your trailer tires and carry it within your trailer when underway — you may find it handy at the trail head if you can't park on a completely level surface.
July 8, 2009 – SMELLING NOSES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse sometimes tries to smell my breath.
Is this normal or is she just crazy?
This is normal.
My horse does the same thing to me.
And if you watch two horses when they meet, they usually put their muzzles together for 10 - 20 seconds or so.
What they're doing is smelling each other.
Because almost all animals have such great senses of smell compared to humans, they depend on that sense as a primary form of recognizing each other.
They may also want to learn what the other guy has been eating.
July 7, 2009 – HOOF PICKS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can you recommend a good hoof pick?
Mine is a folding pick that fits in my pocket, but it's short and sharp and I find it hard to hold on to while using it.
I like the ones with a 5/8 or 3/4 inch diameter, six inch long plastic handle, a dull triangular blade at one end of the head and a brush on the other side of the head.
They're cheap (90¢ - $2.50), easy to hold, and work well.
I don't like a sharp blade because we sometimes slip and can hit ourselves or the horse's other leg.
Plus, we don't need something sharp, just sturdy enough to scrape dirt, waste material, and bedding out of the hoof.
The brush makes cleanup easy and fast.
With one of these, I can generally do a thorough cleaning of a hoof in 10 - 15 seconds each.
July 6, 2009 – FLY CONTROL IN THE BARN
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can you suggest some solution for the terrible problem I'm having with flies in my barn?
First, your stalls have to be clean.
Horse waste products attract flies and some, such as Stable Flies, actually breed and leave their larvae in the manure or manure/bedding mix.
So, the first thing to do in getting the fly count down is to assure that you're keeping clean stalls.
If you don't do this part, all the other solutions won't help much.
Second, consider the stall's floor material.
The worst substrate in a stall is earth itself.
Urine soaks in, but doesn't really drain.
Instead, it forms a paste and while it's breaking down, the byproduct is ammonia and a sleeping horse has his head down in that ammonia fog all night — that isn't healthy for your horses.
Plus, you're constantly digging further and further down to get the urine soaked earth out of there and have to refill the stalls at least once each year.
A much better approach is a more solid floor, such as compacted stone dust or concrete with stall mats on top and a layer of bedding on the mats.
These approaches are easier to clean, and the urine is more likely to evaporate and get soaked into the bedding which is more easily removed than earth.
Third, make sure you maintain a well-ventilated barn.
If you do, you'll usually attract barn swallows.
These birds generally live in man-made structures, and barns have the additional advantage of providing their favorite diet: large flies.
Flies generally make up 70% of a Barn Swallows' daily intake, so these birds further help control the fly population.
Their maneuverability is excellent for avoiding barn structural members and catching flies "on the wing".
Finally, if you perform all the foregoing and still have a problem with flies, there are fly larvae parasites you can purchase for your barn or spray systems you can install.
Both will further drop the number of flies, but I recommend you begin first with cleaner stalls and attracting barn swallows.
Then you can augment that with additional systems if necessary.
Remember, it's all for nothing if you don't adequately clean your stalls because dirty stalls provide a great breeding ground for the flies.
July 3, 2009 – HORSE NIGHT VISION
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Do horses see in the dark any better than we do?
Yes!
Horses see in the dark much better than we.
By way of example, several years ago, I returned late from a trail ride after dusk.
The last part of the trip required us to walk through about a quarter mile of dense forest covered by a thick canopy.
While inside, it was so dark that I couldn't see my horses neck or mane while riding him.
In addition, I was worried because the trail had some trees across it that had recently fallen from a violent storm.
During the day, our horses could easily see and step over the tree trunks, but now it was night and I worried he could trip.
I was considering getting off so I could lead him, but without the ability to see myself and having no flashlight, I didn't know what was worse.
Well, my horse negotiated the trail through the dark woods with no problem and no tripping.
To my additional astonishment once back in the light at the barn, I had also forgotten that he was still wearing a black fly mask.
Obviously, he was able to see on a dark night with a black fly mask to stay on the trail and step over the fallen trees.
If I had gotten off and attempted to lead, I would have likely tripped over the fallen trees myself and perhaps spooked my horse — it would not have been good.
July 2, 2009 – STALL-BOUND HORSES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it humane to keep a horse primarily in its stall?
Definitely not!
You have to remember that horses typically move constantly during their waking hours as they graze.
So grazing and moving is what they've evolved to do all day.
If they can't move, their muscles atrophy and lose tone.
Psychologically, they become bored and often can be fidgety and difficult to control because they don't get enough exercise and can't burn off excess energy.
Or conversely, some become lethargic due to the lack of exercise — neither development is healthy.
Plus, depending on the cleanliness or dirtiness of their stall, they could be breathing in ammonia gases all day from their waste products decomposing.
Finally, they're such social beings that they've developed into herd animals.
They're deprived of all this by making them live in stalls all the time.
Regular turnout for much of the day is very healthy for horses — a few hours is not enough.
And horses living much of their lives outside are rarely sick.
July 1, 2009 – ELECTRICAL DIFFERENCE BETWEEN TRUCK HITCH WIRING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I bought a new truck last year and am not happy about something.
With my previous truck, I could turn the light in my trailer on whenever the truck was connected to it.
But with this new truck, the light only works when the truck is running.
What's up with that?
Is this truck not fully compatible with my trailer?
There is nothing wrong with your new truck or the trailer.
This is totally a matter of how the hitch wiring on your new truck differs from that of the old.
On the old truck, the battery supply wire ran directly to the battery circuit.
But that same wire on your new truck is instead connected to the ignition circuit which requires the ignition switch to be on for electricity to feed the trailer lights.
The thinking there is likely that you don't have to worry about a trailer light being accidentally left on and draining your tow vehicle battery.
BUT, if you prefer the prior behavior, any mechanic could likely rewire the hitch battery supply wire to the battery circuit so you can have lights inside your trailer whether your truck ignition is turned on or not.
June 30, 2009 – A WATER LINE TO EACH STALL?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm building a barn and planning to run a water line to each stall to make filling pails a lot easier.
Any suggestions?
Sure!
Make a point to have a main shutoff valve installed, and in an easily accessible location.
First, you'll want to leave that valve turned off most of the time.
When you want to fill your pails, turn the valve on, refill, then turn it off before leaving.
This is important because horses will often "fiddle" with the valve and accidentally (or purposely) turn the water on.
If the main valve is left on when you're not there, you could arrive to find quite a mess with various horse wastes floating about.
Second, if you live in a cold climate, you'll again want the water left off when you're not using it so it won't freeze and rupture the lines.
In fact, you'll want to turn it off after filling the pails and then return to each valve, open it to allow the water to drain, then reclose it.
Do this to each valve in turn until the lines coming down to each is empty and can't freeze, especially overnight.
While this is extra work during the cold weather, it's still much less work than carrying each pail to a barn hydrant or dragging a hose throughout the barn to fill each pail in its stall.
And needless to say, during spring through autumn, you won't have to drain the system at all and the work is even less yet.
I recommend you speak with the plumber who'll do the job when you're ready to have the fill lines installed so he/she can design a system that will drain easily and completely.
The plumber may even know of new fixtures that won't freeze nor require individual draining — that would be great!
My barn has a fill line in each stall and it really makes filling pails a much easier task than at other barns I've used.
And we have had horses turn those valves, so the main valve has saved the day...at least as long as no one forgot to turn it off...
June 29, 2009 – WASHING OR RINSING A HORSE AFTER A RIDE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it ok to wash or rinse a horse after a ride?
If the weather is warm, there's no problem in washing or rinsing your horse immediately upon return from a ride.
In fact, on a hot day, your horse would likely welcome the cool down.
BUT, in cooler weather, you need to be careful.
When wet, all animals (and humans) lose heat faster through evaporation.
In cold weather, the heat loss through evaporation AND the colder air can put your horse at risk of hypothermia.
I would only rinse your horse after a ride if the temperature is in the 60s or higher.
So, if you live in a northern climate, use a wash or rinse after a ride only on the warm days of summer.
In the colder winter months, you may have to do the opposite and use a cooler to keep your horse warm after a ride until his perspiration has evaporated.
June 26, 2009 – HORSES AND LIGHTENING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Do horses attract lightening?
This is the second time I get asked this question.
The first time, I thought it was a joke, but perhaps we should address the issue directly.
No!
Horses DO NOT attract lightening any more than you or I do.
Lightening is just electricity and behaves as all electricity does.
Actually, it's static electricity, but it's an awful lot of static electricity.
The reason we have lightening is because, like a battery, there is a voltage difference between the Earth and the clouds.
That means there's an excess of electrons at one or the other.
Therefore, electrons want to go from the clouds to the Earth, or if the polarity is reversed, want to go from the Earth from to the clouds.
The dangerous part is when we get in between them.
Electricity ALWAYS takes the path of least resistance.
If there is a conductor that will take those electrons part of the way, the electrons will go that way.
That conductor can be a metal building, a flying plane, the mineralized water flowing in a tree, or an animal, such as a horse or us.
The minerals in our body, such as iron, zinc, and copper, allow electric flow with less resistance.
To make matters worse, we become a LONGER conductor when sitting atop a horse — this is bad for both us AND the horse.
So, in a thunderstorm, the best advice is to get both ourselves and our horses out of the weather.
Lightening strikes on people and animals are actually quite rare because, except in an open field, on top of a hill, or on a body of water, we and the horses are usually much lower than the trees, hills, and buildings around us.
But because our lives are at stake and safety is just a matter of going inside, it's just not worth the risk.
Thunderstorms also cause other risks for us and our horses and a more comprehensive discussion is available in a our article: Horses & Thunderstorms.
June 25, 2009 – DIFFICULTY STAYING IN THE SADDLE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm new at this and have been taking lessons and riding for a few months and do ok in the ring, but when I go out onto a trail, especially when going up or down a steep hill, I need to hold onto a strap my instructor connected across the pommel of my English saddle.
Is there any easier way to stay in the saddle?
You don't mention the steepness of the hills you're riding, but here are a few things to keep in mind:
First, as a new rider, you're still learning to balance yourself on the horse — you'll get better the more you ride.
As the Horse Girl often says, "all saddle time is good time".
By that, she means that all time in the saddle helps your body to better learn to balance itself — no one can learn to ride a horse by watching others or by reading about the technique — the rider's brain and muscles must develop and learn to respond to the movement of the horse.
In time, you'll do it without thinking about it, without worrying about falling off, and will likely also be effortlessly talking to other riders just as you're able to chat with a passenger while driving your car.
Second, an English saddle is almost like a sliver of leather on the horse's back upon which you sit and balance.
It works well in the ring and on slight grades, but was never designed to negotiate steep inclines and the threats of the trail.
A Western, Australian, or endurance saddle is better designed for that activity because the deeper cantle and higher pommel they provide will offer much better support to help keep you atop.
They're also better in keeping you there when your horse is startled and makes an abrupt movement, such as a quick stop, bolt, or a shy.
You only need to experience one of those once to fully appreciate the strength of a horse and how quickly he/she can use that strength to accelerate, stop, or change direction — it'll blow a sports car away.
To be clear, the foregoing is not an indictment of English saddles; I first learned to ride and jump in one, and truth be told, I'm glad it forced me to develop a better sense of balance.
I also still occasionally take a riding lesson in one so an instructor can criticize the recent bad habits I've developed and put me back on "the straight and narrow".
But when riding in the countryside, especially in the forest and on hills, you want a saddle designed for that style of riding because of the additional safety it'll provide.
So give yourself a break and don't beat yourself up about wanting to hold onto that strap for safety — you're a new rider and your body is still learning to balance itself while sitting on the moving beast we all love.
BUT, do keep taking those lessons, keep riding on various terrain, and do it on a saddle designed to keep you safer while out there.
And also keep using the English saddle in the ring so your body best learns to truly ride a balanced seat without other support.
June 24, 2009 – TRAILER HITCH CLASSES?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My truck bumper has a towing capacity of 10,000 lbs.
Is that a class two hitch?
No, it's a class IV hitch.
Here are the ratings by class:
- Class I: up to 2000 pounds;
- Class II: 2001 to 3500 pounds;
- Class III: 3501 to 5000 pounds; and
- Class IV: 5001 to 12,000 pounds.
Generally, unless you've got a very big truck, it's unlikely that the bumper alone is rated for 10,000 pounds.
Therefore, you're more likely to need a receiver into which you'll insert a drawbar onto which the hitch ball mounts.
To learn more about hitches, see our article entitled: Getting Properly Hitched.
June 23, 2009 – RIDING IN HIGH WINDS?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can I ride my horse in high winds?
It depend what you mean by high winds.
A very calm horse with a quiescent temperament may do fine.
But, wind moves things around and things moving around can spook most horses.
Plus, wind can knock down branches on top of you and your horse if it's powerful enough.
So this is a matter of judging the degree of wind to assess safety.
As for me, I do ride my horse on windy days, especially in autumn when many of those days occur.
But high winds to me means strong, blustery winds in the range of 40MPH and up.
That's also the wind speed designating the beginning of cyclonic storms in the tropical storm range.
Unless such winds come up while I'm out on the trail, I won't intentionally take my horse out into such weather because of the chance of wind-driven objects hitting us with significant force.
Conversely, you don't want to avoid riding on less windy days if you'll be safe.
Essentially, you don't want to let mild wind and gusts scare you inside, but also don't want to take unnecessary chances in dangerous weather.
If you want to learn more about dealing with the wind while riding, see our article entitled: Horses and Wind.
June 22, 2009 – WHY FLOAT TEETH?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Why do my horse's teeth have to be floated every now and then?
The reason is that, while human teeth stop growing as we reach adulthood, horse's teeth grow continually over their whole lives.
Consider that they graze most of the time they're pastured and that they grind what they eat.
As a result, their teeth wear down, so continued growth is necessary so they can eat and grow old.
As for the need for floating, think about how this works.
Like humans, the upper teeth form an arc wider than the lower teeth.
That larger radius causes the upper teeth to overhang the lower teeth.
Because of that, the outside of the upper teeth don't grind against the lower teeth, and therefore, DON'T wear down.
Instead, they get longer and form sharp edges.
These edges can cut into and injure the horse's cheeks.
Similarly, the inside of the lower teeth, having a smaller radius, don't touch against the inside of the upper teeth and also don't wear down, so they, too, develop sharp edges that can cut and injure the horse's tongue.
If the pain is bad enough, the horse will not eat enough and can lose weight.
The edges can also interfere with a bit and make the horse difficult to control because of the pain they can cause.
Floating files these edges down.
The result is actually a happier horse.
In the wild, horses eat a larger variety of foods than those in domestic life.
Some of those foods are higher in abrasive minerals (usually silicates) that tend to wear the entire teeth more evenly.
Floating is usually required about once each year for most horses.
Of course, depending on a horse's metabolism, some may require more frequent floating while others can get by with longer periods between.
June 19, 2009 – RIDING HELMET HOLDOUTS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
A few of my riding friends never wear a riding helmet.
I worry they could get hurt if their horse spooks and they fall.
Any idea how I can convince them to change this bad habit?
I'm afraid I'm out of ideas on this one.
While I often see riders of both genders in state forests riding without helmets, I'm even more concerned about several friends that refuse to wear a helmet when riding.
Like you, I really like them and care about their safety.
But they are adults and in control of their own destiny.
I've talked about the subject (while riding) and hinted about the benefits of wearing a helmet.
Heck!
I've even come right out and asked them why they don't wear one and have mentioned how mine has protected me from branches hit while riding and hitting my head on the ground from a fall.
They agree with the logic, admit they should do so, but don't change their behavior.
Think about it: many states have enacted and enforce laws mandating seatbelt usage, yet some people still drive intentionally without " buckling up".
Needless to say, it's going to be the same about riding helmets for some people and all we can do is occasionally prod them gently and hope for the best.
June 18, 2009 – BRAKE CONTROLLER
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I just bought a horse trailer and the salesman looked inside my truck and said that I also need a brake controller.
Is this true or is he just looking to sell me another "thing?"
If so, where does the brake controller for a trailer attach?
You definitely DO NEED a brake controller to safely stop a horse trailer.
It controls the trailer's electric brakes.
Without such a controller, your trailer has NO BRAKES and is dependent on those of your truck to stop it.
The weight of your trailer plus that of the horses and tack within is far too much weight for your truck to stop including its own weight.
So the question really is whether or not you already have a brake controller installed in your truck.
To identify it, look for a small box about four or five inches wide by six inches long mounted to the bottom of the dash on either side of the steering post.
It'll be about an inch thick with five or six wires running under the dash.
If you don't see anything like that, then you'll need to buy one.
They generally run about $70 - $200 in price and cost $35- $50 to have installed.
I recently wrote an article about the two different kinds entitled: Trailer Brake Controllers.
June 17, 2009 – BLUE-EYED HORSES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Are blue eyed horses blind?
No, not at all.
Blue-eyed horses are actually somewhat common.
Their light pigmentation may make them susceptable to problems that horses with darker eyes do not experience, such uveitis (inflamation of the uvea) caused by too much exposure to bright sunlight.
But they're definitely not blind by virtue of the fact that their eye color is blue.
June 16, 2009 – WEB-STRUNG SADDLES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What is a web strung saddle?
A web-strung saddle means the saddle seat is suspended above the horse like a hammock.
Its purpose is to separate the rider's butt from the horse's back so the two don't pound against each other while riding.
And it's healthier for the rider's and the horse's spine and provides a more comfortable ride for both.
This tends to be a feature available on the better saddles costing more.
I have it in my saddle and love it.
Mine is an Australian saddle and is the most comfortable saddle in which I've ever ridden, and I've ridden in many.
I talk a little bit more about it in the fourth paragraph of Part 8 of my saddle search series of articles.
June 15, 2009 – DON'T WEAR A BACKPACK
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it OK to wear a backpack while riding?
I don't have any saddlebags and need someplace to pack a lunch and water bottle.
I WOULD NOT wear a backpack while riding.
If you should ever fall off and land on your back, any hard object within that pack, such as a water bottle, could cause injury to your spine depending on how you hit.
Plus, if it should move around inside as you shift your weight at speed, it could upset your balance or that of your horse.
Why not just buy an inexpensive pommel or cantle bag?
There are various designs made for English and Western saddles.
This way, you'll not only protect your back, it'll be a lot more comfortable and you'll be carrying that load lower, thereby reducing any effects of a moving load on the balance of you and your horse.
June 12, 2009 – KNEE VS: TREE AVOIDANCE IDEAS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I just recently was trotting quickly through the woods on my horse and came too close to a tree and rapped my kneecap into it as we passed.
It hurt greatly!
What's the best way to avoid that injury in the future?
Below are several of your options:
- Slow down
- Steer away from approaching trees
- Wear protective knee pads
- Ride only on open, treeless plains
- Assure your horse respects you and isn't trying to "scrape you off".
I think that about covers it.
June 11, 2009 – GETTING A GRIP
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Where can I buy an Aussie Monkey Grip?
I got mine for $25 when I bought my saddle from the Australian Stock Saddle Company.
You can see a partial photo of it in the "Horse Guy" Archive when I answered a similar question on March 31st, 2009 in this column.
June 10, 2009 – TOUGHENING HOOVES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is there a way to toughen unshod hooves?
The fact your horse is barefoot makes the actual hoof stronger because it's getting better circulation and, therefore, more nutrients.
It's likely the frog of your horse that is making him tender-footed.
About the only thing you can do to toughen that is to keep your horses on harder and rocky ground.
It's that adaptation of living in such an environment that toughens the hooves of roaming horses out west.
Where I live here in New England, we get enough rain that the paddocks are rich with green grass and good grazing.
That grassy ground is soft and my barefoot horse is tender-footed when walking on rocky ground.
So, when I ride, I put boots on his front feet and he does fine.
Because his hooves are so healthy since I've pulled his shoes, I will not go back to shoeing him or any other horse I own now that I've seen the difference in hoof health between a shod and unshod horse.
June 9, 2009 – THRUSH
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Why would my horse's hooves always stink?
If they're stinky, the most common problem causing that is a bacterium called "thrush".
It grows in the grooves and cleft of the frog.
This bacterium is anaerobic, so that means it can only survive in packed-in material that keeps the oxygen out.
If it is thrush, you'll see a black, puss-like material when you clean your horse's hooves.
The most common cause of thrush is poor hygiene of the hoof and of the horse's stall.
Hooves should be picked clean each day.
It is packed-in mud, horse waste, or wet shavings that allow the bacterium to get a foothold and thrive.
A filthy stall will also increase the likelihood of thrush because it provides horse droppings and urine for moisture.
And for those horses using full pads on their feet to protect them from soreness, such as caused by stepping on rocks, the pads also allow thrush to develop and grow between shoeings.
If thrush is not addressed and advances over time, it can cause lameness problems or even the need to put the horse down.
So, clean your horse's hooves daily; clean his stall and replace his bedding daily; and have his feet checked every 6 - 8 weeks by a good farrier whether he's shoed or barefoot.
You may want to have your vet check your horse this first time to determine whether this is thrush or some other disease.
And if it is thrush, your vet can also determine its severity.
Your question mentioned that your horse's hooves "always" stink.
That implies to me this problem has been going on for a while and may be somewhat advanced.
Don't wait long to call your vet — your horse's soundness, maybe even his life, is potentially at stake.
June 8, 2009 – A SLIDING SADDLE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
A few days ago you addressed a question regarding tightness of the girth strap and you recommended not tightening too much.
I agree with you, but I have a horse that is shaped like a perfect barrel.
He is not terribly overweight, the vet says he is a good weight, but he is just very rounded and my saddle keeps slipping.
I have purchased a sticky pad which has not done the trick.
I also have made it a point to get a saddle with full quarter horse bars (he is a BIG Quarter Horse) so that this fits him well.
I always tighten his girth, walk him around a bit then tighten it again and walk around some more and tighten it yet again.
I have in the past only tightened it twice and when I went to get on, the saddle simply rolls down under his belly.
I use a mounting block and am not sure what else to do.
I don't want to over tighten, but I don't want to always have to yank the saddle back into center position while riding.
I'm sure that can't be comfortable for him!
Any suggestions?
I started answering this question and realized it was getting too long for this column.
So, I converted it to an article and you can read it at: Dealing with Sliding Saddle Problems.
June 5, 2009 – DON'T OVERLOAD YOUR HORSE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I want to go on some long trail rides and plan on buying some saddlebags.
How much weight can I put in them?
When it comes to payload, where you place the weight is every bit as important as how much you're carrying.
I would limit the weight in saddlebags to about 20 - 30 pounds because of their location so far aft.
A better place to carry more weight is over the horse's center of gravity near where you ride.
That's usually over the withers.
Therefore, you should consider getting some wither bags and put your heaviest items there.
However, even with them, be careful you don't overload your horse.
You don't mention for how long you intend to go and how much you intend to carry.
If you're traveling light with no more than a bedroll and minimal cooking gear, you can usually do that on the same horse you ride.
If you're taking a tent and other overnight gear rather than traveling light, you need to consider bringing a packhorse.
If you overload your car or truck and something breaks, you just get it fixed.
But if you overload an animal, you could seriously harm or kill it — be careful and thoughtful and don't over load your horse.
And depending how far into remote areas you plan to go, your own life may also depend upon it.
June 4, 2009 – GOING BAREFOOT
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What is your opinion about converting a horse to going barefoot?
This is a timely question because I converted my horse to barefoot last December (2008) and am still evaluating the change.
My horse has always been barefoot in back and has had shoes just in front.
But I've disliked the chipping and sometimes crumbling of his hooves that kept occurring.
I have found that the quality of the feed can affect hoof integrity — don't buy cheap feed, it may be increasing the risk of your horse having problems with his legs and feet.
Since converting my horse to barefoot, the most remarkable thing I've noticed is how healthy his front hooves are — they're much harder and they have a healthy, rose color rather than being a drab, dull gray.
In speaking with veterinarians and farriers, they've explained that a horse's frogs are supposed to compress when they take each step and that this compression helps pump blood back up the horse's leg, increases leg/foot blood circulation, and that helps to better nourish the horse's hooves and leg bones.
When a horse wears shoes, the frog is elevated and doesn't touch the ground, so that pumping action is either lessened or doesn't occur at all.
All I know is that my horse's hooves look better and are definitely harder and more solid than they ever were before when he was wearing shoes.
The only downside I've had is that his feet can be tender when I ride him on a rocky road or gravelly ground.
His farrier says that occurs because he lives in grassy paddocks and his frogs won't toughen up enough as long as he spends so much time on soft ground.
I don't want to relegate him to a barren and rocky paddock just to toughen his feet so I can ride anywhere, so I've been using boots on his front feet when riding and that is helping a lot.
And there are no snow/ice freezing issues in the winter when there are no metal shoes on your horse.
In summary, my experience with my horse indicates to me that it's much better for his hooves to not wear shoes; I believe it's also better for his legs.
I can't otherwise explain why his front feet now look so good.
June 3, 2009 – IS IT IMPORTANT TO PICK HOOVES?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My barn owner never cleans her horse's hoofs.
I asked her why and she said that horses turned out clean their hoofs by walking and running.
Am I wasting my horses and my time when I pick her hoofs?
I disagree with your barn owner.
My horse will get mud, horse waste, and other stuff (that I sometimes can't identify) stuck in the grooves beside the frogs of his hooves.
I pick his hooves clean everyday when I visit.
When I first bought him, I learned that the barn where he stayed and his owner never cleaned his hooves and the vet performing the pre-purchase exam found that he had thrush on both rear feet.
I had the thrush treated and have cleaned his hooves ever since and he's never again had the problem.
I believe in checking our horses over every time we visit and also cleaning their hooves and giving them a brushing.
This process has helped me avoid problems and find early the few that have occurred.
Therefore, I'm big on checking and grooming frequently for the benefit of my horse.
June 2, 2009 – USING CLIPS ON REINS?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I want to use some clips on the end of my reins so I can easily connect and disconnect them from my horse's bit.
But another rider at my barn have told me that it's not a good idea because horses hate the clicking sound the clips make.
Is that true?
It might be with some horses, but I do exactly what you described and it has worked out great fro my horse and me.
In fact, as many readers have heard me say before, I use a halter/bridle and this arrangement allows me to pull my horse's bit when stopping on the trail for lunch.
I disconnect the reins from his bit, clip one end on the halter ring, and Voila!
I now have a halter and lead line to let him graze while I eat lunch.
Reversing the process changes him back to a bridle, bit, and reins and he's ready to ride again.
June 1, 2009 – BUYING A GOOD USED TRAILER
We get a lot of inquiries about trailers, how to assess them, and buying questions.
This month, Perfect Horse magazine has published an extract of an article I've written about evaluating used trailers to help buyers make good decisions.
It also includes a checklist you can print out in multiple copies to take with you so you can later compare various trailers and pick the one that best meets your needs.
The complete and comprehensive article is entitled: Buying a Good Used Trailer.
May 29, 2009 – BAREFOOT HORSE GETS SORE FEET WHEN RIDDEN
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I've just had my horse's shoes removed a few months ago so he can go barefoot.
He seems ok in his paddock, but he sometimes gets tender-footed when I ride him.
Should I have him shoed again?
Not necessarily.
First, the most important thing to do is to get your farrier to examine your horse's feet and give you his opinion.
If he feels the feet look good, you need to give your horse some more time to adapt.
Going barefoot allows the frog of his feet to compress with each step and that helps pumps blood back up his legs — it's a healthier way for him to live.
Most of the tender-footed experiences I've seen and had with my own horse (he's also barefoot) are because horses often live on grassy field when turned out, but we take them on gravel roads and harder ground when riding.
If they lived on those gravel roads and hard ground all the time, their feet would toughen up and the tender-footedness would go away.
But because they don't, they may always experience some soreness when ridden in the rougher areas.
If you can normally ride mostly on grass, he likely will not even get sore.
Another option is to buy your horse some good quality boots for riding.
They can provide cushioning and protection from the hard ground, but allow you to keep him barefoot and enjoy the healthier benefits of being so.
For most horses, a set of boots for the front feet is enough.
Your farrier and vet are your best information source for questions about your horse's foot health.
May 28, 2009 – GIRTH/CINCH TIGHTNESS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How much should I tighten a girth or cinch?
It should be snug, but not overly tight.
The general rule of thumb is that you should be able to slip a couple of fingers under the buckle.
Your girth or cinch must not be so tight as to pinch or pull the horse's skin.
Remember this: you should not be attempting to "affix" a saddle to your horse as a rock-solid foundation upon which to sit and stand — riding is about balance.
Your saddle should be tight enough so it doesn't slip down either side of your horse, but not so tight that it compresses his chest, limits his breathing, or hurts him.
May 27, 2009 – ELECTRIC FENCE DANGERS?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My barn uses electrified ribbon fencing for their horse paddocks.
A friend mentioned being worried my horse could suffer neurological damage if she gets shocked too much.
Can that really happen?
In truth, I don't know the answer to your question. BUT, I find it hard to believe that such fencing could be used as widely as it is for horses and cattle if it were truly a risk to their nervous systems.
There may be a risk to the rare horse with a weak heart, but how could such a horse work or run and how long could he live that way?
One other risk hazard could be an entrapment situation where an animal couldn't escape getting shocked repeatedly, but that's an installation issue.
All fencing puts animals at some risk and horses have been known to sustain injury when getting hung up on any form of non-electric fencing also.
Good installation safety practices for humans and animals should always be practiced.
The shock is not continuous, it's pulsed every second or two and usually lasts only about 100 - 200 microseconds.
Each pulse is generally about 5,000 - 7,000 volts with very little current.
You may be surprised to learn that the static electricity shocks we all receive during the drier months are in the 10,000 - 30,0000 volt range.
For what it's worth, all electrical products must meet Underwriters Laboratories (U.L.) approval and safety guidelines for safety to humans.
Horses are even bigger and likely better able to dissipate the energy from a shock.
Finally, horses seem to learn pretty quickly to stay away from an electric fence after one or two shocks.
Incredibly, they also seem to somehow be aware of when it's turned on and when it's not.
Whether they feel an electrostatic effect on the hair of their bodies, smell ozone, or some other manifestation, they seem to know when it's on and adjust their behavior accordingly.
So, between the fact these fences are used extensively and we don't see lots of reports in the news about problems, and the fact that horses learn quickly and therefore usually avoid further shocks, I think the risk to them is very small.
May 26, 2009 – MY RIDING HELMET SEEMS EVER MORE IMPORTANT
I went riding with several friends yesterday and was again reminded of why I wear a helmet.
We were at the walk on a narrow trail going between lots of trees.
A small, 3 inch tree with no top was in the middle of the trail.
As my horse and I went along the right side at a slight grade, my horse slipped a few inches toward the tree, I pushed against the tree with my left hand to keep us away and learned why the tree had no top: it was rotted.
A four foot section above me broke and fell on my head.
My head also deflected it from hitting my horse and it fell to the ground (I didn't realize that protecting my horse meant taking the hit for him…SHEESH!)
While I was surprised by the clunk, there was no damage or injury done to my head, and I know that the helmet made the difference.
There have been other such incidents in my riding experience and more than once I've had branches hit my head.
I'm sure there will be more such episodes in the future.
My helmet has protected me from scrapes and bruises, and possibly from mild concussions.
And in the event of a fall from a horse, it can be even more important.
It's cheap insurance to protect the body's most important organ.
May 22, 2009 – GIVE YOUR HORSE REASONS TO BE HAPPY TO SEE YOU
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I wish my horse would enjoy seeing me arrive.
Instead, she runs from the gate when I approach it with her halter.
How can I change HER behavior?
The Horse Girl answered a similar question earlier this week.
Essentially, there are two aspects to this issue.
First, your horse must see you as her leader.
If she does, she'll see you as her protector and will more appreciate seeing you arrive.
Second, don't let her associate you only with work.
If the only time you ever visit always means you're going to drill her in the ring again or practice jumps, she's going to associate you with more work every time she sees you — I'd also run away from you in that case.
To change her view of you, visit her in between for other reasons.
For example, visit her just for the purpose of grooming, and then release her again to her friends in the paddock.
Or halter her, bring her outside the paddock, and let her graze while you stand nearby.
I often do a mix of the two on many days of the week.
I'll bring my horse outside his paddock and let him graze while I brush him and pick his hooves.
Then, I'll stand beside him, often with a hand lightly on his neck, withers, or on his back.
He'll graze and I can tell by his demeanor and soft eyes that he's very relaxed.
Another thing I've done was to hire a horse masseuse several times and learn a few basic equine massage techniques; you should try it.
Then, you'll be able to use them when you visit your horse.
You don't have to spend 30 minutes massaging her, even just a few minutes doing so will likely be appreciated.
These days, when I arrive at my horse's paddock, he'll start walking or even trotting over to the gate to meet me.
Sometimes, he'll whiney and run to the gate when he sees me approaching.
That's because he doesn't know what we're going to do, and while I'm sure he'd rather not work, at least he doesn't associate me only with work.
Some of those times, he knows he's just going to get pampered.
May 21, 2009 – CRIBBING REDUCERS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse is a cribber and chewing up our fences; any suggestions?
Cribbing really can take a toll on fencing.
In warmer weather, horses kept outside generally crib less if there is ample grass for them to graze upon.
Paddock mates also help, not only with making them feel safer, but also as a playmate to keep them busy and somewhat exercised.
Generally, cribbing is worse in the winter when horses have less to eat, are often stuck inside, and become board.
For those times where your horse does have to be in his stall, a cribbing collar and some horse toys can help.
When using a cribbing collar, remember that it is the brow band strap that is tightened and stops the cribbing — NOT the neck strap.
The neck strap should be loose and its only purpose is to help keep the collar on the horse.
If you tighten that one, you'll be choking your horse.
When placing a cribbing collar on your horse for the first time, stay around and observe him for the first 30 minutes or so.
Most horses adapt to the collar quite well, but a few can panic and a collar may not be the right solution for them.
During icy, winter days and times when a horse must be confined to his stall, lots of free-choice hay will give your horse something to do and reduce cribbing.
As you likely have observed, a horse's life is somewhat focused around food and eating, therefore, assuring they have a constant supply of grazing sustenance goes a long way to keeping them both busy and happy.
See the article on Reducing Stall Boredom for additional suggestions about how to keep your horse busy and happier when stuck inside.
May 20, 2009 – EIA and the Coggins Test
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How often should I have my horse tested for EIA?
EIA (Equine Infectious Anemia) is an analog to human HIV.
But fortunately, horses cannot acquire HIV and humans cannot contract EIA.
The most common test administered is the Coggins test which tests for EIA antibodies.
Every horse should receive a Coggins test annually.
Horses that are transported frequently, such as to shows, trails, hunter paces, etc., should be tested more frequently.
Not surprisingly, each state has different requirements.
The University of Vermont has a Website you can visit that provides information about the laws in each state.
It is:
http://asci.uvm.edu/equine/law/eia/eia.htm
Unfortunately, the Website was last updated in 2001.
But you can get current information from the United States Department of Agriculture by calling: (800) 545-8732.
May 19, 2009 – SALT BLOCKS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I've noticed that some boarders install salt blocks in their horse's stall; should I do the same?
Many horse feeds are low in sodium and chlorine.
And in hotter weather, horses, like humans and other animals, may perspire a lot and lose both sodium and chlorine through perspiration.
Therefore, providing free-choice salt to your horse is a good idea.
When you purchase your salt blocks, make sure you buy those specifically designed for horses to assure they also contain proper amounts of trace minerals for the equine metabolism.
Salt blocks are also made for cattle and deer and each block type has trace minerals needed for its specific target animal.
May 18, 2009 – ARE TAPADEROS GOOD OR BAD?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Are tapaderos are good thing?
There seem to be conflicting opinions around my barn.
Reposted as separate article. See: Tapaderos: Good or Bad? article.
May 15, 2009 – HORSES TURNED OUT WEARING HALTERS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
The owner of my barn is always putting our horses out with halters on.
I've told her I'm afraid a horse could get hurt if he got his halter caught on something and panicked, but she says she's never seen that happen and it's more work to have to halter each horse at the end of the day when she brings them all in.
What should I do?
Buy your horse a break-away halter.
While the halter is nylon, the crownpiece strap on such a halter is made of leather.
That leather strap is easier for a horse to break if he panics and tries to get free than is nylon.
You may want to apprise the other boarders so they, too, can consider getting similar halters.
Your tack shop will also likely carry replacement straps for the halters.
At my tack shop, the straps run about $5.00 each.
May 14, 2009 – SINGLE-HORSE TRAILER COST SAVINGS NOT SIGNIFICANT
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Do I need a break-away break on a single-horse trailer?
Yes!
In fact, the reason we see so few single-horse trailers is that, because the requirements are the same, it just doesn't cost much more for a manufacturer to build a two-horse trailer than a single-horse trailer.
They both require all the same safety features; the same height, almost the same width to be stable; double-axels; a break-away break and battery; etc., etc.
Therefore, the price and weight difference isn't very much.
As a result, a single-horse trailer isn't much cheaper.
Also, such a trailer isn't that much lighter than a two-horse trailer carrying only one horse, yet you don't ever have the option of carrying a second horse.
So, single-horse versions are often not felt to be worth the investment for a manufacturer or us buyers.
And yes, single-horse trailers do require a break-away brake and most every other safety feature required on two or larger horse trailers.
May 13, 2009 – BIT SCARRING IN HORSE'S MOUTH?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse has some scarring on the roof of his mouth.
I only use a mild snaffle bit.
Could that cause the scarring?
Yes, it can!
Bits and bridles can be designed to work on different parts of the mouth from the bars and tongue to the nose and lower jaw.
A snaffle has no curb chain, so it doesn't work on the lower jaw.
When you pull on a snaffle or ported bit, they press down on the tongue.
But if you lead your horse with a snaffle or ported bit and pull, the port rises instead and presses against the roof of the horse's mouth.
If you lead them roughly or your horse is fighting you and you jerk the reins while leading, the bit will ram against the roof and possibly the sides of the mouth.
Even though it's been done for centuries, horses really shouldn't be lead by the reins.
I use a halter bridle with clips on the reins.
When I lead before mounting, one end of my reins is connected to the chin-ring on the halter and I hold the other.
When I'm ready to mount, I remove the end connected to the halter ring and clip the reins onto the bit.
When I dismount, I move the reins back to the halter ring and my hand.
If my horse should spook while I'm leading him and I restrain him with the reins used as a lead line, it just pulls on the halter and doesn't ram the bit center into any parts of his mouth.
He's never told me, but I'm sure he appreciates that!
May 12, 2009 – TIME-DELAY AND PROPORTIONAL TRAILER BRAKES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can you tell me the difference between time-delay and proportional trailer brakes?
Reposted as separate article. See: Trailer Brake Controllers article.
May 11, 2009 – BETTER SIRING BY DRINKING DEEPLY?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is the saying true that the deeper a horse dips his nostrils while drinking, the better sire he will be?
That's an old wive's tale, and there are many that include horses.
The horse may or may not be a good sire regardless of how deep he dips his nostrils while drinking.
But I will tell you this: what he's really doing is risking getting a slug of water up his nose when he inhales — and if he does, it's not going to feel very good and he'll likely do that only once.
May 8, 2009 – JAW INJURY FROM A CURB BIT?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can using a curb bit break a horse's jaw?
I've heard this several times.
In truth, I don't know the answer.
But I have never heard of it happening.
However, using a curb bit incorrectly can really cause the horse to experience severe pain — that I know.
There are many horse veterinarians that are also horse owners and riders, and they would be the source I would ask for a good answer to this question.
In fact, we're looking for such a vet to write for QueryHorse and I'm making a note that this should be one of their first questions.
May 7, 2009 – DEALING WITH TRAILER CONDENSATION
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How do I prevent condensation in my horse trailer?
You can always tell when spring has arrived because we start getting lots of questions related to trailers.
To prevent, or more practically, to reduce condensation, you first have to understand how this meteorological process works.
Condensation, whether in a trailer or any other enclosed space, occurs when the temperature of the air drops below the air's dew point.
The warmer air is, the more moisture it can hold.
The colder it is, the less it can hold.
That means that 70°F air at 40% humidity is holding more moisture than 50°F air at 40% humidity.
And believe it or not, that 70°F air is holding twice as much moisture as the 50°F air with the same relative humidity.
Or looked at another way, 100% humidity at 50°F is the same exact amount of moisture as 50% at 70°F.
And this is why we call it "relative humidity" when using percentages to quantify that humidity — it's "relative" to the temperature.
Meteorologist also measure "absolute humidity", but using percentages would make no sense.
Instead, they quantify it as grams of water per cubic meter.
You can expect condensation whenever the air in an enclosed space is cooled.
So, if you close up your trailer in the afternoon, you can expect condensation to occur if the air overnight cools down enough.
The least expensive and best approach to reduce the chances of condensation occuring is to provide adequate ventilation to allow an exchange of air as it cools into the night.
In reality, there really is no way to stop all condensation unless you're willing to spend more time and money.
For example, you could put a dehumidifier inside your trailer.
Of course, it would require electricity and periodic emptying of the condensate pan.
Or, you could buy large desiccants that you place inside the trailer before closing it up.
Then, as the temperature drops and the relative humidity rises, the desiccants will absorb it.
You've seen desiccants before: those are the packets you find inside items wrapped in plastic bags that manufacturers use when shipping expensive electronic products.
You would need big ones for a trailer and would likely find it too expensive for the long run.
Practically speaking, providing for adequate airflow by cracking a vent and a window or so is likely the most common sense approach.
Even then, you'll still have occasional moisture in there when the air is saturated, such as on a foggy evening.
But at least you'll have reduced the frequency of occurrence.
May 6, 2009 – TIRE DRY ROT — WHY?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
The tires on my horse trailer are dry rotting.
The trailer is not even used much.
It just sits near the barn.
Why does dry rot occur?
Just because your trailer is not often in use doesn't mean that its tires are not susceptible to dry rot.
Dry rot in tires is caused by several factors:
- Exposure to Chemicals – Tires on vehicles exposed to more chemicals degrade faster because they combine with the rubber and change its characteristics.
Tires can be exposed to chemicals by accident, such as driving through a spill of some product (paint, oil, gasoline, etc.) or because it is applied, such as products to make the tire look blacker or overspray from bug remover or some other car-maintenance product.
- Time – Rubber degrades over time just as plastics and most other materials do.
It combines with oxygen and other materials in the air in which it comes into contact and that combining with other materials over time changes its characteristics and chemical composition.
While direct exposure to chemicals as mentioned above degrades rubber more quickly, older tires are affected by smaller chemical amounts just because they have been exposed for a longer period of time.
- Heat – As in many chemical reactions, heat acts as a catalyst contributing to accelerated tire degradation.
Heat comes from several sources and tires degrade faster in warmer climates, with hard driving, and in under-inflated tires.
- Exposure to Ultraviolet Radiation (UV) – Tires on cars outside degrade faster because the Sun is able to shine on them during the day.
Cars kept in garages or in shaded areas during the day degrade to a lesser degree.
Rubber is a very complex compound.
While tire manufacturers attempt to make rubber as inert as possible, it is not completely inert and dry rot is the culmination of slow deterioration.
To learn more, see our article on
Tire Safety When Towing Horses.
May 5, 2009 – BROKEN BRANCHES OVERHEAD
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
A branch fell off a tree and landed about 20 feet from my horse and me while riding last weekend on a windy day.
She spooked and it took me a little while to calm her down.
How frequently do branches break and fall like that?
Actually, branches do not break and fall very often.
I don't know how windy it was near you while you were riding, but most of the time, branches primarily break during the higher winds of winter, during thunderstorms, and because of of the weight of snow and ice (in colder climates).
But all those branches don't immediately fall to the ground.
Instead, some fall and get lodged on a lower branch.
Then a small breeze on an otherwise calm day comes along and is the trigger that actually causes the branch to fall to the ground.
One of the habits I've started to form is to look up across the trail frequently while I ride.
That way, I have a better idea of what my horse and I will be going under and the risk involved.
You can't see everything up there once the trees fill with leaves, but I have been surprised at what I'm seeing that I never used to be aware of in the past.
Sometimes, I'll go off the trail and around some trees just to avoid what looks like some precariously perched "junk" sitting on a branch or in a clump of leaves just waiting to fall.
There's no way to guarantee we won't get surprised or even hit, but at least we can reduce our chances and maybe avoid the biggest stuff.
May 4, 2009 – BACK OF SADDLE RISES WHILE RIDING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
The back of my western saddle will often bounce up off my horse when I'm riding.
It's especially bad when going down a steep incline and gives me the "willies" because I feel like I'm going to go over the top of my horse.
Is there any way to fix this?
The likely reason this is happening is because your saddle is affixed to your horse with a cinch that is too near the front of the saddle.
This leaves the back of the saddle unsecured.
Resist the temptation to use a bucking strap to hold the back of the saddle down.
Such a strap should be loose, is not for this purpose, and is therefore not likely to make you feel secure.
It also could upset your horse if it should press in on his stomach.
A better idea is to investigate "center fire rigging".
This will move your cinch back some so it is under the center of your saddle.
BUT, don't just do this on your own because it may put your cinch too far back, or conversely, move your saddle too far forward and over his withers.
You need to do this while working closely with a saddle expert.
You can learn more by searching on QueryHorse using the phrase "center fire rigging".
Once you understand the concept, go to a tack store that has someone who truly understands saddles and discuss your options.
Be sure to bring your own saddle along so he/she can examine it, assure it's in good shape and properly rigged, and can offer some suggestions for moving ahead to solve your problem.
Good luck!
May 1, 2009 – CREATE YOUR OWN HORSE WASH AREA
We're often looking to make our care of horses easier.
This month, Perfect Horse magazine has published an article I wrote for them describing a horse wash rack or wash area that makes rinsing and washing your horse much easier.
It's a permanent installation you can inexpensively build that won't make a mess of your yard.
It's entitled: Build a Wash Rack.
April 30, 2009 – EASY GRAZING OUT ON THE TRAIL
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is there any easy way to let my horse graze when I'm out on the trail?
I always hate to let her eat when she's wearing her bridle.
I share your feelings about not letting our horses graze when wearing a bridle.
For me, I want to make a clear distinction that he's supposed to be working when he has a bit in his mouth.
Therefore, I try to be consistent about not letting him graze at those times.
Conversely, when I remove the bit and he's on a lead line, grazing is ok if we're not in training and I'm not leading him somewhere.
I also spend time with him on a lead line grazing outside his paddock when I visit him most days.
That way, he looks forward to seeing me.
Unfortunately, many riders show up at the barn only when they're going to ride and their horses quickly learn that their owner's presence always means work.
My horse never runs away from me when he sees me with halter in hand, rather, he comes over happy to see me and knowing we're going to do something fun outside his paddock.
So, he's also ok with leaving his paddock mate (though his mate is not so happy about him leaving for a few hours).
As to your question, I ride with a halter bridle.
When we ride to some destination, I'll pull my horse's bit when we arrive.
I have clips on both ends of the reins, so I'll unhook them from the bit and hook one end to the ring on his halter and VOILA!
I now have him on a lead line so he can graze while I eat a sandwich.
This has worked out really well!
I doubt I'll ever go back to a bridle.
April 29, 2009 – IS GPS SCREEN TOO SMALL?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I've started using a GPS while riding and love it!
But I sometimes have a problem reading the screen while riding.
Now I'm in a quandary; should I try to return it for a unit with a bigger screen?
Possibly, but let's explore this a little first.
You didn't mention anything about your visual acuity or as to whether or not you have any vision problems, but if the unit is hard to read when you're sitting still, then the screen could be too small.
In that case, getting a unit with a bigger unit would likely help.
BUT, if the unit is easy to read when still, but difficult when riding, then we should discuss a behavioral issue.
You shouldn't be looking at your GPS while riding unless stopped, or at worse, at a slow, steady walk.
Let me tell you a little story of me doing something similar a few years ago and learning a "very" painful lesson.
I was riding behind a friend on the trail one day at the walk.
I had gotten my new GPS a week before and was still excited to occasionally check it to see how far we'd ridden, for how long, and our top speed to this point.
At that same time, my friend thought it would be good place to canter and neglected to tell me.
Of course, when she signaled her horse to canter and the horse responded, my horse waited about 10 milliseconds and then jumped into a canter himself.
You can imagine where that left me.
I was holding my new GPS in my right hand and the reins in my left.
I was looking down at the unit and when my horse jumped forward, I found myself in the air looking at my horse and friend cantering away.
I landed on the ground on my buttocks and damaged my brand spanking new GPS — I don't know what hurt more!
But I assure you that they both hurt a lot.
My friend should have told me she was about to initiate a canter before doing so and I should have been paying attention to my riding.
I also should have told her that I was going to look at my GPS and not to move quickly.
So, my point in all this is that your GPS could be difficult to see if you're trying to use it while riding.
And from a safety standpoint, that's just not a good idea and I once had the scrapes and a big 6 inch round black and blue contusion in an embarrassing place to prove it.
It's best to stop riding when viewing your GPS and you'll also notice that it's a lot easier to read.
April 28, 2009 – HOW LONG SHOULD REINS BE?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm sometimes told that my reins are too long.
How long should they be?
That can depend on several factors.
For ring work, general practice, or any kind of trail riding, it's really a matter of personal choice.
As I've mentioned in prior responses, the length of a single piece leather rein is limited by the length of an adult cow (about seven feet).
To get longer than that, you need to use two or more pieces of leather, or use some manufactured material, such as cotton or nylon.
If you're showing, the rules of your discipline will likely specify certain tack, so something like a rope rein may not be allowed.
Personally, I don't like short reins that make me bend over a horse's head.
That will upset my balance, and consequently, also the horses.
Conversely, I don't like so much rein that it hangs at my side and risks getting caught on me or the saddle.
That could pose a risk of injury to me and/or the horse.
April 27, 2009 – DOES A LIGHT RAIN MEAN OILING A SADDLE?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I got caught in a light rain last weekend.
A fellow rider tells me that I now need to oil my saddle.
Is that true?
My feeling is, "if in doubt, oil!"
Let's face it, other than our horse, our saddle is usually our most expensive related purchase.
Why not maintain the value, comfort, and long life of that purchase with proper maintenance?
Personally, I oil my saddle lightly, but frequently.
It doesn't take long when a saddle is in good condition and the leather isn't thirsty.
And there are leather wipes that allow you to grab one from the container and give your tack a quick "once over" — it literally takes no more than one or two minutes.
One other option to consider: if you hate tack maintenance, consider buying synthetic tack.
It never needs oiling and you can even hose it down when it needs cleaning.
April 24, 2009 – DETERMINING ALTITUDE WHILE RIDING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I've been using a GPS for riding and love it.
But recently, I bought a watch that includes an altimeter and the elevation indicated by the watch doesn't agree with my GPS altimeter at all.
Sometimes, they've been as much as 500 feet different.
Which one can I trust to be accurate?
Let me guess, you're an engineer or a programmer, right?
Well, you're not going to like this response, but the real answer is: neither one.
First, you need to consider what you mean by the word "accurate".
Do you mean within some acceptable error tolerance?
Or do you mean which one is right?
If the latter, you're going to be disappointed to learn that it will be rare for either device to indicate your exact altitude because they both have limitations in the way they measure.
If you're expecting an acceptable error, that's reasonable; the next question should be: "what is an acceptable error?"
A GPS unit has a typical horizontal distance error within about 50 feet.
It takes four satellites to get an accurate location and if your latitude places some of those satellites too high in the sky or to close to the horizon the accuracy of your location will be still less.
The altitude error is generally specified to be 150% of the horizontal error, so that means you could be at least 75 feet higher or lower than the GPS altitude reading.
Now lets consider your altitude watch.
It uses barometric pressure to measure altitude.
But barometric pressure is always changing as weather fronts move in and out.
So its most accurate reading will be immediately after you set the atmospheric pressure setting of the watch, or you set its altitude at a known location, such as at sea level or at a mountain top where the altitude is known.
But as the minutes go by, the atmospheric pressure is likely changing as the local weather front moves, and as you move horizontally as well as climbing and descending hills.
By way of illustration, consider that this is an extremely important issue for pilots.
When flying, pilots will regularly reset the plane's altimeter based upon radio reports from airport towers in the area they're flying through.
As the plane approaches the destination airport, its tower will report to the pilot the current barometric pressure at the airport so the pilot can make a final adjustment prior to landing.
That will give him/her a somewhat accurate idea as to how high they are above the ground — needless to say, this is important information when contemplating a landing, especially in lower visibility conditions.
Now consider those errors previously explained about GPS technology and add in whether or not you're resetting your watch altimeter to the current barometric pressure of your local area while riding.
Do you even know what the barometric pressure is at any particular location while you ride?
I don't even know how you could determine it.
When someone buys a barometer for use in a home or office, it must initially be adjusted to compensate for the current pressure at the altitude of where it's used — it must not be moved after that.
And here you are riding around on horse covering miles and going up and down hills while the weather is in constant motion.
It's no wonder your GPS and altimeter don't agree — I'm surprised the biggest altitude difference you've seen between these two devices is only 500 feet — that's not much compared to what it could be, such as many thousands of feet different.
Your GPS is likely to be the most accurate altimeter available to you during your rides.
A much more accurate way to know your altitude is to carry a topographical map of the area with you.
Then, you can find your location and read your altitude directly off the map.
It will usually be accurate to within ten vertical feet.
April 23, 2009 – OK TO LEAVE HORSES OUT IN A SUMMER RAIN?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it alright to let your horse stay out in the rain during the summer months?
Yes.
The only time to be concerned is when the weather is somewhat colder, such as in the low 50s and below.
The amount of risk for hypothermia is determined by the actual air temperature of the air, how long the horses will be in the rain, how heavy the rain is, the temperature of the rain itself, etc.
Rain can be warmer or colder than the ambient temperature because it falls from higher altitudes.
And a light rain doesn't take the horse's heat away as quickly as a heavy rain.
Finally, if your horse will be in the rain all day, that will remove more of his heat than if the rain only lasts for an hour.
Of course, horses should be protected or be able to seek protection (such as an available barn or run-in), during high winds and storms, especially thunderstorms.
In these cases, the high winds can accelerate the loss of heat, and storms bring additional risks, such as flying debris and lightening.
And if your horse has an illness or is recovering from a wound or injury, it's always a good idea to check with your veterinarian before leaving him out during inclement weather.
But otherwise, horses don't even seem to mind the rain in the warm, summer months.
April 22, 2009 – BRAND NEW RIDER LONGS FOR THE TRAILS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm a new rider and my balance isn't very good.
I really want to try trail riding, but I'm afraid the horse might move quickly and I'd end up on the ground.
How can I go trail riding safely?
Reposted and expanded as separate article. See: Getting into Trail Riding article.
April 21, 2009 – RIDING, HORSE GIRL STYLE
Last week, I went trail riding with the Horse Girl.
As you might suspect, it was a fun and exhausting time.
The Horse Girl is an excellent rider and takes on formidable challenges, like her current project of training several young, green, Thoroughbreds straight off the racetrack.
So as you can imagine, riding with this women is not exactly for the faint of heart.
Reading her responses to questions in her column, she often comes across as "plucky" — let me tell ya, plucky only gives you a hint — she's tough!
That said, so are green horses, and giving them some freedom to run while also asserting control takes energy and stamina.
Of course, truth be told, I was merely needed to set the pace and be along as a "safety rider".
So, why was it that I also was sore and tired at the end our ride???
It's likely because the Horse Girl doesn't do anything half way.
If we're training, we're Training.
If we're riding, then darn it, we're RIDING.
And if we're galloping…shudders…we're GALLOPING!
So, if you should ever come across the Horse Girl out on the trail and decide to just "tag along", you might want to first assess what the heck you think you're doing.
And if she offers to race and you're considering it, I'd start asking yourself questions about your state of health, do you have enough life insurance, and such.
Because I'll say it again, riding with this woman is not exactly for the faint of heart.
But it is a blast!
April 20, 2009 – COMPREHENSIVE ARTICLE ABOUT WIND & HORSES
I've had a lot of questions about wind spooking horses lately.
This is common in the spring and autumn where the changing seasons cause more windy days than usual.
Rather than answer each question individually, I've prepared a more comprehensive article about the subject of wind and why it makes many horses uncomfortable.
It's called, appropriately enough, Horses and Wind.
April 17, 2009 – SUN GLASSES WHILE RIDING?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can you wear sunglasses while riding a horse?
Sure!
As long as it's not at night.
While a mild case could be made that it's safer to not be wearing glasses in the event that we could end up on the ground, many riders must wear eyeglasses to see — sunglasses are no more dangerous.
I wear sunglasses every time I ride on sunny days; and my favorite days to ride are those sunny days.
When entering a thickly wooded area of the trail, that area is usually much darker and it's nice to be able to remove my sunglasses and see well without waiting several minutes for my eyes to adjust.
Similarly, when exiting such an area, it's nice to be able to don sunglasses and not be blinded by the much brighter light.
And when riding in an outdoor paddock for training, I again prefer to wear shades if in bright sun.
Essentially, sunglasses give you more options and also provide the side benefit of reducing the chance of eye damage due to ultraviolet rays.
Therefore, ALWAYS make sure to wear only those sunglasses rated to block UV radiation.
April 16, 2009 – HOW DO I MEASURE MY RIDING SPEED?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is there any way I can measure how fast my horse and I go at a gallop?
There sure is and I use it all the time on long trail rides!
It's called a GPS.
Most GPS units I've seen have a feature called a "Trip Computer".
It measures many parameters, such as your maximum speed for the trip (which is what you're asking about), your average speed, the distance traveled, how long you've been on your trip, and even more information.
At the beginning of your trip, trail ride, or whatever it is you want to measure, select the "Trip Computer" feature and reset it.
That will "zero" its timers and sensors, and start them going from that point on.
When you're finished your ride, look at the Trip Computer screen and it will give you the information I listed above.
Most GPS units also have a tracking feature.
This feature allows you to upload your trip to a computer and overlay it on a topographical map to see where you went on your ride.
It won't only show you you're path; for any point shown, you'll also be able to see your speed and elevation above sea level.
It can be a lot of fun to truly see the miles you covered and the speeds you went — even if you don't have a little geekiness in you as I do.
Have fun!
April 15, 2009 – HIGH-CAPACITY TOW HITCH
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I need a high-capacity tow hitch; what are my options?
I've answered similar questions on March 13th, 2009 and February 18th, 2009 (see below).
A more comprehensive discussion is available in the article Getting Properly Hitched.
Good luck!
April 14, 2009 – "CAR GPS FOR TRAIL RIDING?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm thinking of using my car GPS for trail riding.
Will it work ok?
Sure!
Any battery operated GPS will work to help you navigate by road or "as the crow flies".
However, most car GPS units come only with a map of local, state, and national highways.
Using your car GPS with only a highway map will leave you with large blank areas when you're on the trail.
A topographical (topo) map would be more useful to you for this application.
Most manufacturers offer a suite of maps from which you can choose from topos and highways to state or national forests and waterways.
Get one of the topos, or one of the forest maps if you ride in the state or national forests — they will make your car GPS a lot more useful to you when on the trails.
April 13, 2009 – "RIDING IN THE RAIN" DANGERS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How do I keep my horse dry from a heavy rain while on a trail ride?
Other than not riding that day, I don't have any other solutions for you.
If the weather is above 50 °F, it's usually not much of a problem for a healthy horse if he gets wet while out on the trail.
As big animals, horses have a large heat reserve.
A bigger concern would be your own safety.
You can get hypothermia when in the rain for a prolonged period at normally comfortable temperatures in the 70s — it's even riskier and takes less time when temperatures are colder in the 50s a or 60s.
For that reason, it's a good idea to wear or carry rain gear that provides enough freedom of movement when riding on those days when rain is expected and you're going far from the barn.
If you're talking about colder weather, I keep my horse and myself inside on those days when it's raining outside — it's just not worth the risk.
I was an EMT years ago and was surprised to learn how easily people can get into trouble in normally moderate temperatures when they get wet and can't get into a warm space and dry clothes for a while.
One other thing to be watchful for is water on the ground.
When it rains, puddles will form that can be slippery once mixed with soil.
Also, slow moving rivers and brooks can quickly get deeper and run faster.
It's generally ok to ride in warm, light rain during the warmer months; think about the foregoing and just be careful.
April 10, 2009 – HARSH BITS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse doesn't listen to me and the barn owner has suggested I use a double-twisted wire bit.
Do you agree?
As with the topic of slaughter, the area of bits is often hotly debated.
Though, I've never been afraid of a debate.
From my postings, readers will likely have noticed that I have an aversion to harsh bits.
At the same time, they'll also notice that I have complete respect for the power of horses and the recognition that we humans must be the "boss" when interacting with them for safety reasons.
So, I understand why people start considering stronger bits when they don't feel in control of their horse.
Horses are so very powerful and being near or on one that has a mind of his own is a scary and dangerous situation.
That said, I think there are much better ways to deal with the problem other than hurting the horse's mouth to establish control.
A double twisted wire bit can be an extreme bit — very severe, and able to cause a lot of pain.
Because the thinness of the twisted wire concentrates rein forces on a small area, this bits whole purpose is to tenderize the horse's bars just by being there and then to cause serious pain to his mouth when the rider pulls on the reins.
In the area of bits, there are two schools of thought: 1) that a harsh bit can be used to control an unruly horse; 2) that there are better ways to control horses than harsh bits and brute force.
The problem with the first approach is that it seems to appeal to riders disinclined to invest the time to develop a good relationship with the horse.
If that's the case, my feeling (which is unpopular with subscribers to this approach) is that they should just go drive cars, motorcycles, or some other inanimate vehicle rather than try to control an animal as if it was a machine.
The second approach, and the one to which I personally subscribe, is that the safest way to be around horses, to ride them, and to control them, is to take the time to learn about them, how they interact, and work to earn their respect.
The result is a very amenable horse that actually enjoys his interaction with his leader: you.
All of this should not infer that there is no place for some of the stronger bits.
Employed properly by an experienced horseperson using soft hands, there is a place for them when used for training and competing.
Qualified and experienced riders may use such a bit to signal the horse with the very slightest of pressure so the horse seems to automatically know what to do next, especially in fine competition.
But for the rest of us, I prefer milder bits and riders that are willing to learn how to safely enjoy and control horses without a "brute force" approach.
April 9, 2009 – RIDING IN SNEAKERS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I like to ride in sneakers, but the barn owner keeps telling me I need a shoe or boot with a heel so it won't slip through.
Is it really that much of a risk?
YES!
IT IS!
Unless you think you'd enjoy the fun of being dragged over rocks, trees, and stumps at high speed by a familiar and very powerful four-legged animal in a panicked state.
And it's not only about the need for a shoe with a heel.
Sneakers generally have fairly deep treads so they'll "grip" the ground and keep you from slipping.
But "gripping the stirrup" is the exact opposite of what you want when riding a horse.
Look at the sole of a paddock boot and you'll notice that it's somewhat different than traditional shoe treads and quite smooth.
This is because riding footwear is also made to grip the ground, yet NOT GRIP the stirrup.
That's so it will slip out of the stirrup if you slip out of the saddle — a very desirable thing!
Finally, many forms of riding footwear are also waterproof.
If you think that getting water seeping into a shoe when you accidentally step in a puddle is bad, consider the feeling when you step into an equine waste product — then, you may as well throw the shoe away.
My advice: lose the sneakers when around the barn and invest in a good quality paddock or riding boot for your discipline.
April 8, 2009 – TRAILERING ON WINDY DAYS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'm having trouble trailering my horse on very windy days.
What do I do?
Wind can make trailering more troublesome on several levels.
A normally easy-to-load horse could give you some trouble when the wind is up.
This is because the wind alone can make horses uneasy — trailering will do the same to some — mix them together and you've got twice as many reasons that a horse may feel anxious.
And if the wind blows things around on the ground, your horse can spook.
Even more important, assure the wind can't blow the trailer doors into you or your horse while loading or unloading.
Such an incident could injure either or both of you as well as cause your horse to panic.
That would be bad if your horse spooked and ran outside, even worse if it happened when he was in the trailer and you're nearby or in there with him.
Once underway on the road, the safest way to tow a trailer when it's windy is to drive more slowly.
If the wind is strong enough move your trailer and tow vehicle, you'll have more time to assess the situation and correct it at slower speeds.
At higher speeds, especially when the wind is gusty, things can happen too quickly and get completely out of hand before you can regain control.
April 7, 2009 – LOOK AHEAD — NOT DOWN
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What happens when you look down while riding a horse?
Reposted as separate article. See: Upsetting Balance by Looking Down article.
April 6, 2009 – KICKING WITH OR WITHOUT SHOES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Which is worse, being kicked with a horse that's barefoot or with shoes on?
In truth, I don't know — I've never measured it or heard of anyone else measuring it.
Nor have I ever seen an article about this topic or heard it discussed.
But from the standpoint of basic physics, the kick should be slightly harder when the horse is wearing shoes.
This is because he'll have lifted his feet with the slightly increased weight of the shoes and accelerated that extra mass along with his feet and delivering it all to the target being kicked (hopefully, not a person).
Force equals mass times acceleration, so the more mass or the more acceleration, the greater the force.
April 3, 2009 – JOCKEY BALANCE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How do jockeys stay balanced?
The same way you and I do.
Of course, their level of skill at remaining balanced is generally far better than most of us because it has to be.
Consider their racing position: they're above their saddle in "two point " throughout the race, and at high speed.
But saying that we need to be "balanced" in any particular position doesn't help one understand how balance is achieved or maintained.
So, I want to point you to an informative article written by the Horse Girl explaining the importance of being in balance while riding, and even more important, how to achieve it.
Balance is important in all riding positions whether at the walk, trot, canter, gallop, and more (racing, jumping, cutting, tölt, largo, etc.)
The better balanced we are as riders, the less work our horse has to do, the better able he/she will be to make a jump, a turn, or other maneuver, and the safer we and our horse will be while riding.
If not properly balanced, the rider can upset the horse's gait or jump, and this will risk our safety as well as that of our horse.
In a poorly balanced position, we riders could actually pull our horse over at speed or flub a jump, either of which could cause a situation where the horse, we, or both could be hurt or killed.
The article is entitled appropriately enough, as: Riding Balance.
April 2, 2009 – FLUORESCENT BULB DANGERS?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Isn't light from fluorescent bulbs dangerous to horses?
This question has come up several times and has surprised me.
We've lived with fluorescent lighting in homes and offices for years without problems.
Perhaps the question is a concern because of the recent and quick adoption of compact fluorescent bulbs.
The primary risk is that of broken glass, and that's an issue with any bulb except LEDs, but LED bulbs are not yet cost effective or bright enough, though they will be in a few years.
I decided to write a more in-depth response in the form of an article.
I hope it helps dispel concerns for us and our friendly, furry beasts.
It's entitled: Fluorescent Bulbs in the Barn.
April 1, 2009 – A SPOOK OR SOMETHING ELSE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I love to ride, but my horse has a problem spooking to everything which makes him buck me off.
Is there something I can attach to my western saddle to keep me from flying off?
This may not simply be a spooking issue, but I'll answer your question first and then move on to other possibilities.
There's no one item that'll guarantee you won't get bucked off.
But you can reduce your chances by grabbing something solidly affixed to your saddle.
On a Western saddle, that's usually the horn.
But if you have no horn on it, a monkey grip is usually the fallback device.
In fact, I answered a related question yesterday (see below) about affixing one to a saddle.
But a more important issue is not how to hold on, rather, it's that you shouldn't have to do that with such frequency.
If this is truly a spook situation, for your own safety, you need to desensitize your horse to the more common things that are spooking him so he remains calm when he sees something new and unfamiliar.
If you don't know how to do that, you should work with a trainer to solve the problem now, to learn the techniques yourself for other spook sources your horse will experience, and for repeating the process with other horses you'll ride/own in the future.
If you do a search for desensitizing techniques, then you should also know that it's sometimes called "sacking out a horse", and so, you should also do some searching with that phrase.
Now, back to the first question that popped into my mind when I read about your problem: are you sure this is really spooking?
Most spooked horses want to bolt to safety, not buck off the rider.
So this could actually be a control and respect issue.
If your horse is bucking, that's usually one of two things: 1) he's frisky and excited, whether to get outside and run or because the weather changed — horses often get excited at the end of summer when the first cool, dry air moves in; or 2) he's annoyed at you and is either telling you to stop, or is actually trying to get you off.
If the reason for his bucking is because of the weather, you may want to longe him before riding to let him get some of that excess energy out.
You may also want to look into whether or not he's getting enough turnout — horses were never meant to spend all or most of the day in a stall.
HOWEVER, if your horse is trying to get you off his back, you've got a more serious problem that will require the help of a good trainer, both to teach him that his behavior is unacceptable and for you to learn how to be his leader.
You can't ignore this issue — it's too dangerous.
March 31, 2009 – A MONKEY GRIP
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can I make a monkey grip for my Aussie saddle?
Sure!
Such a grip is nothing more than a strap of rope or leather that connects across the front of the pommel.
In fact, you could make one for a Western, English, or any other kind of saddle also.
Of course, if you have a Western or Aussie saddle with a horn, you really don't need a grip because you can just grab the horn.
The purpose of a monkey grip is just to give you something to hold on to if your horse suddenly jigs and you lose your balance — it's not for anything stronger, like towing a car.
The first thing you need to do is find a way of securing the ends.
Below is a photo of my saddle with a braided monkey grip.
Such a grip cost me $25 when I ordered the saddle from the Australian Stock Saddle Company.
It's connected at both ends with footmans loop, but any other kind of secure fastener would also work.
And a grip could be a simpler piece of leather or even just a rope.
Just assure that the grip is strong enough for its purpose, is wide enough so it doesn't cut into your hand, and that it's secured well enough to support your weight or that of any other rider that might quickly need to reach for it during a quick, off-balance moment.
March 30, 2009 – LOW-MAINTENANCE TACK
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I just went down to my basement to get my tack, and my saddle and bridles look disastrous!
This seems to happen over every winter and it's such a pain to clean the mold, dirt, and grime off each spring.
Is there no easier way?
In fact, there is an easier way; it's called: synthetic tack.
This tack uses man-made materials, such as nylon and other plastics that are impervious to water, bacteria, and fungi.
If they get dirty, all you need do is hose them off and let them air-dry — you never need to wipe them dry or re-oil them.
Some manufacturers that make such tack are Wintec, Fabtron, Abetta, some Weaver products, and many others.
For what it's worth, I have both a synthetic and a leather saddle.
I'll use the synthetic saddle when the forecast is "iffy" and I'm afraid I may get caught in the rain before I get back to the barn.
But interestingly, while the synthetic requires far less maintenance, I still love the feeling and look of real leather, even though it means more work to maintain.
As the Horse Girl has said to me many times, "there's just something about fine, Corinthian leather".
(Of course, she always says this in a luscious, silky voice, so I presume she also secretly does voice-overs for television ads, though I have no such proof).
March 27, 2009 – VACUUMING YOUR HORSE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it ok to use a vacuum on your horse when he's shedding?
That depends on the horse.
First, there are products made specifically for this purpose and I recommend getting one of them rather than using your home or shop vac.
These devices are designed to be quieter and have attachments made to safely groom a horse.
In fact, enter "horse vacuum" into QueryHorse's search box, click Ride!, and you'll get hundreds of listings.
BUT, using it is where you need to be careful.
You may need to desensitize your horse to the vacuum's sound slowly before putting it into use.
And also consider that it may take some time, because, separate from the whine of the motor running, the sound of rushing air is a lot like the sound of a snake hissing, which most animals from cats and dogs to horses all instinctively know and fear.
Go slow, and if you have problems, consult the help of a trainer.
Once your horse comfortably accepts its use, you may want to make use of it regularly so that it remains a familiar and trusted item with which you groom him.
CAUTIONS:
- NEVER use a vacuum on a wet horse — you'll risk electric shock or electrocution to both you and the horse.
- Be careful about the cord.
It can be a tripping hazard for both of you and you definitely don't want your horse to ever chew it.
- Keep away from your horse's eyes and ears with the vacuum hose and attachments.
You don't want any kind of injury occurring and also don't want to be near a frightened horse, even worse when tied or in an enclosed space.
March 26, 2009 – EQUINE JOBS/CAREERS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
We often get questions asking about job/career opportunities related to horses.
Therefore, instead of answering each one independently, we decided to actually write a series over the next few months offering information about some of those careers.
The first begins today with some insight into the size of the horse market and a small, sample list of the vast equine career possibilities.
It's entitled: Equine Occupations — A Starting Point.
March 25, 2009 – POSTING IN A WESTERN SADDLE?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it possible to post in a western saddle?
Yes, though the post is usually a little smaller.
Regardless, it still allows you to synchronize with your horse and avoid an otherwise bumpy ride.
It's also possible to post in an Australian saddle with knee poleys.
The poleys do limit your range of movement, so the post is smaller still, but you're able to synchronize with the horse's trot.
The timing of the post and coordinating it with your horse's trotting speed is more important than the range of movement.
March 24, 2009 – CONVERTING MEN TO LOVE HORSES?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How can I tell the guy I'm starting to date that he better like my horse, too?
Ahhhh!
I'm not sure I even should venture out into giving equine dating advice, but here goes.
While most horse lovers in the USA are female, the fact is, I, too, have been unable to entice men, or even women, to like horses if they don't already feel that way.
Therefore, the most you can do is find a man that already likes horses or one that is at least open to the prospect.
It seems that love of animals, and especially horses, is in our blood or it isn't.
For some of us, it's a real addiction from which we don't want to be rescued.
March 23, 2009 – SHOULD I CALL THE VET?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse got kicked in the nose by another horse and it's bleeding.
Should I call a vet?
Yes, call your vet.
Whenever you feel an injury is significant enough to wonder about calling a vet, you really should make the call.
If it was just a scrape or a bite, you'd know that a vet is not needed.
The fact that you're unsure means it's more serious, but not obvious, and only an examination by a vet will determine the severity for sure.
This means you may occasionally call a vet unnecessarily, but that's a better thing to do than not call when you should have done so, and letting your horse suffer for several days, or worse, begin down a path to a condition that may cost him his life.
That can happen due to infection, organ damage, internal bleeding, puncture wounds, digestive tract impactions, and much more.
Certainly, the fact your horse got kicked in the head means it could be very serious.
March 20, 2009 – WHEN TO STOP BRUSHING A SHEDDING HORSE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse is starting to shed.
How much winter hair should I try to remove at each brushing?
You need to keep in mind that horse grooming is not rocket science.
There's no need to remove all of your horse's winter hair in one grooming session.
In fact, you can't, because the hair is not shed all at one time and your horse is likely to get sensitive and quite annoyed at you if you keep brushing too long and make his skin sensitive.
So, let yourself and your horse "off the hook".
When you groom him, do what you normally do and you'll notice when the amount of winter hair coming off begins to slow down.
When that happens, you've done enough in that area for this day — move on to another.
Your grooming session may take a little longer when your horse is shedding, but shouldn't take much longer.
Remember, it's not your goal to remove all winter hair at one time.
It's all going to come out over a few weeks whether you groom your horse or not.
Your work is ONLY to remove the loose hair that's already been released by the follicles.
March 19, 2009 – TRAILER BACKUP LIGHTS DON'T WORK
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
The reverse lights on my horse trailer don't come on.
How do I fix them?
I'm afraid that step-by-step instructions about how to troubleshoot and repair such a problem is beyond the scope of this column, but I'll give you some suggestions on the easiest stuff to get you started.
Fixing any problem begins with a methodical approach to a diagnoses.
First, check the bulbs in the backup lights on the trailer — are both bulbs good and not burnt out?
If good, look at the connector pins on the trailer and tow vehicle connection plugs — do they all look ok?
Is there any sign of burning or corrosion?
If all looks good, you now need to apply both a ground and 12 volt DC power to the correct pins in the connector to the trailer to see if the lights come on.
The correct pins will depend on which connector your setup uses.
If you know the right pins, apply ground and power and walk around back to see if the lights come on.
If they do, the problem is in the tow vehicle wiring from the trailer plug forward.
If they don't, the problem is between the connector and the backup lights.
In either case, it will help to have both an electrical tester and a basic knowledge of electricity to go further.
If you don't know the correct pins to perform the above test, don't have a tester, or don't have basic electrical knowledge, it's time to get a professional involved to determine whether the problem is in the tow vehicle or the trailer, and then to trace out where it specifically is.
March 18, 2009 – UNCURLING LEATHER
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How can I flatten leather that has curled on my saddle?
Reposted as separate article. See: Flattening Curled Leather article.
March 17, 2009 – EQUINE "FORWARDNESS"
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What does "forward" mean when referring to a horse?
I've heard the word used in several different ways.
Some have used the word "forward" similarly to the way it's used with a person, that is, a bold horse that feels it can do what it wants and push through you — that's a disrespectful horse.
I've also heard it used to mean a spirited horse as opposed to one that is "laid back" and quieter.
In some disciplines, it's used when referring to the degree of motion that is moving forward.
The speaker may mention the horse needs to move "more forward".
We've all seen or ridden a horse that seems to move at an angle, so essentially, he's not forward enough and needs to move more forward without the sideways component.
There may also be other meanings of the word related to horses; I certainly don't pretend to know them all.
March 16, 2009 – EXCEEDING THE GROSS TRAILER WEIGHT RATING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can you exceed the gross trailer weighting on a hitch, at least for a short time?
Repeat after me: NEVER EXCEED THE GROSS WEIGHT RATING ON ANYTHING — EVER!!!
These weight limits are provided for a purpose — the safety of you, your passengers, your horses, and any other nearby people with which we share the road.
Exceeding a rating is not just a matter of potentially breaking the hitch or the coupler, the bigger issue is losing control while driving.
If that should ever happen, you'll have a multi-thousand (or multi-ten thousand) pound weapon careening down the road at speed with no control.
You will be responsible and could take many lives as well as your own — DON'T DO IT!!!
March 13, 2009 – BUMPER-PULL VERSUS GOOSENECK?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it better to get a gooseneck trailer than a bumper pull one?
The reason for the different types of hitches is not because one is better than another, it's because they're designed for different weight loads.
A bumper-pull hitch is actually mounted to the frame of your tow vehicle and can generally be used for two and three horse trailers.
Once you go to four or more horses or get a two or three horse trailer that has more room, whether for sleeping or living quarters or just for more cargo area, you need a hitch rated for higher pulling and tongue loads than can be handled with a bumper-pull hitch.
That can take the form of gooseneck or fifth-wheel hitches.
Because they can handle a bigger tow load, they're more expensive and require a larger tow vehicle and hitch mounted in the truck's bed — it's a bigger financial commitment all the way around and worth it if you need it, but likely not worth it if you don't.
For more information, you may want to read an article I wrote explaining the different hitches in September 2008 entitled: Getting Properly Hitched.
March 12, 2009 – FINDING DUDE RANCHES
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My husband and I are considering visiting a dude ranch this summer and don't know where to go.
Any suggestions?
Rather than me offering only the limited suggestions that I know about, the best way for you to explore such vacations is to use QueryHorse directly — just a few clicks will get you started.
First, look over to QueryHorse's left column in the lower area entitled: Browse The Horse Web — this lists the top level of horse topic areas.
Click on the one labeled Vacations.
Then, click on the sub-topic labeled: Dude Ranches and VOILA!!!
You've got hundreds and hundreds of links to dude ranches.
If you know part of the name or want to search for dude ranches in a particular state, at the top of the page right under the search box, click the button that's labeled: Search Only Documents Within the Dude Ranches Topic.
Then, enter the name of the state, such as montana and click the Ride button.
QueryHorse will list ONLY the dude ranch documents that mention "Montana" on them and you'll find lots of Montana dude ranches.
Have fun!
March 11, 2009 – RIDING IN THE RAIN
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it ok to ride my horse when it's raining?
Sure!
Horses were used for transportation through all kinds of weather prior to the advent of the automobile.
But there are some precautions you need to consider.
If it's cold, you need to assure that both you and your horse can keep fairly dry or you both risk hypothermia.
Your horse will do better than you because of his much greater heat stores in that bigger body, but even he will lose too much heat over time if the temperature is low enough (in the 50s °F or lower) or he's not in good health.
Also consider that leather tack will require a thorough drying and re-oiling after the ride.
If you don't, it will become dry and brittle, and cracking is not far behind.
However, synthetic tack can just dry and will be ok.
But if you've ever been riding in the rain, even very warm rain, you may find it less romantic than expected.
The rain can sting as it hits you; you can't see well; the ground becomes muddy and slippery, so you have to travel more slowly; your soaked clothes get quite heavy; your belt, wallet, and any other leather items must be dried and possibly oiled — you get the idea.
Frankly, the only time I've ever ridden in the rain is when I've gotten caught in an unexpected downpour while out on the trail.
If I know it's going to be raining, I'll reschedule the ride, ride early enough to avoid the rain, or ride inside.
Riding in the rain is not the most comfortable experience for us humans.
Though, horses don't seem to mind the rain in warm weather, especially if they can keep grazing.
If you're going to turn your horse out on a rainy day, consider a waterproof blanket on those colder days so he/she won't lose too much heat while out there.
The blanket will keep most of him dry except for his head, neck, and legs.
March 10, 2009 – HORSE INSIDE WHEN GROUND IS SLIPPERY
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it mean to keep a horse in his stall when it's icy outside?
I think you should always do what's in the best interest of your horse.
If it's so icy that I'm concerned my horse could fall and hurt himself, I keep my horse inside.
If this goes on for a few days, I'll run him back and forth inside the barn at the trot while running beside him — he seems to really enjoy this.
I'm sure it feels good to be moving after being "stall bound" for a few days, and maybe he just likes running with his "herd of two".
If you have an indoor arena or a barn big enough to ride in, your options increase in that you can tack up and actually ride instead of just running beside your horse.
This will let you get some riding in, maybe even some cantering, and it'll help your horse stay in better shape.
Regardless, it's not mean, but rather smart, to keep your horse inside when you're concerned about his health and safety.
March 9, 2009 – HOLDING ON DURING A SPOOK
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it ok to hold onto the horn of my saddle when my horse spooks?
Yes — in fact, it's ok to hold onto almost anything that safely keeps you on your horse.
Besides the horn, grabbing a handful of your horse's mane is also a viable approach.
Some saddle manufacturers offer what they call a "monkey strap" that runs across the front of the pommel.
If you have an English, Western, or Australian saddle without a horn, you can often add a strap to the pommel's front that you can quickly grab when needed.
Also, keep in mind that when your horse makes a quick movement, it's only natural to quickly grip him you're your legs.
In that situation, don't forget to grip ONLY with your thighs, and not to grip with your calves.
That latter action will cause many horses to run, especially if already spooked.
That might cause the initial spook excitement to turn into a real adventure you'd rather not experience.
March 6, 2009 – DIRT FLOORS IN BARNS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is a dirt-floor barn ok for colder climates?
Dirt floors are found in barns of all climates.
But by itself, it's not an ideal floor for any of them.
The dirt will get tracked around and worn down in places of high traffic.
In the winter, the dirt can lose much of its moisture due to the very dry air.
Then, just walking through by people or horses will stir up dust that can settle on stored hay and will also be breathed in by us and the horses.
A better solution is to put down an improved surface in the stalls, such as compacted rock dust covered with mats or a level dirt floor covered with mats.
Without a mat, compacted rock dust is too hard a surface, will become unlevel through normal wear, and will make your horse's legs sore by the concussive shock from just walking.
A concrete floor is also easy to keep clean, but it doesn't drain as well as the compacted rock dust or a dirt floor and is even harder on your horses and our own legs causing soreness.
Mats on a level dirt floor or a compacted rock dust floor provide good drainage and ease of cleaning..
If you have a barn big enough to trot or canter within (something you'd likely want to do in inclement weather and the winter), that SHOULD NOT be done on any hard floor, such as concrete or compacted rock dust because it will cause horses to develop shin splints.
A dirt floor or dirt covered with mats is much safer for your horse's legs when any gaits faster than a walk will be used.
March 5, 2009 – BATHING YOUR HORSE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How do you train your horse to be comfortable getting a bath?
Like most fears that some horses can have, you need to take your time and work on desensitizing them.
Our resident horse trainer, Jen Goddard did a fine article on this subject in January.
It's entitled: Step 6: Water & Bathing.
March 4, 2009 – DANGEROUS SNAFFLES?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can a snaffle bit hurt my horse?
It can if improperly used or the wrong one is selected.
In fact, any bit can hurt a horse.
A bit that provides leverage with long shanks and a curb chain, such as a pelham, can significantly multiply the force pulled on the reins by the rider.
Some will multiply the applied force seven or eight times.
So if you have a snaffle that multiplies your force by six times and you pull with 40 pounds of force when surprised, you'll be applying 240 pounds on your horse's mouth.
Therefore, it's easy to apply too much force and such bits should only be used by riders trained to use them properly.
But back to snaffle bits, if the mouthpiece is thin, uses single or double-twisted wire, incorporates a slow twist, etc., such a bit can apply its force on a small surface resulting is severe pain or injury to the horse's mouth.
A snaffle with a wider and smoother mouthpiece is less painful and less likely to hurt a horse.
The real key to easy control is not a harsh bit, but rather a well-trained horse and properly trained rider that has the respect of the horse.
In reality, the more severe bits, if used at all, should only be used by the most experienced riders because they are most aware of proper usage and the risk of injury to the horse.
For a more comprehensive treatment about bits, see our Understanding Bits article.
March 3, 2009 – ROLLING IN THE MUD
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Will mud hurt a horse?
Horses regularly roll in mud to help keep flies away in warmer weather.
Many horses also roll in mud in colder weather.
For all that rolling, I've not seen a horse get hurt unless some mud gets into their eyes or they roll over something sharp.
So, keep your fields free of sharp objects for this and many other reasons.
If your horse ever does get mud in one of his eyes, you'll likely see it swollen and possibly weeping — it needs to be irrigated with clean water.
Normal saline would be better and less uncomfortable, but the key is to wash out the irritant.
If in doubt as to whether there is a more serious problem, have your vet look at him.
March 2, 2009 – RIDING A NEW HORSE ALONE?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I just bought a new horse and brought him to my barn.
Should I ride my new horse alone or with company?
It depends on the horse's temperament, you, what you're doing, and where you're riding.
If you're riding in a ring and are confident about your riding skills, your horse will sense that and be more comfortable.
If you're not so confident, he'll also sense that and likely be less comfortable — most horses are going to take their lead from you.
A very skittish horse might be uncomfortable regardless of your confidence, and in this case, you may want to work with a trainer initially.
Now, if you're a trail rider, you may want to have at least one other rider go with you out onto the trail regardless of your competence, confidence, and your horse's temperament.
This is because your new horse hasn't yet gotten to know you, trust you, and feel comfortable with you.
Add the newness of a strange trail on top of all that and you've got a combination of unknowns that can frighten many horses.
After you've ridden him with others at least several times and he's come to know the area and what to expect, he'll feel better being with you than he will at first.
Of course, he may never truly like being out on a trail alone with you just because horses feel safest in numbers.
However, working with him to establish that you're the alpha and that you're competent and confident without being unfair or harsh will all help him to feel that being alone with you is the next best thing to being in a herd of horses.
February 27, 2009 – HORSE MOVING WHILE BEING MOUNTED
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I took some heat from one of the trainers at the barn last weekend when mounting my horse.
She moved as I was lifting myself up into the saddle.
I know she does this, so I just mount quickly once my foot is in the stirrup.
This is not really a big deal, is it?
Yes, I'm afraid it is.
Whether your horse moving while you're mounting is the result of not respecting you, her knowing that you always ask her to move off after you mount, or just being anxious to get going, this behavior could result in you falling to the ground and possibly even being stepped upon.
Another thing to consider is what could happen if you mounted one day without anticipating her moving off because you were preoccupied with something else on your mind.
Or your horse could move too close to a tree or building and scrape you off before you're mounted and in full control.
Or what if you let someone else ride your horse?
You MUST teach your horse to remain still while you mount and not move until you actually ask her to do so.
After all, unless she does that, you're not actually in control of this thousand plus pound muscular beast.
February 26, 2009 – BASHKIR CURLYS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Can you tell me anything about the personality of the Bashkir Curly breed?
I'm afraid my knowledge of this breed is limited.
I have a friend who has a hybrid that's 75% Bashkir Curly and 25% Belgian Draft.
I've been around him often, ridden with he and my friend for hundreds of trail hours and ridden him myself several times, but that is my only experience with this breed.
I can tell you a little about him specifically.
He tends to be sensitive and very forgiving.
He tries hard to please and generally does best with a gentle hand.
I've heard these characteristics are typical of the breed and that they are, therefore, good horses for new riders.
That said, they're still horses and this one is occasionally strong-willed, but in a gentle sort of way.
Finally, this is the only breed said to be hypoallergenic, which makes them great candidates for those people having allergies.
I did a photo article about this very horse last year entitled (appropriately enough) Bashkir Curly and described an occasion where a women with many allergies had no sensitivity reaction while near this horse.
You can learn still more by clicking on the Breeds topic in the Browse the Horse Web section at the left.
Then click on the Bashkir Curly breed.
February 25, 2009 – REMOVABLE REINS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I'd like to be able to unclip my reins from my horse's bit.
What kind of clips should I use?
There are several varieties, but most people use a scissors clip (see below).
When you connect the reins, make sure the thumb lever is on the outside — not the side facing your horse's cheeks.
If it does, it can chafe him.
One more thing, some horses are startled by the sound of the clip moving on the bit.
If that happens, your horse may need to get used to that sound, and some horses may never be comfortable with it.
If so, you may have to remove them.
But give it a try and see how it works.
Most horses are ok with it.
Scissors Clip
February 24, 2009 – WESTERN REIN OPTIONS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I ride western and hate split reins.
What other options are there?
Not all western reins are split.
You can get leather reins that are made of one piece of leather, but they may be too short for you: 7 - 8 feet or so.
That's because you can't get a single piece of leather longer than the side of a cow.
You can get much longer leather reins that incorporate a buckle in the middle.
But personally, I'm not comfortable with them because a quick move by my horse could quickly slide that buckle through my fingers with the risk of slicing them.
You can also get non-leather reins of almost any length.
That's because they're not made of leather, and therefore, not limited by the size of a cow.
In this category, you'll find rope reins and flat cotton reins,
I use 5/8" nylon rope reins and really like them.
I have big hands and they provide something more substantial to grasp and hold.
February 23, 2009 – BREAKAWAY HALTERS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I've heard the term "breakaway halter" from others at the barn, but don't know what it is.
Can you help?
A breakaway halter is a nylon halter with the head strap made of leather.
So it has the purported "breakaway" ability of a leather halter, but without the higher price of a full-leather halter.
There is general feeling among many horse people that a leather halter is safer for a horse than one made of nylon.
The fear is that a horse that panics wearing a nylon halter that is tied might thrash and hurt himself trying to get free; so the belief is that the nylon halter is not only stronger, but too strong for a horse to break.
A leather halter will supposedly break if a horse pulls hard enough and that will allow him to run away and calm down.
Quite honestly, I don't know how a nylon halter truly compares with one made of leather, because I don't know anyone that's tested them nor of any reports of testing by any company or laboratory.
Unfortunately, like many aspects of the horse world, wives tales, rumors, and "legends" seem to be passed along for generations with few questioning them, and disdain by the "true believers" is meted out upon the sorry few that have the unmitigated audacity to raise those questions.
I will say that I've seen some pretty thick, meaty leather halters, especially in the Thoroughbred racing industry, and I'm quite sure they're much stronger than the typical nylon halter.
February 20, 2009 – DOES YOUR HORSE RESPECT YOU?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How do I know if my horse no longer respects me?
Reposted as separate article. See: Does My Horse Respect Me? article.
February 19, 2009 – MOUNTING A TALL HORSE
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How do I mount a horse that's taller than I am?
One of the cruel ironies of mounting horses is that shorter people are at a severe disadvantage compared to taller ones.
A tall person has longer legs, and so, the stirrups end up lower and closer to the ground.
Conversely, a shorter person has short legs meaning that the strirrups are shorter, and thusly, higher above the ground for the very person that can least afford the difference.
Fortunately, someone invented the mounting block.
Mounting blocks come in all sizes from one step to at least a four-step block (see photo below).
I found these two suppliers while answering a similar question last year:
Horseman's Depot in the USA and JSW Coachbuilders in the UK.
4-Step Mounting Block
Of course, if you're out on the trail, you need to be more creative (as of this writing, I haven't yet seen any collapsible, portable mounting blocks you can stash in your cantle bag :-)
So, if you must dismount, look first before doing so to determine if there might be a natural object with which you can easily remount.
Such objects might be a large rock, a stump or fallen tree high enough above the ground, a small hill beside which you can bring your horse, etc.
Another alternative is the extendable stirrup.
This is a device on one stirrup that can be extended down for mounting, and then slides back up for riding.
I've never seen one except in a catalog, so I don't know specifically how they work.
But a quick browse through a tack catalog or an inquiry at your local tack shop should set you up.
Finally, a riding buddy can help you mount in a pinch by boosting you up.
Of course, they then need to be able to mount without an assist.
I think this makes an excellent case for mandating that you only ride with tall riding buddies.
Or at minimum, assure that at least one tall riding buddy always accompanies your group when going out on the trail.
February 18, 2009 – BUMPER HITCH TO GOOSENECK CONVERSION?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is there any way to turn a bumper hitch into a gooseneck?
No, the different variety of hitches exist to handle different tow loads.
A bumper hitch describes hitches on or near a bumper.
A true bumper hitch is nothing more than a hitch ball mounted through the bumper and can only tow up to 2,000 pounds on most smaller pickup trucks — too small for any horse trailer.
Weight carrying hitches and weight distribution hitches can tow a much larger load because they're actually mounted to the tow vehicle's frame rather than the bumper, and can be used to tow two and three horse trailers.
Unfortunately, they too, are sometimes referred to as bumper hitches — this can be a source of confusion.
Goosenecks and fifth wheel hitches are the most heavy-duty of all and some can handle tow loads up to 30,000 pounds.
This allows them to haul up to ten-horse trailers or horse trailer/camper combinations.
There is no way to convert any form of bumper hitch to haul such large loads.
To have that ability, both goosenecks and fifth wheel hitches must be mounted through the center of the bed of large pickup trucks.
Hopefully, the foregoing helps explain why such a conversion is not possible, and why you wouldn't want to do it even if it was.
For more information, you may want to read an article I wrote explaining the different hitches in September 2008 entitled: Getting Properly Hitched.
February 17, 2009 – STOPPING WATER BUCKET FREEZING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Do you have any suggestions to keep my horse's water buckets from freezing in the colder weather?
I've seen three things that work.
One was a an insulated bucket holder that mounted on the stall wall.
The bucket comes with it and slides perfectly into the holder.
It's supposed to keep the water from freezing throughout the day.
Of course, that will be determined by both the temperature in the stall and the temperature of the water you place into the bucket.
The other two solutions are similar: one is a heated bucket holder and the other is a heater that you place into the horse's water bucket.
Both must be plugged into a power receptacle and work well — BUT, you must pay attention and regularly examine the heater, bucket, and power cord to assure that they remain in good condition and do not become a shock or electrocution hazard for your horses or you.
I don't have links available for any of these products, but your favorite tack catalog and tack shop should be able to help.
February 16, 2009 – GROWTH STOP
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
At what age does a horse stop growing?
The answer depends on the breed, the horse's feed and nutrition, and your specific horse.
Many horses stop growing somewhere between the ages of 4 - 6, though some have been known to grow until age 8.
But toward the latter part of the growth cycle, the rate of growth is usually much slower.
February 13, 2009 – WEAVING
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Why does my horse weave so much?
Weaving (moving the head back and forth and swaying the body left and right) is usually associated with stall boredom.
The boredom is typically caused by being stall-bound, prolonged separation from other horses, too little exercise, too little grazing time, and generally being unhappy.
Many equine experts ascribe the unhappiness to the stress of isolation and too little activity, and some are now also suspecting a possible genetic link, just as they are with cribbing.
As for your horse, try to assure he's getting adequate turnout each day and the companionship of at least one other horse in a paddock with adequate grazing in the summer and hay in the winter.
And, if he must remain in his stall due to weather conditions, such as icy ground or extreme cold outside, at least give him plenty of free-choice hay and lots of water to process it.
The addition of a stall toy or hanging grain ball may also help, but don't shortchange him the hay and water — he needs it.
February 12, 2009 – EQUINE EATING HABITS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Sometimes I bring a handful of grass or hay to my horse and with each mouthful, he jerks it away.
Why?
He does that because he's used to grabbing grass and tearing it away from the ground when he grazes.
Horses don't realize that hay or grass you hand them isn't connected at the base.
If you continue to do this, make sure your horse doesn't also accidentally grab your fingertips when he grabs a mouthful — that would hurt.
February 11, 2009 – THE LEAST HARSH BIT?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What is the least harsh bit to use?
The least harsh conventional bits are the thicker snaffles (a thin snaffle concentrates the pulling forces on a smaller area, and is therefore, more severe).
Snaffles are unleveraged bits with no port or curb chain.
There are also several "bitless" bridles.
BUT, "bitless" DOES NOT necessarilly mean less harsh.
For example, a hackamore is bitless and yet can be quite harsh, even dangerous if misused because it squeezes down on the cartiladge and nostrils of the horse.
There are other bridles that operate differently and are far less severe.
So, if you go this way, be sure to thoroughly investigate the type and method of operation of the bridle you're considering.
If in doubt, stick with a thicker snaffle.
But don't forget that, regardless of the bit or bridle you use, the actual harshness is dependant not only on the severity of the bit, but also on how the rider uses his/her reins.
Even a thick snaffle can be used harshly and a curb bit can be used gently.
All these factors combine at the horse's mouth to guide or hurt him.
February 10, 2009 – THE IMPORTANCE OF AVAILABLE DRINKING WATER
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Will a horse die if it has no water?
Of course it will!
Like humans, all animals need water; in fact, we all need it more than food.
The average human can only go about three days without water, but a week without food if water is available.
Of course, heat, exertion, and other aspects come into the equation, but you understand the idea.
Horses may be able to go longer without water than humans can, but they still need it and the amount of time between drinking spells is determined by the aforementioned variables of heat and exertion.
Also, because horses drink a lot of water at a time, many owners rarely see their horses drink, but rest assured that they do and that they need to do so.
The average horse drinks from 10 - 30 gallons of water each day depending upon activity and the season.
They usually drink more water in summer and winter.
Surprised about winter drinking?
It's especially important to be sure their water isn't frozen and that surface ice gets removed regulalrly throughout the day.
So, make sure your horse always has clean, fresh water available when you leave him out in his paddock in the morning and in his stall at night.
And call the vet if you ever leave water and notice that your horse isn't drinking it — that may mean something is wrong and should be immediately investigated.
February 9, 2009 – COMPREHENSIVE ARTICLE ABOUT BARN LIGHTING
As regular readers may have noticed, I get a lot of questions about barn lighting and related costs.
While my responses are focused on each submitter's question, there's always more I'd like to say that I feel would be helpful.
So I've written a more comprehensive treatment of the subject that is published in this month's February issue of Practical Horseman magazine and is also posted her for your convenience at Better Barn Lighting.
February 6, 2009 – HOW LONG BETWEEN SHOE CHANGES IN THE WINTER?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
How long can my horse's shoes stay on in the winter?
Can I leave them on longer than in the summer?
This varies for each horse.
A horse's hooves, and even their coats, grow fastest in the spring and fall (though they're growing summer coats in the spring and winter coats in the fall).
In general, it seems most horses can go about six weeks between farrier visits.
That can mean shorter periods between visits in spring and fall and longer periods in summer and winter — you and your farrier need to regularly monitor your horse's feet.
Some horses need more frequent farrier visits because their hooves grow faster than the average horse while other horses need them less frequently than average.
Also, the competency of the farrier can make a difference with a shorter time between visits being necessary with poorer foot care.
The Horse Girl has mentioned in several of her responses about the value of a good farrier in maintaining optimal foot care because good foot/hoof health in all horses is so important, and she's right.
This means that compromising on your horse's foot care is not a good place to try to save money — don't do it — save on the cost of treats, toys, or showing instead.
February 5, 2009 – CROSS TRAILER SAFETY CHAINS?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Should I cross the chains when connecting my horse trailer?
I'm getting conflicting advice.
Yes, cross the chains.
The reason is that if your coupler were ever to come up off the hitch ball, the chains can catch the hitch and support it above the ground while you stop.
Otherwise, the hitch could drop to the ground and possibly cause you to lose control.
I also received and answered this question last summer and started a list of recurring trailer/towing questions.
You can see them at: Common Trailering Questions article.
February 4, 2009 – CFL BULBS TO LIGHT A STALL?
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
Is it ok to use the new CFL bulbs in a horse stall?
Yes!
In fact, it's smarter than using conventional bulbs because CFLs (Compact Fluorescent Lights) use much less electricity and last ten times longer.
That means you won't have to replace them as often, which saves you still more money as well as the hassle of changing them.
One word of warning, regardless of the bulbs you use, make sure that all light fixtures in your barn are high enough that your horses can't accidentally bang against them if they rear up for any reason.
And if there's any chance a fixture could get sprayed or dripped upon, be sure to use a fully enclosed fixture in that location, such as a vapor-proof fixture.
February 3, 2009 – THIN, LIGHT, CLOTHING INSULATION
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What is the name of the new, thin clothing material that keeps one warm?
There are several synthetic clothing materials that are light, thin, and warm.
As to which are new, that depends on what you mean by "new". Do you truly mean a new product of the last few years? What about in the last 20 or 30 years?
Regardless, I'll list some very effective clothing insulators and you can take your choice.
From my reading and my own experience, Thinsulate is one of the very best of these materials, even though it's been around for the last 30 years.
It's one of the lightest insulation materials for clothing on the market, is very durable, and even crushproof.
In addition, unlike most materials, it's like wool in that it retains warmth even when wet.
Another very good material is polar fleece (one famous brand of which is called Polartec).
This material is also about 30 years old and similar in characteristics; it even lets water vapor pass through so you stay dryer, and for that reason, is used in many horse coolers for keeping them warm while they dry and cool down.
One thing to be careful about is that it can be damaged by washing in very hot water and not quite as hardy.
One of the above two materials is probably the product you're looking for and I have garments made of both that I use for winter riding — I'm very happy with them!
There are other thin, insulation materials, but they're less common.
I presume you asked this question related to keeping warm while riding?
If so, another product I like is Primaloft.
This is a synthetic down-like material that is not thin, but it is one of the very warmest for its weight and retains warmth when wet.
And don't forget actual goose-down which is more expensive.
That's because it's still the warmest material available and the one in my winter riding coat.
It's not as effective when wet, but my coat's liner is made of Goretex™ so that the down remains dry, even in a driving rain.
The foregoing illustrates that there is no perfect product, but lots of very good ones that get even better when combined.
February 2, 2009 – SORE FEET
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
My horse doesn't like walking on hard ground when I ride him.
What should I do?
Reposted as separate article. See: Sore Feet & Hard Ground article.
January 30, 2009 – LEANING ON HILLS
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
I was criticized recently on a trail ride because another rider said I wasn't leaning enough on hills.
How far is enough?
This question crops up again and again in different forms.
It seems there is lots of confusion on why to lean, when to lean, and how far.
This issue is more a question of physics and balance than anything else and the goal is to stay over the horse's center of gravity so as to not make the up or downhill stretch any harder for the horse than it needs to be.
Because this question shows up recurringly, I wrote an article on the topic last year entitled: Leaning When on Hills — Check it out.
January 29, 2009 – BREAKAWAY HALTER
"Horse Guy" question/feedback:
What is a breakaway halter?